Notices
Intake Exhaust Moving all that air in and out efficiently

*Help* Nismo Exhaust issues.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old May 21, 2007 | 04:11 AM
  #1  
HackneyG's Avatar
HackneyG
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
From: DC Metro
Default *Help* Nismo Exhaust issues.

I currently have a 2003 enthusiast 350z fitted with the Nismo exhaust. After driving for awhile, I hear a rumbling noise coming from the exhaust when the car is in motion and while the car is idle. I lifted the car last night and it appears that the exhaust is hitting the crossmember below the Y-pipe.

My question is, has anyone else had this problem?
What did you do to remedy this?

For the record, I tried using the search function, but I couldn't find anything of merit. Thanks in advance.
Reply
Old May 21, 2007 | 09:50 AM
  #2  
Track's Avatar
Track
Registered User
 
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 745
Likes: 0
From: Houston, Texas
Default

Did you have the dealer install it?
Reply
Old May 21, 2007 | 09:56 AM
  #3  
blasian's Avatar
blasian
New Member
iTrader: (29)
 
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 33,731
Likes: 1
From: Get out my way pimpin, LA
Default

I thought I heard somewhere that their were "spacers" to install on that crossmember to give it more clearance
Reply
Old May 21, 2007 | 10:13 AM
  #4  
HackneyG's Avatar
HackneyG
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
From: DC Metro
Default

Originally Posted by Track
Did you have the dealer install it?
No, the exhaust was on the car when I purchased it.


I thought I heard somewhere that their were "spacers" to install on that crossmember to give it more clearance
If there are spacers, I'd like to know where I could get some. This rattling noise is killing me.
Reply
Old May 21, 2007 | 06:50 PM
  #5  
teacher's Avatar
teacher
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 143
Likes: 0
From: Wi
Default rattling exhaust

I just dealt with the same situation. Nightmare...until its gone.

I used some black heater hose (rubber/silicone - good enough heat resistance for midway down the exhaust.) The hose is about 1/8`` thick and fairly dense. I used about an inch sq. or less in two places. I cut a piece and attached it to the brace pieces (there were two rattles on my car with the thick 3.1`` JIC ) with some silicone adhesive (500 plus degree). Ironically the natural curve/semicircle of the hose followed the contour of the pipe in one instance, and the brace in the other. Almost seems that this fix was meant to be!

Hardest part was getting under the car and taking the time to smear the silicone on the hose in a somewhat restrained/artful fashion. Hey, style counts

No fires, no smells, no RATtleS!
Reply
Old May 21, 2007 | 07:25 PM
  #6  
THE TECH's Avatar
THE TECH
Registered User
iTrader: (154)
 
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 10,735
Likes: 0
From: Hills of Anaheim
Default

I've never heard of having to use spacers. Maybe just take a look at the entire setup. Make sure that the exhaust is sitting in all the hangers.
Reply
Old May 22, 2007 | 04:14 AM
  #7  
HackneyG's Avatar
HackneyG
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
From: DC Metro
Default

Originally Posted by teacher
I just dealt with the same situation. Nightmare...until its gone.

I used some black heater hose (rubber/silicone - good enough heat resistance for midway down the exhaust.) The hose is about 1/8`` thick and fairly dense. I used about an inch sq. or less in two places. I cut a piece and attached it to the brace pieces (there were two rattles on my car with the thick 3.1`` JIC ) with some silicone adhesive (500 plus degree). Ironically the natural curve/semicircle of the hose followed the contour of the pipe in one instance, and the brace in the other. Almost seems that this fix was meant to be!

Hardest part was getting under the car and taking the time to smear the silicone on the hose in a somewhat restrained/artful fashion. Hey, style counts

No fires, no smells, no RATtleS!
Thanks for the info man. I might have to give this a shot this weekend if I get around to it. Where did you purchase your materials? I'd rather use the same materials that you used since they have already been tested. Thanks again.
Reply
Old May 22, 2007 | 04:42 AM
  #8  
ncdoc's Avatar
ncdoc
Registered User
 
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
From: Harrisburg, NC
Default

Search is such a pain sometimes. There are spacers which can be used to move the M-brace slightly downward. I just purchased some washers and inserted them between the M-brace and the car body (did not need to remove entire M-brace to do this). The spacers/washers only need to go on the four foward most bolts (at least in my case that sufficed). I put 5 washers per bolt (4). This move the brace down enough to totally eliminate the contact.

I will try to locate the thread which specified the washer sizes. You can just take one of the bolts off and go to a hardware store to measure the size washer you will need. When you remove the 4 foward bolts you can pull the M-brace down just enough to slip the washers in without removing the brace. I taped the washers together to make it easier to insert them together.

Contact for me was ocurring on most big or jarring bumps, now it is completely gone.

ncdoc
Reply
Old May 22, 2007 | 05:39 AM
  #9  
HackneyG's Avatar
HackneyG
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
From: DC Metro
Default

Originally Posted by ncdoc
Search is such a pain sometimes. There are spacers which can be used to move the M-brace slightly downward. I just purchased some washers and inserted them between the M-brace and the car body (did not need to remove entire M-brace to do this). The spacers/washers only need to go on the four foward most bolts (at least in my case that sufficed). I put 5 washers per bolt (4). This move the brace down enough to totally eliminate the contact.

I will try to locate the thread which specified the washer sizes. You can just take one of the bolts off and go to a hardware store to measure the size washer you will need. When you remove the 4 foward bolts you can pull the M-brace down just enough to slip the washers in without removing the brace. I taped the washers together to make it easier to insert them together.

Contact for me was ocurring on most big or jarring bumps, now it is completely gone.

ncdoc
Thanks dude, I really appreciate your input. I think I like the washer idea the most. Please excuse my noobness, but this M-brace you speak of, is it the same as the crossmember?
Reply
Old May 22, 2007 | 05:49 AM
  #10  
blasian's Avatar
blasian
New Member
iTrader: (29)
 
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 33,731
Likes: 1
From: Get out my way pimpin, LA
Default

Originally Posted by HackneyG
Thanks dude, I really appreciate your input. I think I like the washer idea the most. Please excuse my noobness, but this M-brace you speak of, is it the same as the crossmember?
Yup. Its near the area where the y-pipe and mid-pipe connect.
Reply
Old May 22, 2007 | 05:59 AM
  #11  
ncdoc's Avatar
ncdoc
Registered User
 
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
From: Harrisburg, NC
Default

^ Yes, that black metal brace = crossmember .

ncdoc
Reply
Old May 22, 2007 | 06:03 AM
  #12  
drivesolo's Avatar
drivesolo
New Member
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,733
Likes: 3
From: Renton, WA
Default

I had the same problem in my '03. The solution I found was making a slight adjustment to the brackets that the cats are mount on up front. Turned out that they could be moved a little higher giving slightly better clearance at the mid-pipe to the crossmember. Worked fine, not more rumbling down there anymore.
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Justin100
Intake Exhaust
26
Nov 29, 2015 03:58 PM
Mattg350z
Buying/Leasing
4
Oct 2, 2015 06:51 AM
nanotech
Exhaust
6
Oct 2, 2015 05:02 AM
Li1ag
Exhaust
1
Sep 28, 2015 02:07 PM




All times are GMT -8. The time now is 08:22 PM.