So based on my dynopack results I am running lean at 4k by quite a bit. On either side of 4k it's okay though.

Seems like the stock ECU is shutting me down.

So is it pointless to make the car breathe any better if I can't get the fuel to use it? Time for an ECU flash?

 

I would buy the cats and plenum first, then get the flash?? It would seem to me flashing the ECU now that it would learn the mods you currently have, but once u get the cats and plenum later you would again be changing the A/F... and may need to flash again? Or at least wouldn't be making max power. I just think it would be best to get all the mods in place first, then flash, and dynotune for max power.

I don't know exactly how the "custome tune" flashes work that AAM or other vendors offer, but if you could get a fuel tune for all boltons (including the cats/plenum) at the time of flash, then it might be worth it to do it now? You might run a tad rich until you get the last two mods then, but at least you wouldn't need to flash again.

But like I said, I'm not the reflash pro, so maybe one of the flash vendors can chime in?

 

get the plenum and cats and then drive up to Technosquare and have them flash it right there and dyno it to make sure it is where it needs to be A/F wise.

 

how much is the technosquare reflash? is it around $600? any discounts 2nd time around?

 

I think if the flash is wrong the first time as in they make it to rich/lean they will do it again for free... (dont quote me on that though). I know if you are close to them in Cali it is best to just make an appt and go there for them to do it. Save the down time of having to send the ECU back and forth.

 

$150 for second reflash

 

Sure would help to see the dyno chart.

 

Here's a link to my dyno day.

https://my350z.com/forum/southern-california/180509-350z-s2000-mustanggt-dyno-day-at-church-results.html

 

Yep. Sure is lean. You can do the mods that you listed, then a ECU tune within a reasonable period of time after the mods are completed.

 

the way i understand it, if you still have cats and you get your a/f ratios from a tailpipe probe it reads about one full point leaner due to the cats.(14:1=13:1 etc.) it needs to be done pre cats to be accurate (the reason they are called test pipes)

 

as what was said above, get the cats and plenum installed then tune the car. though I suggest to get a piggyback instead of the reflash for better tuning.

 

it doesn't look that lean to me... you're hitting a tad over 12.5 at redline (stoich on an n/a car?)