Hi all just after info for what parts, recommendations, experience etc. I’m located in QLD, Australia. Aiming for 400whp and a little less than 400wtq (ft-lb) for reliability.

09 Nissan 350z VQ35HR 6MT CD009 stock internals 140k’s/89k miles. Serviced every 5000k’s runs perfect and well looked after. Will be doing everything for longevity and cooling.

Engine Mods:

Supercharger Kit (With Intercooler) ?
Headers ?
Injectors ?
Fuel Pump ?
Fuel Return System ?
Oil Pump ?
Oil Catch Can ?
Stand Alone or Piggy Back ECU ?

Engine Cooling (FI):

Larger Intercooler ?
Radiator ?
Oil Cooler ?
Carbon Hood (More Air Flow and Cooling) ?
Gauges For Boosting (Temps, AFR, PSI, Etc) ?

 

Hello and welcome.
A lot will be determined by your budget and what's available locally/can be shipped to your area. We have a dedicated sub-forum section called "Forced Induction." You'll find your answers there.

https://my350z.com/forum/forced-induction-182/

 

+1 to scoping the FI subsections but in for the build!

Just my 2cents...

Probably stick with Vortech … I think they are essentially the only supercharger for the HR?
Only replace headers if the engine is out of the car. I've been told the HR headers are pretty good - so maybe put this towards the bottom of the parts list?
Injectors - you'll need 600cc to 1000cc injectors … I'd probably go with Injector Dynamics ID1000s / ID1050s - it'll give you plenty of room and you'll never run out of injector.
Probably wise to go with a Walbro/TI 450 or 525 - theyre both around $150 and will supply plenty of fuel. You could probably do an AEM / Deatsch 300lph … I did 568hp on my last turbo build so a 300lph pump will be fine.
Yes, you'll need a return fuel system - I don't know who makes a return system for the HR but CJ motorsports may be a good place to start.
Upgrade your oil pump gears but if you keep an OEM pump it's ok too.
Catch can … any?

The HR gets quite a bit of praise but it lacks in aftermarket support … so you may not be able to find a standalone ECU for the HR. You may be limited to Uprev. Non-the-less, Uprev will be fine for 400hp/400tq but you'll be missing some features of newer ECUs?
I do not like mishimoto - so anyone but them...maybe a Koyo radiator and Treadstone makes great intercoolers if you need one outside of your supercharger kit
I like Setrab for oil coolers … def a good thing to add for any FI build

you'll want a vented hood … whether it's aftermarket or OEM … I chopped up my OEM hood and it's 14lbs (as light as a dry carbon fiber hood) and it was essentially free. I cut my own hood vents and it helps quite a bit with engine bay temps.

 

Reliable? hahahaha you're funny! Everyday with my car is 'what is this things damn problem going to be today'.

Just get out the credit card and call Z1 https://www.z1motorsports.com/forced...5-p-10850.html I imagine John has a base tune figured out and you'll be off and running with little as headaches as possible.

 

it can be reliable … a few thoughts...

#1 - don't shortcut things … if it can go wrong it will go wrong. So when you're building make sure you use quality parts, free from defect, installed properly.

#2 - don't skimp on maintenance & upkeep … (should go without saying) oil changes, filter changes, belts, inspections, etc

#3 - drive it like it took you 18months to build and you spent every last dollar to build it … don't thrash on it every time you take the car out. Shift at 6k rpms even though you can redline at 7k, if you don't have to run 100% throttle than just do 70% throttle, smooth shifts, smooth braking, proper warm-up and proper cool downs, etc …

 

I agree... I just have horrible luck, it happens with every vehicle I've ever modified. My car was solid for two years after the engine build... put Vortech on... seems like every single day is a new issue.

For the OP I was just recommending going to one source for a complete setup. Piecing your build together will work... but you are going to have headaches.

 

If you do it Right, No ShortCuts then it will be Super Reliable.........

It's Costly, Expect to spend more than you think.

I have a 2003 Nissan 350z Touring, in Early 2004 In put on a Vortech SC'er. I Continued to make modifications to it, eventually making 578WHP/450WTQ @ 20PSI on Totally Stock untouched motor.

50,000 miles Lots of Fun Hard Runs on the Street, About 50 Runs at the DragStrip @ 10.903 @ 130.30MPH

After Installing a Twin Carbon Clutch that would Dead Hook with Slicks, in 2019 I finally Bent 5 out of 6 Rods

I NEVER HAD ANY PROBELMS DURING THAT 15 YEARS

Hope this give you some peace of mind.......

I think people that continue to have problems with modified cars do not have aliquot experience.

 

Hey mate and thank you for the response, I don’t plan on cutting corners. Proper install and a reputable tuner. Plus all the bells and whistles to support longevity with FI. So much info out their I know, just trying to get the most recent opinions on the subject.

 

Awesome mate thanks heaps for the info. Plenty think about and research into.

 

Yeah I think I’ll get a lot of miles after FI... I understand you never know though haha. Car is serviced every 3000miles/5000k’s. Has full service history since 09. Only driven hard once coolant and oil are fully warmed up, compression is still almost perfect. It will only see a couple of runs down the straight a year. Gets revved hard maybe once a week. Never goes WOT below 3000rpm. Install will be done by pros, tune will be with a reputable VQ tuner here in QLD. Keeping the torque in the slightly lower side aiming for higher HP to save the rods. All that being said it’s still a gamble but hey at least my chances of it lasting are higher.

 

I agree, parts might be hard for me to get being in AUS but one source for everything sounds much better to me.

 

I’d say the vast majority save a few unlucky people (someone that just had a faulty rod or something to begin with) that bend rods in these or blow the motor without many k’s with FI
1: don’t get it installed properly
2: do not have supporting mods for cooling (oil etc), gauges to see what’s happening.
3: drive with poor habits low rpm pulls, high gear high load driving etc.
4: tuner either messed up or just doesn’t know how to make power without sacrificing reliability.

What you shared sounds promising, if a DE can make that’s much power for that long getting driven hard then I should have no problems at all. I’m not aiming for that power and it’s a HR motor. Thanks heaps for sharing mate.