Did the uprev tune cancel out the sensors?

You shouldn't feel any problems with responsiveness. All ok here.

Your y-pipe is a restricted point, were you running HFC's before?

 

No, once we put the new upstream sensor in it cancelled out the codes. Not quite sure if they cancelled out the sensors. Sometimes when im in low rpms and hit the gas hard it hesitates almost like a bucking action. No I replaced the factory cats with the ART pipes.

 

If they retuned your throttle plate opening, it will be more of a 1 to 1 reaction, suddenly flooring it at low RPM's can do that. This is assuming of course that it's been tuned properly, make sure the fuel tables look ok.

 

so probably the best way to get maximum power of the test pipes is too replace the stock y pipe with an aftermarket x or xyz pipe?

 

The MD XYZ will optimise the power/torque from that part.

Standard test pipes actually lose power and torque in the low range to gain in the upper range, the ART pipes correct most of that.

 

Thats what I read, and the reason behind buying the ART pipes, but I lost a lot of low end torque, with gaining only 10 whp on the high end.After spending $2k with a tune and install its become very frustrating.

 

When did you install the intake?

It is somewhat common for CAI's to have hesitation issues or even stalling.

 

I bought the car with the intakes. Ive been debating on what I should do with the intakes because the car didnt come with the stock ones. I have heard the stock intakes are much better than CAI's but I cant find stock intakes for sale. I took the air duct out thinking maybe that will increase air flow. On top of it I now have an SES light which is all pertaining to the catalyst. Which I thought ptuning turned off those codes. Is it normal to throw codes with the ART pipes? The reason I bought them was because everyone said they didnt throw codes.

Im still feeling the hesitation if not more now, Im not getting much of any power till about 4-5k rpms. Almost feels like the ECU is in safe mode, but this was occurring way before the codes were thrown. I took it to an exhaust shop just to make sure there weren't any leaks and they didnt find any. Any ideas on what could be causing this?

 

sorry to be a little more clear I bought the car about a year and half ago, and the intakes have been on ever since

 

What are the code numbers? If you are losing significant power to 4-5K rpm it sounds like there is something else going on.

Call me for faster troubleshooting. 661 993-5111

Tony

 

Just placed my order today. Do I need a retune going from HFC to ART pipes?

 

No.

 

I'll call you on monday to do the trouble shooting, in the meantime the codes are P0420 and P0430. Im taking it back to ptuning to have them cancel those sensors out. When they finished the tune they didn't really tell me much of what they did. I think the one thing he said was that he lowered the engine temp to 199 and made it run richer on the high end. What are some other things that they should of done? Again all I have is CAIs, invidia catback, and ART test pipe. On a dyno dynamics I gained 10 rwhp to get 268, with dynojet numbers it was 300.Do you think they forgot to do something? Does anyone have almost the same setup with similar results?

 

This is with dynojet numbers, but the tune was on Dyno dynamics which read 268

 

Just to throw in some quick input; I get P0420 sometimes too. I only get the code when going at a constant low rpm for a lengthened period of time, possibly a few minutes at the least and the code will pop up. I also get the code when going on cruise control. Other than that, it doesn't come up at all. Spoke to Tony about this and I agree with this theory that the constant A/F ratio from the constant RPM will cause the computer to throw the code.

Not sure if your situation is the same!

 

What are you classing as low?

 

3500 and below constant (generally where cruise goes to) is where I've thrown the code, but I would assume that any rpm at a constant rate for a lengthened period of time would throw it too.

 

Interesting, took 2500 miles for mine to come on, cleared and fine again. Whined about the sensor response being too slow.

However, i've seen about this before, it's related to anti-foulers, not the ART pipes specifically.

Apparently turning off the rear sensors in the tune causes the banks to start over fuelling on one and under-fuelling the other. There is a thread in tuning about it from earlier this year, but i can't find it now.
Last time i saw it, it was the OP having unplugged his rear sensors, and he was unable to repro the problem as he was before.

 

My codes aren't turned off since the ART pipes came with bungs - I actually didn't get the light on for thousands of miles (3+) until I decided to cruise control on a roadtrip and it came on on the way back. Recently I've had to keep it low and constant (noise ordinance.. virginia trip) and it came on after a couple minutes of consistency on a highway.

 

I use cruise nearly all the time, i daily the car, but nothing until it went cold.