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Nice, that "unrefined" comment hits me hard lol.
I've come to realize that my 4 year old car is so much better in multiple ways.
Quieter interior, better driving feel, frankly faster in day to day driving.
Now I must work on bringing my Z up to par, handling is precise but there are a lot of little things I need to do to bring it up to par
Yeah, it's such a gruff car these days. When I go built, I'll definitely switch back to rubber engine mounts. Might keep the poly trans mount.
I've spent a bit of time on chasing/dampening rattles inside, but there's one or two under the dash that became more obvious with engine mounts...
I'd like the exhaust to be a LITTLE quieter, but Motordyne don't offer a more muffled option. This creates a tonne of NVH too.
Eventually I'll apply sound deadening to a good portion of chassis too. It's a street car that does the odd track day so I'm caring less and less about weight. That said, decent racing seats are on the list.
It's been so long, I'd love to drive a totally stock 350 again and compare the two.
You know I still know what the stock car felt like, mine now feels oddly more comfy and precise but man did I miss the mark with the driver dynamics, for one most aftermarket seats are high so I'm like 1.5" from the roof, my shifter now feels long (even tho the **** sits lower than stock and my knees hit my key.
None of this mattered to me before because I don't drive it much, but after dialing in my GTI shifter and clutch feel it made me realize that I do care, so I'll be addressing that this coming winter.
Word of the wise research when it comes to seats, I am $1200 in the hole for mounts and looks like I'll be spending $400-600 more to get them lower.
Sucks but whatever, I recommend the Zakustech mounts or custom if possible.
I put in recaro's on low profile mounts by planted and they gave me more headroom for a helmet. Much better for track days as mine was rubbing on the headliner, and the cloth seats aren't as slippy. Lighter too.
Bottom mount, and I'm sure they sit flat. I put the sliders on the driver side and didn't on the passenger as I had the head room and that gives some adjust ability to the driving posn. There is different versions for some years and trans types to deal with slight changes to the tunnel (I think auto passenger side is different off the top of my head).
Now I get you. Yes the passenger side sits a little higher (.5 in ish). I'm 6'3" so needed all the room I could for a helmet. If it wasn't enough on the low profile I was going to drop the slides on the driver side. If you had the room you could space off the driver to match the passenger.
The recaro's are from a JDM spec Integra Type R off the top of my head. Buddy of mine had them and they were known to fit, and I could sit in them to try them out.
Hi guys, been a hot minute. I keep waiting for something to happen, but the car has been running fantastically. Really enjoying the power on tap and the subtle, but still audible supercharger noise adds a bit to the experience.
I've made some adjustments to the idle actuator and idle speed control to improve drivability. I've also taken advantage of the long term term fuel trim adjustments to apply suggested trims to either bank.
What else... another downside to the CFM valve cover breather? Doesn't fit under the strut bar... Not a well engineering solution...
I'm in the market for a set of RPF1s I can use for the track but I'm unsure on the offset. I wanted to go a square 9.5inch setup and +15 seems to be the way to go.
I'm currently on 19x9.5 +23 and 19x10.5 +22. On stock camber settings my setup is almost perfectly flush (1-2mm front and rear) with the arches. Rears rub on hard bumps (not rolled/trimmed). They were originally fitted to an R35 so I'm still impressed with how well they fit the Z33.
An offset calculator tells me I'll have more room in the rear with 18x9.5 +15 (gain 6mm clearance), but the fronts will stick out an additional 8mm. I suppose I could add some camber, which is probably better for the track, but means I couldn't get away with them on the street with stock camber settings. The alternative is +38mm offset which means I gain 15mm clearance from the arch BUT I lose 15mm on the inside, so that might become a rubbing problem elsewhere?
I was leaning into Nankang AR1 275/35R18 for rubber.
I'm doing some planning for the forged build (hopefully next year). I've got a pretty good idea of what I'm doing with the bottom end, but the heads seem to be a little more open to opinion.
What's the current consensus on head work for a DE? I understand they already flow pretty well, but is it worth going to aftermarket valves? Just port match the heads? Should the guides be replaced 'while I'm in there'?
For anyone not across my current config (or just a refresh), I've already got JWT C2/C8 cams and JWT springs. Power goals are as much as I can make with 11:1 CR and 15psi from the HKS blower (550-600hp?) and some room in case I change my mind later.
That blower will be maxed out, either way, if you want more power are you willing to switch to another blower or even turbo? If not I'd refresh and leave as is.
I saw your dyno pull on YT, what RPM are getting max power at?
That blower will be maxed out, either way, if you want more power are you willing to switch to another blower or even turbo? If not I'd refresh and leave as is.
I saw your dyno pull on YT, what RPM are getting max power at?
No plans for changing out the blower in the foreseeable. I knew I'd be over-building the engine (kinda hard not to) for my max boost so that's all good. Future proofs it for later.
It's making 390whp now (at 15-20% drivetrain loss that's already above 450 engine). I figured another 5psi and 11:1 should get me above 550 engine, and it's safe as houses.
@bealljk frustrating but the tuner's dyno is pretty old. They didn't spec it with crank speed/RPM and can't do nm ft/lb output either... My best estimate by matching logs with the road speed graph was peak power was happening around 6200-6300RPM.
Maybe one of these days I'll just take it to another dyno for output. Shouldn't be expensive for a run or two.
And thanks for the response. That's what I was after.
Couldn't pass up a good deal (well, remains to be seen)...
Picked up a donor engine for the build a few days ago for $300AUD... "The catch" is that the timing cover cracked/unusable. The guy I bought it off had damaged the timing cover on another engine and bought this (off an associate who'd pulled it from a running car to swap in an LS), so that he had a good timing cover AND a spare engine if necessary. So this engine now has the dodgy cover. He recently sold his Z so had no use for this any more.
I'll wait til I've got it on the stand to tear it down any further (it was a complete engine with plenum, exhaust manifolds, full harness etc..) but before I bought it I used a scope to inspect the bores and it turns over smoothly. I took a look under one of the cam covers and there's a little wear on the lobes, which doesn't bode well for the lifter buckets, but whatever. Worst case, I've got my own heads/buckets... It'll be machined anyway so unless I find anything major in the teardown, it's good enough.
Question for the group; has anyone attempted something like this in their stock bumper? Excuse the shitty photoshop- it's just to illustrate the concept.
The reason I'm entertaining it is my oil cooler is tucked away behind there and I'm concerned it's not getting enough air flow to hold up on a hot track day. The easier route (other than to just buy a different bumper) would be to build out a splitter between the PS cooler and the aluminium panel you can see in picture, to channel more air to the left. I'm sure that would help quite a bit, but the air is still having to do a hard left then hard right to pass through the cooler. A duct like this would allow direct air to the cooler with an easier path through too.
If I do it, it will be 3D printed with curved edges and all that. If anyone's curious I used Poly Cam to make the 3D scan above using my phone. Actually turned out really well.
10-05-2022, 07:14 PM
