It took about 1k miles for the codes to pop up, once cleared they came back on within 150 miles. Not to much highway driving mainly city/suburbs. But I still dont get the reasoning behind loss of low end power? What are some things your guys tuner did with uprev? Im thinking one problem is my CAI but because its only really sucking in the heat from the engine, but I have had them on for over a year now with no problems. Within the next couple weeks i will be getting injen long tube cold air intake so that might help a little. Any other ideas on the all of the sudden loss of low end power? I spoke to a guy and he said in the winter they change the blend that is in the gas which might make you feel you dont have as much power? That doesn't seem to make sense.

 

the reason for the P0420 is explained in great detail on this websitehttp://www.aa1car.com/library/p0420_dtc.htm, a tuner can cancel those codes out because with test pipes there normal, the codes arent my issue, just loss of power.

 

I wish i could find that other thread, i can't remember what the result of turning them off in the tune, i *think* it might not have worked as intended, because the computer tries to look at them under those conditions, and gets no reading from them, or something.
Still doesn't quite make sense as unplugging them seemed to work...

I don't know, i need to find the thread and the guy who spent 2/3 years trying to find what the problem was and how to reproduce/fix it.

 

As for the low power, it's possible that the fuel doesn't help, but i wouldn't bet low end power that you could notice on it.
The short ram won't help, esp if you're stop and go a lot. Make sure you don't have any leaks anywhere, esp. before the sensor, so between the manifold and the ART pipes.


Also, if you do have the problem with one bank running richer than the other, it will have this affect too. Clearing the code does just that, but it doesn't clear the fuel learning, which you should do to get the feeling back until it decides to throw again (if indeed it does)

 

How do you clear the fuel learning?

 

I used the Uprev software/cable/laptop.

 

So that's something my tuner has to do unfortunately?

 

If you didn't buy the Uprev stuff, yeah.

 

I talked to my tuner and he said that if they cancel out the codes it simply hides them, it does not disable the sensors. He said that once the car threw the codes it could of altered the tune entirely or put the car into limp mode, which is the reasoning behind the loss of power. I will be taking it back into the shop to have them take a look at it on Wednesday. Ill let you know the results. I also just bought injen long tube cold air intake so hopefully they will help.

 

It was good talking with you today. Here is the inlet temperature Vs HP plot. The plot shows how much inlet temperature affects power from 50'F to 120'F.

If you have air intakes with naked filters in the engine compartment the inlet temperatures can easily exceed 150'F. I would definitely get a replacement CAI or even stock intakes to replace the ones you have now.

They can easily be losing 20+ HP just from the hot air ingestion.

When you take it to the tuner let me know what you find. If possible try to get a comparative pre/post dyno of your ART pipes to get objective test results to identify if there is a problem, where and what the magnitude is.

Tony

 

A quick review of your dyno plot looks normal and good. No peaks, dips or anything unusual.

It was probably dynod with the hood open which will allow for cooler air going to the intakes so in this case, it all looks normal.

Once you close the hood it will however lose power from the CAI hot air ingestion.

 

Yeah, that's what i was thinking with the codes throwing the tune off as well.

I'm wondering if anything can be done, tuning-wise with this kind of setup, i'll just have to keep thinking about it.

 

Didn't wanna make a new thread, and I don't know if this has already been answered.. but.. where do I weld in a bung for my Air Fuel Gauge if I have ART Pipes? Gauge is a Innovate MTX-L AFR if it matters...

 

Put it just after the merge collector on the Y pipe. That way you measure both banks at the same time.

 

I always thought the further down you go, the less accurate the readings become.. pardon my ignorance if I'm wrong though. I really don't know diddly.

 

are non polished versions still available??

 

I would surmise they'd be special order, ART pipes are all polished finely

 

Does the v2 still require to file down one of the heat shield bolts?

 

Yes, just use a hack saw and take it down in length. It's an odd bolt, it's too long for what it's for.

 

yeah, manufactures use the same size stud through out cars to save money and use only one type of stud welder. it cheaper to mass order one size stud and carry the parts to maintain one type of stud welder. i deal with these all the time at work.

btw, a dremel with a cut off wheel make short work of it. i also put paint where i cut it to prevent it from rusting.