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Yeah I checked plug 2 at the time. Dry as a bone. Vacuum lines are triple checked- they're all good.
At this stage I'm 90% sure it's because I restricted the 10AN line so I'm going to do a run with it disconnected so it can vent to atmosphere.
In terms of fixing this... I'm either going to just vent the right bank (PCV) to atmosphere with a filter and buy a 10AN banjo to connect the right bank (which will still be routed back to the SC) OR the more expensive route is buy a 10AN to 10AN banjo, 10AN Y fitting and 10AN to 6AN reducer (for the left bank) and then it's a complete system... I'll do some testing before I commit to anything.
Are you able to better visualize this? I'm having trouble following what you're doing here. Just want to be sure you aren't inadvertently pressurizing your crankcase with boost. This should be much simpler...two -10 lines running to a vented catch can; one line off of each valve cover.
The SC housing has an inlet port for accepting the 10AN line. Without a catch can it's designed to route the left bank directly to this port.
Because this is the side it's sucking air, it should be creating negative pressure in the vent system. The same as having a pre turbo inlet on other systems.
Originally I was going to vent to atmosphere as well (as I used to do with my ARC) but this felt like a cleaner, but also more functional setup.
Edit: I also realise I fudged some of the left/right in my previous explanation too. Reads correctly now.
Lol, sometimes it's like I'm trying to sabotage myself... Went for a test drive with all vents disconnected BUT left the dipstick out. You'd better believe that crank case vented itself through the dipstick hole. Fark.
Anyway, cleaned it up and did it properly. All good that time. I'm going to try with just the right bank connected to the catch can and see how it behaves. Left bank will continue to vent to atmosphere.
Update- Most recent test (using above config) was no issue either. I'm 99% sure now it was just because I choked the AN10 line down to AN6 and negative pressure still couldn't overcome it.
I thought about two separate cans, but if you're recirculating both banks they'll still have to join somewhere (assuming they will both use the SC inlet). Unless you put a check valve in the right bank line (or both), you'll still have the same problem. I'm still pretty confident it wasn't the y that was the issue, it was my reduction to make it 'fit' with the Radium's 6AN inlet. I mean, Nissan made the left bank vent that size for a reason (and that was just NA) so on reflection, I don't know why I thought reducing it would be okay.
I've got some 10AN fittings to replace the Radium inlet on the way so I'll report back.
My way of thinking might be slightly illogical with this but I feel like a Y or T fitting would be less ideal then 2 into the can and one out?
Keep us updated.
You're not wrong that it has the potential to be more restrictive than 2 lines direct to the can, but it depends on what kind of pressure is coming through the right bank line. I read somewhere that the right bank is the main source of venting at idle (hence a check valve on it but not the left) and the left takes over with load. Theoretically as long as the left bank is unrestricted under load, which it should be after the new fittings (particularly with the negative pressure from the SC), then it should be okay. BUT I've already underestimated it once so we'll see...
I was thinking about this on my lunch break, it may not be enough. We might be underestimating the amount of blow-by but we will see when you get the new setup.
Is one -10an enough? If not I only have 2 ideas:
1. Run a dual can setup (one with a check valve) this may ultimately be the same as a 3 port.
2. Run a 2 can setup, one vented, one closed loop.
#2 will vent the most and in theory allow for some scavenging still but I don't entirely like this option.
Hopefully your new solution works out.
I would still recommend venting to atmosphere, as you're still sucking in a nasty mix of oil and fuel back through your intake (without a catch can).
If you really want to utilize the port on the intake side of the SC, if it were me, I would run -10 off of both banks to sealed catch can, and then another -10 off the top of the can to your intake port on the SC.
Simply put, two -10 lines to one can, one -10 line out to SC intake side.
EDIT:
There is still the possibility the above setup won't relieve enough pressure out of the crankcase and still result in pushing out a dipstick or, worse, damaging or pushing out seals.
That's what I was eluding to, that is the setup I intend on running. I prefer the closed loop system to the VTA for the simple fact that vacuum is better than no pressure, worse case, 2 cans one vented and one closed, that should allow for a small amount of vacuum still.
All of this requires testing to see how much vacuum the blower creates and how much pressure (or vacuum) is in the crank case.
That's what I was eluding to, that is the setup I intend on running. I prefer the closed loop system to the VTA for the simple fact that vacuum is better than no pressure, worse case, 2 cans one vented and one closed, that should allow for a small amount of vacuum still.
All of this requires testing to see how much vacuum the blower creates and how much pressure (or vacuum) is in the crank case.
Your last sentence is exactly what I was curious about. How much actual vacuum is pulled by the SC at idle.
Worst case, you could just run the single line back to the manifold side after the throttle body. Would need a check valve in that line to ensure you don't push boost to the can...which might negate running the line there at all, as your crankcase pressure would have nowhere to go...hence...probably why it has to be run to the intake side of the SC
Flex fuel sensor install. Although after installing it occurred to me that there might not be enough flex in the hose that connects the rail to the sensor to absorb engine movement. I've got poly mounts but there's still some movement.
What do the experts think?
I'm most of the way with the wiring but hoping to finish up in the next couple of days.
IAT bung is being redone. The coupler was being squashed a little and I didn't like how much contact there was with the connector and firewall. I'd rather have it right for the tune, which is this Friday. Haven't had a chance to test the catch can with the new parts yet.
All back together again and running. I'm surprised how well it's currently driving considering it's just my road tune, max 10 degrees ignition timing and VCT locked out below 4000rpm (where I'm driving/tuning). It's actually really nice.
Catch can is working without issue now, even if it is a little ugly. I've got a CFM oil filler breather inbound so even if the catch can is overwhelmed at boost (might be fine), I have a redundancy.
Before (still mad at myself)
After. Not that I care, but you can't even tell there was another bung from the outside. Heat taped now but I ran out near the top.
I didn't take a photo, but I also changed out the hose I mentioned earlier for a longer one that came with the CJM kit. Just snaked it around the harness grommet. Almost ready for the tune!
There's only about an inch and a half of flexible area between the two fittings and if it's going to move in any direction it's going to want to pull length wise so kind of a moot point. I get the sense it probably would be okay, but I had the spare hose so just changed it out to be safe. Bit uglier but it's hidden behind the plenum anyway.
The good news is that nothing went wrong and we fixed a few issues with crank priming, idle, VVT and overrun. The "bad" news is that the restrictor, true to HKS's word, limited us to 6psi (they said 5-8), which meant max power (on this dyno) was 246kw (330hp). All I can do is chuckle right now at cost to power increase ratio...
The upside is that all the hard work in tuning is basically done. So at some point in the near future, I'll open up the restrictor a smidge (aim for 8-10psi) and take it back to redo the fuel/ignition maps. It'll only be a couple of hours work. It's only money, right?!?...
330 whp is 80ish over stock so not terrible, was that on e85 or gas?
Was that on the higher boost pulley (I forgot which you ended up with) and how does it feel overall?
That was on E85 (probably unnecessary at this level) and on the 100mm pulley. Based on this I'd recommend anyone with a stock bottom end to grab the 110mm pulley and run without restrictor. Tbh, I don't mind producing some data on this kit given there's so little.
In terms of feel, it's great. Much more lively than NA from idle and getting that boost feeling from just over 2000rpm. The peak numbers obviously don't tell the whole story. Also, I didn't notice the dyno graph was in km/h until I got home so I've asked if they can send me one in RPM.
We'll see how long I last before I mod the restrictor...
08-23-2022, 03:03 PM
