Built HR *Broken Cam* Part 2
04-06-2011, 02:54 PM
#1
Built HR *Broken Cam* Part 2
For Some reason someone decided to close the thread. I wonder who
Main information is in here:
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...roken-cam.html
ORIGINAL POST:
Here are some more pics of last night. Ill upload more later
Main information is in here:
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...roken-cam.html
ORIGINAL POST:
Some may and some may not know, but my possessed Z broke a camshaft. Don't ask how I do not know. I have talked to several well knowledge sources and I have my ideas, but will not speculate till the motors stripped down.
Ill keep some updated info in this thread as progress is made at
WIN Motorsportz (In affiliation with Redline Design)
Ill keep updated pictures and answer questions if anyone has any.
Backround on this motor. Built by Engine Lab/S&R Performance
CP Pistons
BC Springs and Retainers
5 Angle Valve Job
GTM H Beam Rods
HKS Head Gaskets
One of a kind Closed Deck Block
ARP Head Bolts
Everything Cryo Treated
Factory Cams(When the motor was built none were available)
HKS Twins with Forge Motorsports Wastegate's
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This car started out well over a year ago after being one of the very few stock block HR's to Blow. It snapped a rod in two at 500whp in less than 3k miles. The motor was then built at Engine lab and S&R Performance. Since has had many issues. Leaking turbo lines, boost leaks, ecu failures, sensor failures, wiring failuers. Ill be honest im surprised I still own a boosted Z after the headaches and money I have spent on this vehicle. Then everything started to work out I put about 7k miles on this motor then one day...Snap. The car sounded like a V8 after looking into it the Intake valves on the Bank 2(driver side) were not opening. Took the Cam cover off to find the pully still tight. You can turn the motor over with the bolt that goes through the center of the cam gear, but the cam does not rotate. So only possibility broken cam. If the key had broke then turning the bolt in the center would still make the cam rotate if not atleast move, but no such luck. So motors now out at WIN Motorsportz and should start to be stripped down here in the next week. I will try to keep this thread updated.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Ill keep some updated info in this thread as progress is made at
WIN Motorsportz (In affiliation with Redline Design)
Ill keep updated pictures and answer questions if anyone has any.
Backround on this motor. Built by Engine Lab/S&R Performance
CP Pistons
BC Springs and Retainers
5 Angle Valve Job
GTM H Beam Rods
HKS Head Gaskets
One of a kind Closed Deck Block
ARP Head Bolts
Everything Cryo Treated
Factory Cams(When the motor was built none were available)
HKS Twins with Forge Motorsports Wastegate's
--------------------------------------------------------------------
This car started out well over a year ago after being one of the very few stock block HR's to Blow. It snapped a rod in two at 500whp in less than 3k miles. The motor was then built at Engine lab and S&R Performance. Since has had many issues. Leaking turbo lines, boost leaks, ecu failures, sensor failures, wiring failuers. Ill be honest im surprised I still own a boosted Z after the headaches and money I have spent on this vehicle. Then everything started to work out I put about 7k miles on this motor then one day...Snap. The car sounded like a V8 after looking into it the Intake valves on the Bank 2(driver side) were not opening. Took the Cam cover off to find the pully still tight. You can turn the motor over with the bolt that goes through the center of the cam gear, but the cam does not rotate. So only possibility broken cam. If the key had broke then turning the bolt in the center would still make the cam rotate if not atleast move, but no such luck. So motors now out at WIN Motorsportz and should start to be stripped down here in the next week. I will try to keep this thread updated.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Here are some more pics of last night. Ill upload more later
Last edited by ehsan; 04-06-2011 at 05:29 PM.
04-06-2011, 03:08 PM
#2
What was the reason for the installation of BC valve springs with stock cams? Was the redline raised above stock? Also, were these aftermarket valve springs at the request of the customer or the recommendation of the shop who built the motor/sold the parts?
04-06-2011, 04:52 PM
#4
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I just noticed on the third picture down you can see were there are more threads in the cam after the snap point. I know some one asked about that in the previous thread. It was thought originally to have been at the end of the threads.
04-06-2011, 05:24 PM
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BC Springs and retainers were installed as a security measure. It was at the suggestion of the shop since we had to send the heads out for work anyway.
The bearing surface is clean. Nothing to really speak of. They are good for the new cams to be installed.
Correct the cam still had more threads. I am unsure how many until I get back over there. It is normal practice for things to be deaper and have more threads. You never would want the bolt to bottom out that could cause major stress.
The bearing surface is clean. Nothing to really speak of. They are good for the new cams to be installed.
Correct the cam still had more threads. I am unsure how many until I get back over there. It is normal practice for things to be deaper and have more threads. You never would want the bolt to bottom out that could cause major stress.
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04-06-2011, 05:38 PM
#8
IMO aftermarket valve springs seem completely unnecessary on stock cams unless the redline is being raised. Just curious as to what you were told and what the logic and/or thought process was...
04-06-2011, 05:59 PM
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I do not remember the conversation. Its been a long bumpy road and the Springs were my last thing on my mind. Im pretty sure it was done just as a safety against breaking either part. Im just being honest Its been a long time...
04-06-2011, 06:27 PM
#11
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No, It was tuned at normal redline and thats how its been driven.
Its been almost 3 years for me and Boost so I feel the same way. One day it will all be worth it!
Its been almost 3 years for me and Boost so I feel the same way. One day it will all be worth it!
Last edited by Jasonvs2146; 04-06-2011 at 06:29 PM.
04-06-2011, 07:04 PM
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well, you can tell they threaded it down further during the machining process, but the bolt doesnt reach in that far.
04-06-2011, 07:15 PM
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Agreed and its done this way due to the expansion and contraction due to heat and also the difference in washers and such being installed. The last thing they want it the bolt to bottom out in the cam and not be tight.
04-07-2011, 05:40 AM
#16
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a few years back I had an issue with a certain companies cams, something similar to this and what was done is that the hole was actually drilled and tapped for a longer, bigger bolt. It worked great and never brought up another issue. They've corrected that since then but it worked great for the people that had issues. Is that possible with these? I'm not personally familiar with them enough to know.
-Marti
-Marti
Last edited by S&R Performance; 04-07-2011 at 06:13 AM.
04-07-2011, 06:31 AM
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yeah, the sheer strength on that pin is going to be greater that the cast piece. especially where the break on that cam is. nissan already 'weakened' that spot by drilling in the oil holes
04-07-2011, 06:58 AM
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the hole is necessary, that's the underlying problem. a longer machined thread and a longer bolt would ultimately block off that portion of the lubrication. seems to me that the only real remedy is to run stronger-built aftermarket cams.