So I am slowly approaching getting my car running... One of the things I want to tackle relatively soon after the car is running/now is the intake piping...

If you have seen my thread you have seen how absolutely nuts my intake piping route is, so I have quite a few couplers holding things together. This makes me nervous for high boost. I have added with a welder a small lip the pipes (without the rolled edges) and I have nice tread-stone tbolt clamps, but I really dont (apostrophe key doesnt work on this computer) think it will hold past waste-gate pressure.

I was looking at the vibrant boost braces, but there was another system that wouldnt allow for couplers to come loose (not vband or the vibrant vanjen system) I cant recall...
Anyway, what do you all recommend? I think setting up a vanjen etc direct metal connectors everywhere would be a nightmare with how many bends etc I have... Maybe a diy boost brace knock off? I find 36$ a piece (when I have like 10+ spots I need secured) just silly.
Any suggestions/criticisms welcome on this one.

 

You could use something like Tim at SFR uses....they are expensive but won't blow off. Maybe use these on the joints that are not easy to get to in case one blows while you're driving. The easy ones you could fix on the roadside.

Just a suggestion.

 

If you are able to weld tabs on to the pipes, that is probably the best solution (you can just bolt or used crimped cables to bind opposing tabs together).

 

I like that idea. I could get some studs from the hardware store and then some nuts and call it a day with some aluminum tabs...
Good thinking man!

 

Yeah, sounds like the most cost effective solution. By the way, were you thinking of Wiggins clamps? Just as expensive as Vanjen, but yeah.

 

I think so... Could have been something else... Was in a magazine ad yeaaars ago. Lol but that seems like it could be what I was imagining!?

 

ive spiked up to 30 psi when i accidentally wasnt paying attention and switched the hoses on my ebcs with no issues even my pipe going to tb which is smooth(no rolling or anything just smooth polished) stayed on. only time i had a pipe blow off is that pipe when i switched to the mustang tb because its shorter and then one of my pipes under the car because i dint tighten it enough

 

I have tested the non bead rolled IC pipes with good silicone couplers and T-bolt clamps up to 60psi (air compressor) and no issues at all. With bead rolling I have gone to 120psi (air compressor max) and nothing flew off.

 

Blitz pipe stoppers is an option a bit pricey but also adds bling factor, popular with Evo Xs.

 

"Pipe stoppers"...almost sounds like a porno.

 

Huh good info jerry, and sasha! I guess we'll just have to see. I don't want to head to the dyno and have charge pipe issues... Esp with how far i am from them and the cost (250/hr).

Admittedly my silicone couplers are not high quality

 

Instead of welding on a bead yourself you could crimp the ends using a crimper.

https://my350z.com/forum/9485906-post43.html

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showt...rcooler-Piping...

 

It sounds like you're already on the right track. I have bead rolls on every connection and t-bolts. Even worm clamps can do a pretty good job if you have bead rolls. I run up to 26psi and have tested to 40psi.

 

The problem is mainly in the coupler. Quality silicone will provide more friction than cheapo silicone couplers. With a t bolt clamp they should hold and with bead rolling they should hold almost everything.

On our semis we can run over 60psi on non rolled piping. If we have some worn out couplers we just put a small amount of silicone sealer around the pipe before we put the coupler on and then let it dry fully. Almost impossible to get off if you need to change the piping so I doubt any level of boost will remove it.

 

I ordered some intake couplers and something else from treadstone... Hopefully the fl to ca shipping doesnt take as long as last time (-.-), so should have some good updates to show you guys soon!