Z overheated/boiling sound from radiator/hissing
05-06-2012, 03:43 PM
#24
Replaced TS and I am still overheating. I don't think my fill/bleed process is correct. Bottom hose is still cold and so is the heat until I drove it to the point it was overheating and then it came on for a second and my temp started to go down. I'm sure there is still a lot of air in the system.
What is the proper technique for filling and bleeding the system if you don't have the Lisle funnel?
What is the proper technique for filling and bleeding the system if you don't have the Lisle funnel?
05-06-2012, 03:52 PM
#25
Registered User
Get it on an incline, engine side up, start it cold with rad cap off. Keep the radiator full while it warms up, hold it at 2000 RPM or so if you want to do it faster. You should see bubbles come through radiator if theres much air. When its hot and seems full and no bubbles cap it, fill reservoir and test drive. There's a OEM bleeder screw somewhere but my method is fool proof and works with most cars. You could have weak water pump too if this don't work.
05-06-2012, 04:19 PM
#28
Replaced TS and I am still overheating. I don't think my fill/bleed process is correct. Bottom hose is still cold and so is the heat until I drove it to the point it was overheating and then it came on for a second and my temp started to go down. I'm sure there is still a lot of air in the system.
What is the proper technique for filling and bleeding the system if you don't have the Lisle funnel?
What is the proper technique for filling and bleeding the system if you don't have the Lisle funnel?
05-07-2012, 03:59 AM
#29
The pump seems to be working as the top hose has that "swell and surge" to it. Correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't the hose offer little resistance when squeezed if it was the water pump?
I keep saying it's air, but in order for the system to be bled, wouldnt the TS have to be opening which would mean the lower hose would be hot as well? Is my new TS not opening as well? WHen I removed the lower hose to pull the TS, there was a good 3 inches of air in the hose and I could see the fluid a little ways down.. NO fluid came out of the hose.
Last edited by phreaktor; 05-07-2012 at 04:01 AM.
05-07-2012, 05:57 AM
#30
Registered User
No coolant came out of the bottom hose? You checked radiator for restriction? I couldnt see the pic you posted, did the old ts brak apart? Pressurization sounds good for pump and cap functional.
05-12-2012, 10:33 AM
#31
FIXED!! Ran the car with the rad cap off til it warmed up, revved to 3K for 10 seconds, mad bubbles, let it cool, refill,. repeat, put cap on when the level no longer dropped, cracked open bleeder while running until all the air was out and refilled. Hot heat and no issues.
Thanks guys.
Thanks guys.
05-13-2012, 07:41 AM
#34
^ Yep. It's ALWAYS air. Phreaktor's T-stat was probably fine but when a bubble rests against it the heart can't transfer well enough to trigger it to open.
I don't have the magic funnel, but I followed the filing instructions very carefully and I think that is important. You fill it extremely slowly.
I don't have the magic funnel, but I followed the filing instructions very carefully and I think that is important. You fill it extremely slowly.
05-29-2012, 06:32 PM
#35
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: naperville,il
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My 2008 just did the same yesterday, just took in the shop for the same problem except I did leak coolant but then once I refilled it nothing leaked, I couldn't hearvor see the cooling fans turn on either, fuses were ok ,oil was good didn't smell like.coolant, so im assuming its the thermastat, odd thing was my AC wasnt as cold as usual
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