str8dum1

iTrader: (11)

WRT to TC on the dyno, Binder is right, If you dont turn it off, your TB will close down until it faults out. Then the car will run on the dyno.

Your haltech is controlling all the fuel and spark, so there would be no reduction in timing to lose power. And once the TC faulted out so you could even make 1 pull, its off until the car is restarted.

Try running your car on jack stands, it wont go.

djamps

iTrader: (1)

I freaked out a little at the christmas tree on the dash the first time I sat in my car during a dyno pull.

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

well im gona take it back after some issues at work that are taking my full attention get handled but a different dyno. plus a retune, was actually talking to someone else and the day after me about 8 or 9 srt-4s where getting tuned, and according to several source who where actually there the dyno runs low.... real low. im hearing a couple that have made 400 range on two other dyno's(including a different dynojet) made under 300 on that dyno so idk will see when i can get back. if thats the case the fuel isnt too bad off and should be pretty close in a couple more pulls, but imho i think they are full of it because that wouldnt make sense in the rest of the power band, although i would like to know why the dyno reads 6400 when the engine hit much higher.

konrad

iTrader: (15)

jerry the denaturated alcochol and the xyline , dont mind my spelling. Is that the same stuff you can get at home depot/lowes??

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

yah xylol is the name of the xylene though but same thing just a name brand.

binder

iTrader: (8)

Jerry, those guys saying the dyno reads that low is strange. Makes me think if that is true that the dyno setup is off. I know when you use rpm the tach settings on a dyno jet can be wrong and give a wrong rpm reading which will throw off dyno numbers big time.

In your case that would be backwards though. Usually when the rpm range is reduced (say the dyno shows you are at 6000rpms and the car is really at 6500) the dyno numbers will be high. This was the issue on the dynojet I used. The first pull it was set up incorrectly on the rpm range and showed I pulled 780tq. I set it to speed instead of rpm and it went back to normal. I had the tuner adjust the rpm range to suit my car and everything went back to normal.

So maybe that was an issue and the car was really reving out just fine. I would tell him to do it by speed and see if that makes a difference since you have no problems reving past 6400 on the street.

konrad

iTrader: (15)

going back to the fuel, you said you would get 98 octane with a galon of xylol with every fill up. I was thinking let's say the tank is 15g. So (14*93)+(1*117)/15= 94.3 octane if xylol is 117 octane that's r+m/2 or em I missing something?

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

no your correct but i calculated it with 12+3 vs the 14+1 you are which ends with 97.8 octane for 7.28 a gallon or i can get locally denatured alcohol and wind up with 98.4 octane for 6.28 but at a slightly higher fuel consumption.

apparently a little less though since i guess premium here is actually 92 octane not 93 i apparently cannot read for months on end

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

cars going back on the dyno monday at 1030 local, btw jeff that problem i mentioned, apparently i blew out a solid copper three bolt gasket. high boost it grew enough for a leak i imagine and after a min or two it shrank back down.

Resmarted

iTrader: (2)

be-careful with that xylene stuff, I had a friend who ran it in his car often and a large amount and it killed his fuel lines and we think his pump too.

have you checked out torco accelerator? they make a nice non leaded mix, not terribly expensive, seems to work well and doesn't really harm o2 sensors. I plan on running it should I not make the power I want with water (which admittedly has a fair chance).


And on the dyno thing, to me it does sound (as binder said) as if the dyno's setup wrong. If you pull out that far fine on the street, unless they have some crazy load settings (not sure if its dj dd or whatever), that sound's rather asinine.

binder

iTrader: (8)

blew out a solid one?!? dang! I haven't had any issues since I switched to the solid ones.

I use copper gasket sealer as well to make them nice and sticky. I start with them all snug and then tighten down the top one and the one closest to the trans then fully tighten the outside one last. That seemed to work best for me and I haven't had a leak since.

Last night at 20psi I blew the first charge pump off (right from the compressor) and it drug the ground for quite some time on the way home. I tried to get it to stay up a few times but there was nothing to hold it and my car was too low to pull it out from under the car. So now sasha is going to make me a new pipe because the ground wore a hole all the way through the pipe. The cause: stripped t-bolt clamp on the compressor. Don't know how that happened after 2 years but I guess it did!

Resmarted: at the levels he is going to run the xylene I don't think it should harm his upgraded fuel system. I have run up to 100% xylene in our race bikes OEM fuel systems with no issues for years. Not that an oem car system could handle that I think his aftermarket lines will be ok with his lower level. At least in theory and from the results I have previously had with it. I think the older rubber based lines had a huge problem with it not the newer teflon coating.

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

xylene is already in gasoline =P and i did i just happen to know that people have tested torco + 93 and havnt even gotten a full octane increase per lab tests. soooooo no reason for it the leaded one is the only one worthwhile. its 20 bucks local for a quart......... xylene is 17 a gallon if i decide to run it(so far denatured alcohol give me 26 lbs of boost no det so until i upgrade tires i dont even need it......... they sometimes spin in 4th even.)

honestly with the new compounds it shouldnt be a issue i would be more worried about dirt and crap in the pump fuel then anything.

Resmarted

iTrader: (2)

I've considered it too, as you can get it in huge quantities, but IMHO not something I would do.
Just check your lines often and fuel filters.
Yeah it's in gasoline, alongside a ton of other garbage you shouldn't add in lolol

Your car your choice! If it works for you fine, then great.

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

just a update ill post the dyno when i get home and also after i convert the numbers clutch is slipping at 600 ft lbs torque roughly. got 581 out of it still rich but gotta be close now might hit 600 to the wheels now but everytime i pull fuel and redyno i loose 200-300 rpms before slipage again. dyno had issues with spark signal so torque is funky but a new clutch and im gona easily hit 650 to the wheels.

what store wants to sponsor me with a new clutch and have there name on my car hahah

binder

iTrader: (8)

did you just do pulls with speed instead of RPM? that's what I had to do in order to get accurate numbers since the rpm pickup was off. Depending the range on rpm they program it can make your numbers way off. My first pull showed 780 ft lbs of torque and I knew that wasn't correct since it was at 18psi.

I'm excited to see your numbers. What clutch are you running again? Was that 581 tq or hp you are talking about?

I love my carbonetics triple. Smooth engagement and should hold anything i throw at it. Rich has had good power results with his spec twin disk and they are only like 1100$ new.

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

annnndddddddd new dyno


this is 5th gear did that to verify it was clutch first run was 557 so the previous dyno was good just was having issues with ignition pickup same as this one which is why we did it based on speed. apparently thats why the torque is screwed up but doing the calculations where it initially slipped is 601 ft lbs torque at 4800 rpms, where it made 587 it pegged max rich(im seriously down to only 5 cells that need work at wot now) again so i pulled more fuel so its easily over 600 to the wheels but no use running it more when the clutch wont hold it.

sorry for it being sideways idk why its correctly displayed on photobucket...........

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

jeff ill prob run it this way until tax time i emailed south bend because the clutch is the stage 5 feramic(which oddly you can still purchase from concept z but no longer is listed on southbends site.) full face ill see what they say.

i really dont wanna pull the clutch again so this time ill prob just throw the carbonetics triple in is and call it good, gona put a hold on my cable TB project and rewiring though >.< mad because i already have a bunch of wire, switchs, and the TB otw just need the throttle cable and relays and guages(prob the gps racepak for the haltech

binder

iTrader: (8)

Something is way wrong with the setup of that graph. When using mph the torque will never me screwed up. With an rpm pickup it can be very skewed which is why you see quite a few speed based. Speed based is straight that speed based. It's hard to fake that the wheels aren't spinning as fast as they are unless someone has screwed up the gear calculations in the dyno software.

that shows you spiked to 1500ftlbs of tq which doesn't make sense if the clutch is slipping. When mine slipped it dropped the tq.

hp curve looks good minus the slip up top.

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

not sure, the rpm pickup WAS hooked up though and he initially attempted rpm based but then clicked a menu button in the chart section and switched it over to speed. he claimed it still showed the messed up torque because the computer couldnt correctly pickup the ignition signal, dosnt make much sense to me since torque is supposed to be a simple reading not any sort of calculation but its a pretty reputable shop here on island on of the two "go to" place so i take his word for it, im not really sure how dynojet measures things to be completely honest.

this is a different dynojet and shop from the previous dyno though

i will say i dint wanna leave though, the 3 supra's (two with 67mm turbos one with 88mm), twin turbo viper, and 71mm turbo rx7 made me wanna just sit and stare. thats not even looking at the sr20's and rb26 he had on engine stands in the back or the various other cars it was like paradise lol.

also from what im being told is even though he runs std correction vs the sae dyno of the other he has it calibrated to put out numbers similar to a DD, this isnt what the owner told me but what other have told me not sure how much truth there is to that.

binder

iTrader: (8)

Hmm, the ignition signal is not used with speed based. After mine was screwed up I did it speed based for a while while the owner was trying to figure out what went wrong with the settings of the rpm signal. With speed based everything was perfectly fine and the ignition clamp wasn't even on my car. It's not needed at all.

It looks like he is using the signal but it shows rpms. So it's almost like he left the bad signal set up for calculating the hp/tq but he just switched it to display rpm instead.

Only thing that would screw up the speed based would be wheel slip on the dyno but then it would cause dips in the hp/tq and not spikes.

This tuner sounds like he doesn't know how to set up the dyno if he thought just changing the labels on the plot changes the things used to calculate hp/tq.