Timboj

Man, that's excellent. I assume you're on a built bottom end to push it that far? Is your engine a RevUp? And what cams are you using?

RENFRO

iTrader: (1)

Definitely don't need a built bottom end for those numbers. I've always been curious about this setup and the claimed numbers stating you needed a built motor. 400tq through a supercharger is really the sweet spot for a stock block. Wouldn't go too much beyond that, but this is how I think the HKS should be run out of the box.

Pazich

It actually does have a built bottom end with Carillo SuperA rods and 11:1 CR pistons. I had a full rebuild done since I was at 170K with a blown head gasket and was eating way too much coolant. I figured if I was going to have the engine redone, just rebuild it with better parts off the bat and allow for more safety since it's my daily driver. It is a RevUp with stock cams to answer Timboj's question. Also, not sure what the correction was applied but I've read that Dyno Dynamics read low compared to others like DynoJet, so it may be making more than what would be considered safe for stock internals.

Timboj

Yeah that's too close to theoretical breaking point on a stock bottom end. I won't risk it but love to see someone test it one day.

@Pazich Thanks for sharing the figures, btw. What made you go with Super As? We need more data on these kits. How are you finding driving it?

When I do finally build the engine, it'll be interesting to see what difference my bigger cams can make vs the RevUps better (for top end) inlet design and exhaust VCT.

Timboj

So pretty big news for my build, I just secured most of the parts I need from someone that didn't get around to their own build.

Came with all gaskets, seals, ATI damper, Manley rods (14019 h-beam), timing set and gears, block guards aaaand JWT C9 cams. But the cams are practically useless to me. One of them has a damaged tooth so I'll either get it repaired (if possible) and sell as a complete set, or at least figure out which pair is scrap and sell the other pair.

It also comes with a complete Ferrea +1mm over-sized valve kit (inc. retainers, springs, locators and keepers) which I definitely don't need but I'll take my time to consider.

All I need now are pistons, head gaskets (the bundle came with 97mm VHR gaskets, but I can sell these) and I'll upgrade the clutch while it's all apart.

Pazich

I was deciding between them and Eagles that came as part of an engine rebuild kit from Z1. I settled on the Super As based on weight comparison and also just being more conservative for engine longevity. I'm a bit paranoid since I'm selling my daily driver and now this will be my only car for a few years. I did decide against the much more expensive and heavier H beams since I knew I would never get close to that HP territory. I spoke with someone at Carillo before ordering and they confirmed Super As woud be more than adequate for a 600hp build.

I've only had the car back for less than a day, but its like a different animal above 4000rpm. I'm easily breaking traction at WOT around 5K rpm and between shifts, but I haven't found an empty enough road to play around with the traction control off just yet. Overall I'm very satisfied with my build, I think its more than enough power and torque and the engine is extremely responsive. I am definitely curious to see the differences once your build is finished.

Timboj

Good to hear man. I've got a freeway onramp not far from me so that became my test area!

Just a heads up, if you've plumbed the crank case vent back into the super charger housing (per instructions), just keep an eye on oil out the dipstick hole. I've been dealing with a sporadic leak there since I installed. I thought I already had, but I just tested again with blocking off that vent port on the SC and letting my catch can vent to open air. No more oil.

On boost it would absolutely be creating negative pressure but I suspect what was happening might have been the blow off recirculation creating positive pressure back into the engine. Whatever it was, the fix was to disconnect from the SC.

Timboj

@Pazich I forgot to ask, what boost are you making?

Pazich

Timboj,

Honestly, no idea how much boost I'm making, didn't bother to get a boost gauge yet. Also, I haven't had any issues with crankcase overpressurization or my dipstick blowing out as you mentioned. I did route my vacuum lines different from the instructions though. From the back of the supercharger, instead of the hose just running to the right side, I have a T-fitting that also runs to the crank case ventilation port on the left side that normally goes to the intake manifold, with my catch can in between. I then capped off the vacuum port on the intake manifold, so now I have vacuum 100% of the time. I was super paranoid about excess blowby without proper relief causing issues that I've read on other peoples build's, so this seemed like a good solution. This also ensures my catch can is working under boost. I'm wondering if your issue could also be because your PCV is failing and boost from the intake manifold is over pressurizing the crank case causing you dipstick to shoot out?

Timboj

What you've got now is basically where I started (both ports into the same catch can) and blocked the plenum breather intake port. Had issues with that setup and then put a filter on the right bank (where the PCV is/was, but it's drilled out) to vent to atmosphere. So at no point was pressure affected by the plenum.

Still had the oil evacuation issue. Wasn't til I just straight up blocked the intake port on the SC that it stopped.

Good to hear you haven't had issue

Conway_160

iTrader: (1)

I HIGHLY recommend a bost guage and a two channel wideband. Looking at those two things can save your engine when/if things go bad.

Timboj

@Pazich If you're interested the tuner should have that info in your dyno logs (assuming they tapped into your vacuum). But yeah, get those widebands!

So I took delivery off all the parts the guy was selling. It's a ridiculous score. The summary is:

• Timing chain set
• Full gasket and seal set (think Z1 rebuild kit)
• 2 x oil gallery gaskets (?)
• 2 cam sensors and crank sensor
• Needle bearing
• Flywheel bolts
• 2 clutch release bearings
• ACL race bearing kit
• Block guards
• Manley rods
• ATI damper (have to sell- it's race only so air con delete)
• Head gaskets (also sell- they're VQ37VHR - 97mm bore .040") **I didn't realise HR and VHR shared the same gaskets. They're slightly thicker so I guess it allows for some deck surfacing?
• Complete Ferrea +1mm oversized valve kit ($2k on its own)
• JWT C9 cams (one damaged intake cam)
• Used ARP head studs (they've only been used once- take the risk??)

...all for $2640USD at the current exchange rate...

As I mentioned, cams and damper will all be sold. Unless someone can give me a compelling reason to use the Ferrea kit (and pay for all the machining) on my SC build then they'll be sold too.

I've still got a bit to spend- billet oil gears, pistons, ARP studs and a girdle (and some random gaskets/washers) but then I'm done.

Grizzled350

Hello all. I'm new here. So I'm planning on installing HKS supecharger on my 2003 350Z Touring 6 MT. Right now I'm finishing up rebuilding the engine. I installed the Z1 Stage 3 kit with 8.8 compression ratio recommend for FI.

Does anyone know how what type of base tune comes with the kit? Really wonder if it comes tuned for stock engine compression ratio 11.0...

I will take it to a tuner once everything is complete just wondering if it will even run with the initial tune.

Timboj

It doesn't come with a tune, so your base will be whatever is in your ECU. You'll want an Uprev tune or install a standalone plug 'n play ECU like a Link N350X.

It probably won't start/Idle on your NA tune. And if it did, you absolutely wouldn't want to drive anywhere with it.

Have it trailered to the tuner.

Grizzled350

ok. Kinda figured that would be the case. I wonder if Z1 can tune it for me. I recall they have a ecu tune mail in service. Figure I bought pretty much all the parts from them. I tell them all the mods I have they give me a basic tune based on what I have. That way it will at least start/run. Then I take it to a tuner for a actual dyno tune.

My friend installed a vortec supercharger on his Mustang it came with a tuner. But that tune is based on a stock engine... I guess that's why Vortec is pretty much double the cost lol...

Grizzled350

Just verified Z1 does not do mail in tune for forced induction build. Will require custom tune... bummer.

There's a tuner shop about 5 min from home so I will start talking with them concerning tuning plan when I'm done.

But also I plan in installing WBO2 sensor and innovate AFR gauge. Ultimately I would like to learn how to do my own tunes ✌️

RENFRO

iTrader: (1)

Something to consider, is either OEM or 11:1 compression pistons, especially on the HKS. It's doubtful you'll make much power, even with the higher boost pulley in place. Tuning has gotten much better these days, so not as much need for lower compression.

Grizzled350

yea. Thanks for the feedback; but it's too late for that. I already bought the kit; I already finished building the bottom end. Actually I'm at the verifying lifter clearance stage (installed Tomei cams also) then order new lifters, Install them and finish assembling motor... I had a feeling this was gonna be an issue. I just went with the lower compression kit because that's what Z1 recommended for FI... Now I have to figure out how to get it tuned after I install the SC upgrade... I'm going with the 100mm pulley of course.

I'm probably gonna end up having to buy the N350X ecu to make this setup work... big can of worms I opened lol...

Grizzled350

I guess can just buy the stock compression pistons and start over. But I hate going backwards doing stuff over lol

Timboj

Yeah I didn't want to say it, but Renfro is totally right. If you were pushing 30-40psi 8.8 might be a good option, but at 15psi it'll barely touch the sides (so to speak). Z1 really needs to update/expand their info. Same with CZP.

N350X is awesome. If you're going to go that route, consider wiring in a few more sensors to your ECU (like oil pressure at a minimum) and installing a WB that uses CAN interface.