It lives everyone! Fired up first shot.

 

nice! onward & upward!

 

Congrats man!

 

Thanks guys!

So started working on AC lines. I'm determined to have AC.... because street car !lol

Had to get creative to clear the down pipe so jimmy rigged the low pressure side fitting for the compressor






Now that I know that clears, I need to get some aluminum tubing and do some more welding to make a custom line and route it under the down pipe .Then I need to use some flex hose and connect to the other half of the factory ac line so I can route it in its factory placement as it sat before

 

so the ac project is on hold, just waiting to get materials/parts in.

In the mean time i plumbed my oil cooler and started the car up to check for any oil leaks.

car ended up shutting off on its own after maybe about 5 mins. I noticed I wasn't getting a reading on my map sensor. Traced the wiring and well... they got a little melted . I had them to close to the header. I fixed them up and rerouted my harness. Once that was done i got a reading from the map sensor again and started the car back up.

after just a couple of mins noticed the nut on the alternator was glowing red hot which i have never seen before. So i shut the car off since that was a fire waiting to happen.

Maybe a bad alternator?

Anyone ever come across this?

going to do some digging later and check out the alternator wire and clean up the connections. When i had the car running the voltage was at 14.2. With the car off voltage was at 11.8. Seems pretty normal to me.

 

Okay so problem solved . Alternator was junk.

I checked the voltage at the alternator while the car was running and it was at 16 volts , at the battery it was 14.2 .

The alternator was overcharging.

So I took the alternator out and just replaced it with a new tyc one.

The nut actually welded itself onto the stud so i snapped it.



After putting the new alternator in, i checked the voltage again with the car running and it was at 14.6 both at the battery and the alternator.

 

Todays exhaust work

3.5 inches to 3in reducer












Ran out of gas in my tank for the welder so won't be able to finish fully welding everything until monday but that pretty much concludes exhaust work. Hoping the motordyne muffler still sounds good.

 

 

The muffler portion is 3inches so i had to reduce it somewhere. I also didn't want anything too big we dont have the best streets here, im woried about bottoming out that downpipe as it is.

 

I see ... yeah, rough roads in these parts as well ... have you checked clearance between the M-brace & driveshaft/chassis?

 

I didn't change anything over there. Thats where the muffler sits. It's the same one I used before so that all fits like before.

 

^we might be talking about different things but if it's the same one as before than you'll be good!

Good stuff!!

 

Thank you , Its not the best welds but I'm learning.

Is this what your refering to ?

 

All finished
added the bungs for my widebands and wrapped the downpipe

 

yea...post #211
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...n-build-5.html

looks good all bolted together

 

Nice I like that, it looks good. My brace is shot from the salty winters here.

 

my old one is hanging in the garage if you want it...

 

nah its okay not really concerned with it right now but thank you.

 

So I started the car to hear the exhaust and well......

It's terrible. My civic's ebay fart can sounds better. It's extremely loud and raspy.

Loud wouldn't bother me if it sounded good but it sounds very ugly. Doesn't have the tone or throat it use to have at allll.

There isn't even any point to have an exhaust. It sounds better open down pipe lol and its just as loud.

So I have a bit of trial an error to do now.

I can

1) make a 3in down pipe and run maybe a 3in ypipe back single exhaust like the tomei or something so that the 3in midpipe i just made isnt a waste----

or

2) suck it up and run Hal's 4in exhaust setup

Either way I don't think the motordyne is going to cut it anymore

I'm trying the 2nd option first only because its the easiest one. Making the 3in down pipe would involve basically taking everything apart again. I have at least some sort of idea of what Hal's car sounded like at least based on the videos but obviously video quality isn't exactly accurate.

I know no matter what the car is going to be loud though. It just needs to be a tolerable sound at least because right now its not street worthy.

 

Heres the 4in. Just waiting for it to be shipped to me from dynosty.