f150intally

iTrader: (1)

I will probably run a 245 or 255. I think I'm going to go ahead and order the Quaiffe while I'm in this mod mood.

ace32x

iTrader: (10)

dooo it

f150intally

iTrader: (1)

Done. Got a good deal from THMotorsports. Picking up carrier bearings at the local dealer. They matched courtesy nissan's price.

ace32x

iTrader: (10)

ur gonna love it! diff was my favorite mod i did to my Z , i did a kazz 2 way though

Resmarted

iTrader: (2)

people have run 315's on an 8.5" but those are drag radial only stuffs

285 esp nittos are fine on 8.5 or 8 inch, 275 is totally safe.

Rank:
1/2 Tires
1/2 Brakes
3 wheels
4 lsd
You can only stop as good as your coefficient of static friction (which is a function of how sticky your tires are), but if you don't have enough clamping power you can't stop fast enough. I'll be running stock brakes for a while (with some pretty good weight reduction)... gonna be pretty sketch, but that's number one on the list after the car is running. I already have r888's 305 on a 10.5" in the rear so

Reason I say brakes+tires>lsd/wheels: safety first. Who care's how flush yo sh*t is if it's wrapped around a tree.

And welding/widening wheels is FINE dik. The wheels are always rebalanced afterward, and as long as the welder isn't a dumbfawk there won't be any issues. Many times welds can be stronger than the surrounding material.

If F150 wants a fatter tire and an oem look, widening is not a bad idea. If he has it done right it could actually be pretty flush.

f150intally

iTrader: (1)

Resmarted, what kind of racing do you do? I am going to do brakes last because this will be some spirited driving but mostly I am a drag racer so I think I will be fine since I won't be abusing my brakes on a road coarse. I will have to be careful though until I get my bbk.

binder

iTrader: (8)

stock tiny brakes on these cars is plenty for drag racing. The base brakes are 11.7 on the DE's and i think larger than that on the HR's so you'll be fine.

Resmarted

iTrader: (2)

I drive on the street, I don't race

It does make a difference what speeds you are reaching, and what power levels you are going to make...
I'm going to run a 7175 billet turbo somewhere near 30psi so my 'closed track' speeds won't exactly be normal. If it's a street car you should be ok for the most part unless you do high speed closed track roll ons etc... If you were planning on any tracking then brakes should be high on the list (I think everyone will agree on that).
Side note, with my auto diff I figured the car will have 210mph @ 7.1krpm in 6th... ***** :O

f150intally

iTrader: (1)

I'm pretty fired up! John Parham from Z1 called me yesterday to give an update on the build. The car is done short of a tune. As soon as John gets a base map from GTM, he is going to complete the tuning. They are installing the two-step and no-lift shift from KP technologies today.

I really wish I could be there for the tuning this weekend but family comes first at my house and being that I'm picking the car up next weekend I can't be there this weekend. The wheels came in yesterday and the Quaiffe will be here today. The 285s will be here Monday so I'm going to have a buddy mount those and throw them in the back of my truck so we can put them on at the shop.

Anyways, thanks for the support. I'm Stoked! I do have one question, being that I'm going to have quite a gap in my fenders, for occasional drag use and just spirited driving, should I consider modestly dropped springs? Suspension is an area I know least about so give me some advice here. I have read the FAQs and it looks like I would need toe bolts and camber kits front and rear with any springs under an inch of drop. At what point do you call it a day and go with coilovers? I want a soft ride and plenty of squat for drag launches. Being able to easily adjust rear camber at the track. Would coilovers give me that ability?

ace32x

iTrader: (10)

if your going with a spring the eibach pro kit is around an inch drop, and for adjustability you could do the SPL camber links and rear traction links for all ur adjustability. or if u want more than an inch id go with the a true coil over the rear SPL camber links and and rear toe links for full adjustability

f150intally

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Ace. Based on what I have gathered, with coilovers I still need rear adjustment links and toe bolts. Is that right? Also, are there coilovers out there that are only marginally stiffer than stock springs? I don't want an a$$ kicking everytime I ride in the car, especially for the wifey

binder

iTrader: (8)

dont forget camber arms in the front. i dropped mine 1" and the front camber went crazy. I have kinetix front camber arms. 3 yrs strong and work perfectly. I re-grease them (via grease zurks) about twice a year and so far it's never made a squeak.

ace32x

iTrader: (10)

umm, u can pick ur spring rates stock vs stiff (id suggest the stiff ones) and if u go to a coil over u need toe links but if u do a lowering spring or a not true coil over ull need the traction links. if u want to spend a little extra you could get some teins and they have an EDC (Coil stiffness adjustable in car with a button can soften them or stiffen em) with an HR i dont think he needs the adjustment up front they have a different steering rack then the DE's and have a little more adjustment. mines dumped on stance GR +'s and i had enough adjustment so my camber wasnt messed up in the front

f150intally

iTrader: (1)

Guys, I have been bit hard and it hurts. Bit by the modification bug.... everything on the list will be complete (except LSD) when I pick the car up Saturday. I was going to wait but then its like why am I waiting. I won't be happy till its all done and I can get my life back and quite researching everything to the 10th degree. So I spoke to John @ Z1 this morning and he is installing the Akebono brake upgrade complete with stainless lines and 40th Anniversary Red calipers. While their at it they are going to install Tein H Tech springs to provide a modest drop. So in the last week and in addition to the twin turbos I have also added:

1. Quaiffe
2. Akebono Brakes
3. Tein H Tech to lower
4. Enkei PF01 Wheels
5. Nitto Tires
6. what else is there?

So here is the complete list:

1. GTM Stage 2 TT Kit for HR
2. GTM 3" Downpipes and Recirculation (Externally Waste Gated)
3. GTM 3" Exhaust
4. OSIRIS Uprev ECU programming
5. Deatchworks 600cc Fuel Injectors
6. Walbro 255 l/h Fuel Pump
7. OS Giken Twin Disc Clutch
8. Heavy Duty CSC with Stainless Clutch Line
9. Complete Defi Gauge Setup (boost, oil press, water temp, wideband a/f)
10. Blitz Boost Controller
11. KP Technologies Two-step & No Lift Shift
12. Quaiffe LSD
13. 40th Anniversary Red Akebono BBK, Stainless lines, cross drilled/slotted rotors
14. Enkei PF01 18x9.5 +15 on all four corners
15. Tein H Tech Lowering Springs
16. Nitto NT555 285-40-18 Tires

Any other suggestions while I'm at it? I just want to thank John, Will, Russel, and the whole crew at Z1 Motorsports in Carollton, GA for convincing me to spend all this money. I can't even fathom what this transformation is going to feel like when I drive it off from the shop.

If this doesn't get you pumped up, you don't have a pulse.

Thanks.
Jay

dikspiel

iTrader: (70)

if you don't plan on building the motor i would suggest the stage 1 setup with the .64 a/r

f150intally

iTrader: (1)

Too late for that. Everything is already installed. I bought the stage two with upgrade ability in mind. I should be able to do the return fuel system, twin pump, built motor, and reprogram to achieve close to 600+whp. As a matter of fact, at the shop I rode in a G35 that was making 700+ whp and tuned with 800cc injectors and OSIRIS, The car was sick!

dikspiel

iTrader: (70)

^i wish i had gone with the stage 2..i guess when i get bored of 500-550whp ill upgrade to the stage 3 or 4.

John@z1

iTrader: (2)

Yeah I think we hold the Osiris record at the moment 724rwhp on a 3.5liter.

midz350

iTrader: (4)

With stg2 on stock block, the car pulls like crazy up top.

Stage 2 + brake boost = WIN.

ace32x

iTrader: (10)

did you have an ignition amplifier? some people say you need them when running osiris past mid 600's. im about to tune mine for high 6xx/ low 700's what ever it flows and was curious about the ignition and spark since you cant adjust the dwell settings