Anyone NOT install the Coolant Control Valve with the plenum spacer?
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Anyone NOT install the Coolant Control Valve with the plenum spacer? I haven't installed the spacer yet, was just reading the instruction getting familier with what I need and what to expect.
I always thought the Coolant Control Valve was installed when you ordered the Cooper throttle body heater and that's why I didn't order the Cooper throttle body heater option.
But I really don't want to go adjusting the Coolant Control valve in the Spring when it might be 60F one day and then might be 45F the next.
Is it really necessary to Install this Coolant Control Valve and adjust it everytime it goes above or below 55F? I should have ordered the cooper throttle body heater option if I knew that didn't involve this Coolant Control Valve thing.
I always thought the Coolant Control Valve was installed when you ordered the Cooper throttle body heater and that's why I didn't order the Cooper throttle body heater option.
But I really don't want to go adjusting the Coolant Control valve in the Spring when it might be 60F one day and then might be 45F the next.
Is it really necessary to Install this Coolant Control Valve and adjust it everytime it goes above or below 55F? I should have ordered the cooper throttle body heater option if I knew that didn't involve this Coolant Control Valve thing.
Last edited by ZlleH; Mar 19, 2006 at 07:25 AM.
The coolant control valve stops coolant flow through the TB and manifold. The purpose is to eliminate heating the incoming air charge. Really not a gimick as decreased air temps result in more dense air thus more O2 ppm. More O2=more power.
I wouldn't worry to much about the Throttle body condensing and freezing. Keep the valve open until mid-April when you probably won't see any temps below freezing for the remainder of the summer, then close it. Open the valve back up in October or early November. Even if you get little ice buildup on the butterfly it shouldn't have a dramatic impact, it may affect the idle by allowing small amounts of air to sneak in... Not a big problem. Plus residual heat from the motor should keep it warm enough.
I wouldn't worry to much about the Throttle body condensing and freezing. Keep the valve open until mid-April when you probably won't see any temps below freezing for the remainder of the summer, then close it. Open the valve back up in October or early November. Even if you get little ice buildup on the butterfly it shouldn't have a dramatic impact, it may affect the idle by allowing small amounts of air to sneak in... Not a big problem. Plus residual heat from the motor should keep it warm enough.
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But what if I ever have to sell the car? I don't want to cut the hose and install it and then tell the buyer that every time it goes below or above 55F that he/she has to get a long flathead and turn that thing. See where I'm coming from?
Originally Posted by rotaryrocket7
The coolant control valve stops coolant flow through the TB and manifold. The purpose is to eliminate heating the incoming air charge. Really not a gimick as decreased air temps result in more dense air thus more O2 ppm. More O2=more power.
I wouldn't worry to much about the Throttle body condensing and freezing. Keep the valve open until mid-April when you probably won't see any temps below freezing for the remainder of the summer, then close it. Open the valve back up in October or early November. Even if you get little ice buildup on the butterfly it shouldn't have a dramatic impact, it may affect the idle by allowing small amounts of air to sneak in... Not a big problem. Plus residual heat from the motor should keep it warm enough.
I wouldn't worry to much about the Throttle body condensing and freezing. Keep the valve open until mid-April when you probably won't see any temps below freezing for the remainder of the summer, then close it. Open the valve back up in October or early November. Even if you get little ice buildup on the butterfly it shouldn't have a dramatic impact, it may affect the idle by allowing small amounts of air to sneak in... Not a big problem. Plus residual heat from the motor should keep it warm enough.
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Originally Posted by ZlleH
But what if I ever have to sell the car? I don't want to cut the hose and install it and then tell the buyer that every time it goes below or above 55F that he/she has to get a long flathead and turn that thing. See where I'm coming from?
My bad, if you just bypassed it then your're 100% correct. You saved money...
+1 to the above, just leave the valve open. They can decide if it's too much trouble. Just telling them about it will probably help sell the car.
+1 to the above, just leave the valve open. They can decide if it's too much trouble. Just telling them about it will probably help sell the car.
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