Telling u man all the stick shift guys here run the Hoosier 28 10.5 15 stiff wall slicks. That's what most guys have good luck with on stick shift irs cars. They have a stiff wall so they are stable at higher speeds and they recover like a slick. Drag radials want to be dead hooked and a slick wants a little spin (wheel speed). Do the stiff wall slicks you'll thank me later haha.

 

are those dot approved tho? I'd like to be able to enter the forced induction street class at the track

 

Turn up the volume !

 

nice!!
is it a good thing or a bad thing that there are redbull cans everywhere?

 

Definitely not a bad thing haha Its my substitute for coffee.

 

Definitely not dot approved haha. On a prepped track you might be ok with a radial but hopefully you have anti lag or a good 2 step to build boost on the line or it will dead hook and fall on its face with radial. Or your gonna be burning up clutches left n right trying to get the car to leave. Ask me how I know haha. I could never get a radial to work on my car. it either spun and had terrible 60 fts. or it bogged and had terrible 60 ft. I couldnt get it figured out so I ordered the stiff wall slicks to get some better 60 fts and ill be testing them out in a few days.

 

Ya that has been my experience with radials too it suxs

Let me know how you make out with the stiff walls !

I havnt been able to have any fun with my car yet. I tryed doing a pull on easter but instantly got whipp lashed from boost cut. It hit 27lbs and just cut off thank god for the haltech safeties. I think my mac solenoid called it quits on me. Waiting for a new one to come in.

 

put the new solenoid in but won't know for sure if the overboosting issue is fixed until i put ignite red back in. Right now I filled my car up with pump gas and seems like the flex fuel adjusted my boost to wastegate as I'm only seeing a max of 11 lbs now. Weird tho i don't see why it isn't on the 14 lbs we had tuned it on. I'm also seeing much richer afr's.

either way this thing rips even just like this! I love this car

I gotta say its nowhere near as smooth to drive around in the city with pump gas as it was with the ignite red. Once i waste this tank of gas I think I'm just going to put the ignite in and screw the pump gas just to have the better drivability.


one other really annoying issue I've had that Hal didn't spend to much time on (didn't want to waste dyno time) is the car will get into this uncontrollable surge when either the fan kicks on or when I'm comming to a stop and i put the clutch in and car in neutral. It will surge up to 2k back down really low then back up and then stall. It pretty much stalls at every stop. It doesnt help that the exhaust is really loud so its pretty abnoxious when it does this.

I've gotta get back in touch with Hal for a solution but has anyone else had this problem?

 

I think I've experienced something similar after hard pulls the engine will jump up to the 2-3k rpm and just hang out there until I get moving again. The engine speed will 'calm' down by doing some regular driving.

My rpms don't fluxuate but def spike up for apparent no reason...

would love to know what you find out...

 

so Hal said it could be that the fan is just old (10 years old) so I'm going to try and use a new 12in mishimoto fan i have laying around that i never used just to test and see if that works before I buy a new fan.

also I lied about only being on 11lbs. It is seeing 14lbs i just forgot about the boost by gear.

 

interesting...I went back to my single spal 16" I wonder if that's my culprit??

 

Don't use those mishimoto fans they are rated at 1100cfm but.only pull 7amps... I just changed my set out for 2 spal 12" fans that pull 14 amps and are rated at 1300+cfm they work 100x better. No more overheating issues at idle that was pissing me off. Also I tested out the hoosier 28 10.5 15's this weekend and they work absolutely 1000x better on the street and track. The best 60ft I could get at the track was a 1.75. track conditions were not great and I only got 2 passes in but man did it feel good to let that thing rip and it stuck.

 

I wasn't planning on using the mishimoto one , it was just for a test , before I actually buy a new spal one.


So I did some experimenting, I took my test fan and some test wire to run it straight to the battery to see if it would make the car surge..... and it didn't

So then before wasting my time with pulling my spal out I wanted to test it by running it straight to the battery as well (in theory if its bad it should make the car surge).... and no surge.

This led me to believe there's nothing actually wrong with the fan so I diverted my attention to the wiring

 

I found a ground that got a bit crispy which I suspect was from the alternator problem I had. I had a spare ground from another motor that was in perfect condition so I swapped it over

Here you can see the comparison between the 2 grounds

 

Unfortunately this also didn't solve my problem. The car still surges when the fan kicks on. :confused

 

How many amps are your fans rated to pull? The idle definitely drops on mine when I engage the fans and sometimes dies. 28amps from my fans is quite the load on the alternator. I have mine wired through 2 relays and I use a switch. I turn them off on the highway and just leave them on putting around town. Haven't forgot to turn them on yet haha.

 

My car does this too. It surges when coasting then will level out and idle fine once I stop. Ive played with the tune and haven't found a fix. With the big cams I have and the susper light clutch n flywheel combo it was pretty hard to get it to idle. But I'm fine with the surge as it is not causing any problems other than slightly annoying.

 

Everything is configurable with the pro plug in, throttle, idle, timing, etc so you should not be having any issues with it stalling if the throttle is working correctly and your properly tuned. If Hal tuned it, I'm sure he can tweak it out with some slight adjustments. There are specific compensation fields for when the AC and fans turn on.

 

I know he can it's just hard trying to fit in time for him to take another stab at it and its a bit of a pain doing this over remote as he doesn't have the car physically in front of him to see whats its doing.

I've managed to make some progress tho. I wired the fan to a relay to get power direct from the battery and it made it better but not perfect. I started toying with the thermofan settings on the haltech. Its a challenge trying to find a happy medium. I'd have it perfect when the fan turns on and then run into the issue when the fan turns off. Its been better than its ever been as far as the fan is concerned tho not 100% but better. Still surges and stalls when coasting tho not really sure what to do there.

 

One thing I've found on mine is when it does die I get a timing reference error code. P0373. Which isn't a Nissan code at all. It hasn't done it in a while and sometimes turned on the cel and sometimes didn't but I could read the code with my laptop on the Haltech. I would clear it and it wouldn't come back until the next time it died. It was so intermittent I could never figure out what was causing it. I did a software update and it took care of the issue. I believe my latest revision was the 13.1.