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Old 02-01-2013, 11:24 AM
  #361  
jerryd87
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definitely need to update some pics, been busy with appointments trying to get my permanent profile for my messed up knees. anyway sent the turbo out for 1.32 AR exhuast housing and 66mm exhuast wheel however in transit this happened.

not sure if it happened while shipping(amazing if it did it was wrapped tightly in bubble wrap with foam on the top and bottom then the box was put in a second box with more bubble wrap) or at precision. they had already finished the work when it was noticed so neither did they. great customer service though because they replaced it for free, they dint have any e covers though so i went with the sp cover, supposedly it should give me about 4 or 5% more power at max boost(32 psi when clutch is broken in if the turbo supports it)

massive 1.32 divided hot side, its so big i actually had to loosen the bolts, mount the turbo to clock it, then take it back down to tighten the bolts.



can see the standard bp kit will fit the sp cover but requires a little finagling i can move the pipe around to get about a inch of spacer between them


finally i ditched my direct port meth kit(which is still for sale btw) and went with a modified rev up intake to try and right shift power, this pic isnt final i blended the epoxy after this before mounting.


overall just from driving around it seems i have right shifted the power about 500 rpms or so without cams but ill need to put it on the dyno to verify first. breaking in the clutch so im just running the wastegate pressure of 15 psi atm.
Old 02-01-2013, 12:37 PM
  #362  
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That's an interesting intake mod. I don't think I'd have the ***** to try chopping up the runners like that, but I'm interested to see what results you find.
Old 02-01-2013, 01:30 PM
  #363  
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yah lol they where alot thicker then i thought pretty rediculous like a inch thick. i wish i had a mill so i could have been able to get them perfect length and volume vs each other but no funds for a mill big enough lol nor anywhere to put it. just drawing on my knowledge of long runners smaller plenum= torque and short runner's big plenum = hp.

runners only are about 3.5-4 inchs on the large radius side outside of the lower intake so was able to cut them roughly in half and a good 9-12 inchs less then the kinetix i was running. ive essentially increased the plenum volume as well, and the pillars that come down from the upper plenum that the bolts go though i cut off as well and plugged. no pics of the inside though but both mods combined should have given me a decent amount of extra plenum volume, close if not as much as a plenum spacer. not sure if it will see the same benefit as raising the roof of the plenum though i should have can it through open foam but was lazy and more concerned with rightshifting the power band for traction then making optimum power
Old 02-01-2013, 02:05 PM
  #364  
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Originally Posted by jerryd87
yah lol they where alot thicker then i thought pretty rediculous like a inch thick. i wish i had a mill so i could have been able to get them perfect length and volume vs each other but no funds for a mill big enough lol nor anywhere to put it. just drawing on my knowledge of long runners smaller plenum= torque and short runner's big plenum = hp.

runners only are about 3.5-4 inchs on the large radius side outside of the lower intake so was able to cut them roughly in half and a good 9-12 inchs less then the kinetix i was running. ive essentially increased the plenum volume as well, and the pillars that come down from the upper plenum that the bolts go though i cut off as well and plugged. no pics of the inside though but both mods combined should have given me a decent amount of extra plenum volume, close if not as much as a plenum spacer. not sure if it will see the same benefit as raising the roof of the plenum though i should have can it through open foam but was lazy and more concerned with rightshifting the power band for traction then making optimum power
Yep they'll definitely help up top. I'd just be worried because the runners were designed to be un-equal length to help ensure the air flows into the cylinders more correctly.

If it works well for you, I'm sure I'll probably do it down the road. This with my 1/2" spacer, long tubes and 272's would probably flow up top like a champ.
Old 02-01-2013, 06:32 PM
  #365  
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That is a large turbine...but you could have done the same things with a much smaller T3 . The SP compressor cover does fit without issues..just have to cut the first pipe by about one inch, and that is no big deal.

The intake pipe is a bit more complex (although still simple), and I use a 4"x3.5" 90deg silicone reducer coupler on those for the big builds. You can also use a 4"x3.0" 90 deg reducer as well if the intake piping is 3"

Last edited by Boosted Performance; 02-01-2013 at 06:33 PM.
Old 02-01-2013, 08:33 PM
  #366  
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I have nothing constructive to add except I have always used the SP cover on my 6765.
Old 02-01-2013, 10:22 PM
  #367  
jerryd87
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yah it wasnt anything major currently i have a 3.0x4.0 90 degree coupler because i dint realise the pipe was 3.5 so i cut it. although i have the proper 90 coming in.
i havnt had to cut anything just required a little bit of wiggling lol, hopefully by the end of the month i will be able to dyno it just waiting to break in the clutch. i was heavily considering a qsv but that would require me to do cams too for traction or drag radials either 275/50/17 or 325/45/17 not sure which. might need it anyway at the power im expecting
Old 02-02-2013, 03:10 AM
  #368  
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With the configuration you have there now, you should end up making more power than anybody else with this kit...by a good margin as well. Can't remember what clutch you have...that may be the weak spot now.
Old 02-02-2013, 06:15 AM
  #369  
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305/40 drag radials don't hold very well with my 650hp. 2nd gear is useless and 3rd spins like crazy even after the tires are warmed. On a prepped track I'm sure they will be ok but the street is slippery.

I have some 16" bias ply drag tires that hook well. Gotta get that fatty sidewall!
Old 02-02-2013, 10:21 AM
  #370  
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clutch is a custom 6 puck southbend assures me will break the trans before it slips and i currently have 305/35/18 toyo r888's and they decent minus first for the most part 325/45/17s are prob gona be the way to go that will give me an extra 2.5 inchs of sidewall plus the extra width
Old 02-02-2013, 11:08 AM
  #371  
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Have you guys tried using any boost by speed and wheelspin based ignition retard?
Old 02-02-2013, 11:29 AM
  #372  
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i had mine setup by boost by rpm since im ditching the stock ecu so i wont be able to do that. thats probably why im able to hook up as decently as i do. ecu needs to def be retuned now though with the mods.
Old 02-02-2013, 12:10 PM
  #373  
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I think you will find boost by rpm too slow to be helpful for traction control. Ignition retard based on wheel slip is the way to go, along with a reasonable wheel speed by boost map.

That plenum mod has been tried before by Jeremy (from AAM, then Performance Factory) and as I recall it did make top end power but killed power everywhere else. Might be fine with a big turbo though and help traction to boot. I think I have a spare rev up - pm me if you want it to play with, for shipping cost.

Last edited by rcdash; 02-02-2013 at 12:11 PM.
Old 02-02-2013, 12:19 PM
  #374  
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yah if i have to ill go that way but im trying to avoid it since i am trying to eliminate the factory can system, the new ipdm i got is failing too(well it was used) which means either going with aem infinity or pro efi i think should be able to do it if i remember the software correctly.

ill be playing around a little and since konrad has the qsv for sale for cheap i might see what combo works best.............. i have a feeling at the end im going to end up with cams, qsv, big *** drag radials, and a very upset wife =P

ignition based traction control would likely eliminate what wheel spin i do have but ill have to see whats still in the market place when taxs come in.

dint realize someone had already tried it sounds like its going to give me exactly what im looking for though cant wait to get it on the dyno

Last edited by jerryd87; 02-02-2013 at 12:21 PM.
Old 02-02-2013, 02:03 PM
  #375  
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Originally Posted by jerryd87
yah if i have to ill go that way but im trying to avoid it since i am trying to eliminate the factory can system, the new ipdm i got is failing too(well it was used) which means either going with aem infinity or pro efi i think should be able to do it if i remember the software correctly.

ill be playing around a little and since konrad has the qsv for sale for cheap i might see what combo works best.............. i have a feeling at the end im going to end up with cams, qsv, big *** drag radials, and a very upset wife =P

ignition based traction control would likely eliminate what wheel spin i do have but ill have to see whats still in the market place when taxs come in.

dint realize someone had already tried it sounds like its going to give me exactly what im looking for though cant wait to get it on the dyno
May have to do this after I get the car running, and before the final dyno tuning happens! Everything else on the car is setup to go to max rpm so why the hell not!

Oh and jerry dont you have haltech? The haltech can use the factory abs sensors to determine wheelslip (speed differences between the front and rear wheels). That being said didn't you remove the factory abs??
Old 02-02-2013, 03:02 PM
  #376  
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i havnt removed it yet but it will be gone soon i just need to finish the new cluster first and abs, all the stock guage stuff and the stock ecu will be removed.

i do have the haltech but since it reads wheel slip over the can system i would have to wire in the speed sensors into a ecu like pro efi or aem infinity although the infinity is kinda hard to get ahold of at the moment and there was a pro efi 128 in the marketplace...............
Old 02-02-2013, 05:38 PM
  #377  
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I set mine up for boost by speed and used ignition retard for wheel slip.

Works ok but the downfall if I wanted only 500hp in the midrange then I would just tune for that. I tuned for 650 because I want 650.....therefore I want to do whatever to get 650 to the ground and not retard timing to take my 650 down to 550.
Old 02-03-2013, 12:59 PM
  #378  
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the VQ firmware for the proefi also reads over the CAN. So it wont work either.

Originally Posted by jerryd87
i havnt removed it yet but it will be gone soon i just need to finish the new cluster first and abs, all the stock guage stuff and the stock ecu will be removed.

i do have the haltech but since it reads wheel slip over the can system i would have to wire in the speed sensors into a ecu like pro efi or aem infinity although the infinity is kinda hard to get ahold of at the moment and there was a pro efi 128 in the marketplace...............
Old 02-03-2013, 01:40 PM
  #379  
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hmmmm no way to use a universal firmware and adjust signals in the software to work?

if thats the case my only option for traction control would be racelogic or the aem infinity for traction control. the infinity is kinda hard to get atm though. jeeze my wifes gona kill me >.< i needa buy her something to appease her

Last edited by jerryd87; 02-03-2013 at 01:42 PM.
Old 02-03-2013, 02:35 PM
  #380  
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Originally Posted by jerryd87
hmmmm no way to use a universal firmware and adjust signals in the software to work?

if thats the case my only option for traction control would be racelogic or the aem infinity for traction control. the infinity is kinda hard to get atm though. jeeze my wifes gona kill me >.< i needa buy her something to appease her
Racelogic also uses the can system I thought. At least it uses the ABS sensors. And besides that, with the additional sensors to set it up (without your factory ABS system/fully stand alone) I'm pretty sure that it would cost more than the AEM.


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