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My goals for the car aren't really about big power. Actually I'm really happy with the current power levels. What I would wan't is for the car to be extremely responsive and somewhat reliable. For response and track driving superchargers are great. They also generate less heat which is a problem when you track the car. To be honest if I'd start again I'd stay NA and spend my money on chassis. Now that I have gone through this route if something fails and I need to invest more money I guess gaining a little HP while I'm at it helps to keep the motivation up.
I thought about drilling a hole to the thermostat, but I just wanted to know for sure if bringing back the by-pass hose would solve the thermostat issue. I think the Z is fairly hard to bleed properly. It takes a while to get all the air out...
My goals for the car aren't really about big power. Actually I'm really happy with the current power levels. What I would wan't is for the car to be extremely responsive and somewhat reliable. For response and track driving superchargers are great. They also generate less heat which is a problem when you track the car. To be honest if I'd start again I'd stay NA and spend my money on chassis. Now that I have gone through this route if something fails and I need to invest more money I guess gaining a little HP while I'm at it helps to keep the motivation up.
I thought about drilling a hole to the thermostat, but I just wanted to know for sure if bringing back the by-pass hose would solve the thermostat issue. I think the Z is fairly hard to bleed properly. It takes a while to get all the air out...
Get a smaller ball bearing / billet wheel turbo ... You can size-out your turbo to max-out at your power ceiling. A small turbo will be extremely responsive and you wont lose torque related to the belt driven blower. Your charge pipe and intercooler sizes will impact your lag as well. The heat is the same regardless of turbo or supercharged (albeit it's concentrated at the turbo).
I bleed my car in 10minutes but it's because I dont have a heater core nor any of the miscellaneous pipes running everywhere.
Worries me about the blower, but much like you a don't care for turbos and I don't like Vortech so if it's being too much of a pain then I'll go NA+nitrous
Get a smaller ball bearing / billet wheel turbo ... You can size-out your turbo to max-out at your power ceiling. A small turbo will be extremely responsive and you wont lose torque related to the belt driven blower. Your charge pipe and intercooler sizes will impact your lag as well. The heat is the same regardless of turbo or supercharged (albeit it's concentrated at the turbo).
I bleed my car in 10minutes but it's because I dont have a heater core nor any of the miscellaneous pipes running everywhere.
Do you track the car? I would say my car is impossible to bleed in 10 minutes. I've tried a funnel and a vacuum pump.
In order to fit the turbo I would need to remove my Tomei headers and get all new piping. I think it's just too much work at this stage when the only problem is the compressor. It's been a long road and I'm not keen on making it any longer. I just want to drive!
Hey Helsinki, hope the build is progressing okay. When you installed the fuel pump, did you drill out the venturi opening? CJM recommends it at least for idle control.
@bealljk Did you try the oil cooler delete without drilling the hole in the thermostat? Get the logic, but I'm wondering if it's necessary. I've got a Mishimoto racing (lol) thermostat so I'm hoping the lower threshold will be enough?
Yeah when I I did drill out the venturi, but that didn't solve my fueling issues, but now I'm good with the surge tank and rails.
Build progress is slow, but I will get the c38-91/92 for summer since it looks like there isn't enough room for the 112.
Hey Helsinki, hope the build is progressing okay. When you installed the fuel pump, did you drill out the venturi opening? CJM recommends it at least for idle control.
@bealljk Did you try the oil cooler delete without drilling the hole in the thermostat? Get the logic, but I'm wondering if it's necessary. I've got a Mishimoto racing (lol) thermostat so I'm hoping the lower threshold will be enough?
I did remove the OEM oil cooler (the mechanism that is sandwiched between the block and the filter). At one point in time I probably had a normal thermostat with no oil cooler but I will probably always drill the hole in the thermostat - it really makes bleeding the coolant system easy.
