The power came from allowing more air to reach the front cylinders relieveing the extremely rich mixture that the factory setup would create,

 

It certaintly appears that way with the non-revup engine. Volume makes a difference (up to a point). Long ago i tested a 3/4" spacer and it was essentially the same as the 1/2".

But with the REVUP engine any extra volume does little to nothing for performance.

I wish I could report otherwise but that is what solid testing showed on the dyno. Experimentation shows that engine is a whole different ball of wax. A lot of it has to do with the new variable valve timing. Its changing all of the sonic charecteristics from 2004.

Revup requires a more fundamental approach.... IE not complicated. Soon enough you will get the gains you are looking for.

This mod produces significant gains in area under the curve and will surprise many.

 

Which of the 5/16 kits would be ideal for a Turbonetics ST in LA California? Is it # 6 on the GB list?
Thanks,
Jeff

 

#6 for sure.

 

we need a hint Tony

dont leave me in suspense, especially since ive been waiting so long

 

Right, right. Over the weekend I tested my multimeter and thermocouple in Huntington Beach and it was 0.943% off.

 

Ive got the g35 vortech, live in vancouver bc, but store the car 6 months of the crappy rainy cold year, so would #7 be best for me as i dont have a strut bar and dont drive in icy cold weather conditions?

 

If you don't plan on driving in the snow with the CCV closed then yes.

 

Tony:

I am hoping to install my Iso-Thermal Upgrade with Copper Throttle Body Heater this weekend.

Have you made any progress improving the CTB Heater Installation Manual?

 

Yes, did you get my PM?

Send me your email addy via PM and I can send it directly to you.

 

No, no PM delivered.

Private email address sent to you via PM moments ago.

Thanks.

 

Tony,

I was just reading through the installation instructions from the MD website in preparation for installing mine this weekend. I noticed that it now says to uplug the TB harness. I though I remembered seeing a warning in a copy I downloaded last week stating that you should not disconnect the TB. Disconnecting the TB would require a recalibration procedure.

Is it safe to disconnect or not?

Dave

 

Yes, its OK to disconnect if you first unplug your battery negative. And be sure to not push open the TB butterfly valve. Its sensitive and calibrated.

 

Tony:

email address sent. Please help by sending me the revised CTB Heater Installation Manual. I really want to install the Iso-Thermal upgrade kit that I purchased this weekend (early tomorrow morning).

 

I ordered my #8 kit on Tuesday and it arrived today, Friday.

The thing went on just like it should, came off, and then went back on again ... I bought the copper throttle body heaters ... and managed to get one hose on the stock and one hose on the copper heater! Thank goodness I noticed in on the QA check or I guess I would have pumped coolant everywhere.

So I used my torque wrench and followed the instructions and had zero air leaks. Put the spacers for the strut on and noticed that there's no torque measurement for the new Motordyne supplied 17 mm bolts. Anyone got a suggestion? I used my gut wrent and torqued them down tight.

It's Friday night in SoCal so I loosed the beast onto the highway and backroads and noticed a mild increase in the butt dyno reading, a big difference in the growl , and noticed that the revolutions seemed to come faster.



On the Paul350Z scale of one to five I rate this a nice easy "ZZ" with nothing too difficult and not too many moving parts. Do not move the trottle body's butterfly valve, don't drop too many screws and bolts into the engine comparts and none into the air plenums and get yourself a torque wrench or borrow mine. This isn't much more difficult than swaping out the cold air intake and if you're not doing the thermal spacer so much the easier.

 

I installed mine last week and have ran the car hard since then. I was planning on writing a review but I haven't had time with my busy schedule.

It took me a LOT longer to install this thing than the instructions led to believe. Of course, it was lengthened by the ST intake tube removal, ect, but I don't see anyone installing this in one hour unless they've done this same mod in the past.

Running, the plenum seems cooler to the touch when I start the car and idle it, or just take it easy. A few quick runs at WoT, and guess what? Plenum is heat soaked just like the stocker. Touching it still leads me to believe I could cook eggs on it.

The does pull harder though, I'm not sure if it's more to do with the spacer component or the isothermal gaskets/ccv. So far the heat doesn't seem much better, on the ST at least...

 

Hi Taurran,

Do you have the CCV in the closed position?

The plenum will get hot if the CCV is left open.

 

If the picture in the instructions is correct, yes.

 

Since I've never thermally measured it with a turbo under high boost, I suppose I can't really say what the thermal results will be. Results would be highly dependant on the IC efficency.

For NA when you do several WOT runs the plenum definetly becomes cool. (or at least approaches what ever the ambient inlet temperatures are). In your case if the boost pressure is heating the air, the plenum temperature will approach whatever the charge air temperature is.

Could you do a quick test? Do the same WOT runs and immediatly get the temperature of the metal air tube just upstream of the TB. The air tube is not being heated by the heads or coolant flow. If the air tube is hot, that will indicate the air going into the plenum is also hot. That could be the heat source you notice.

Hmmm... Got thermocouples? I can think of a few interesting tests you could do that would show what was happening.

 

FedEx was supposed to deliver my kit yesterday but never did. Damn FedEx!