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What was the issue when you started misfiring/flashing CEL?
My 04 Z started this immediately after a rear brake job attempt tonight (lower caliper guide pins are seized ugh). I’m thinking it’s the weirdest coincidence ever as they have nothing to do with each other, but I digress.
I know this can be attributed to a fouled plug or bad coil pack/MAF sensor according to what I’ve read here. I am taking it to Auto Zone to have the codes pulled tomorrow but I want to get ahead of this. I know it was already throwing a code for an O2 sensor and camshaft position sensor. Is this related to the cam sensor code or a whole separate issue considering the CEL is now flashing for the first time? What is most common culprit in your experience? Thanks!
Torrey
Last edited by phreaktor; Jul 6, 2019 at 05:57 PM.
For starters, there is no way your CEL/misfire is related to your brake job.
Not sure what to say about this question though. The problem will be, well, related to whatever your CEL indicates. It could be from your camshaft sensor or it could be from a bad plug. Pull your codes and start from there.
I have a 2003 350z (that I bought new). I've experienced misfiring; and the causes were crankshaft position sensor, camshaft position sensor, and coil pack. All three were diagnosed correctly by codes read by Consult.
Had misfires 2 different times. Both times they were only showing as random misfires. The first time I lazy and just changed a few coil packs till the issue was fixed. The second time (2 yrs later), I used Cipher and turned off each cylinder 1 by 1 until I found the one that wasn't firing and a new coil pack fixed the issue.
Usually a coil pack. Most of the coil failures I've seen are caused by oil in the spark plug tubes, which was remedied by replacing the valve cover and coil.
Ok so here are the current codes: P0305 and P0037. For some reason, it’s no longer throwing the Camshaft Position Sensor code that’s its had for a year or so that used to cause the car to stall and limp. Does the P0305 (Cylinder 5 Misfire) supersede the CPS code or something? Can the misfire be caused by that sensor or is it more likely to be the coil pack and or spark plug? Also which physical O2 sensor is Bank 1 Sensor 2? Scan results
provides very good advice here. I replaced two ignition coils before discovering that the valve cover and gasket was the culprit needing replacement. After replacing these parts, my problem went away. I'm guessing but do think you have a problem with the ignition coil. Depending upon your car's mileage, you might want to consider replacing the valve covers and gaskets.
Originally Posted by i8acobra
Usually a coil pack. Most of the coil failures I've seen are caused by oil in the spark plug tubes, which was remedied by replacing the valve cover and coil.
Pull coil #5, check if the bottom is wet with oil. If it is, replace the valve cover and coil. If it's dry, swap it with coil #3. Clear codes and drive. If the misfire moves to cylinder #3 (P0303), then the coil is bad. If it doesn't move, check the plug. If it's good, swap injectors #3 and #5. Again, if the misfire moves, it's the injector. If not, it's time to do a compression and leak down test. A bad crank sensor will trip a P0300 multi-cylinder misfire, not a single cylinder.
Codes do not indicate failed parts. what so ever...
If you plugs look like that you need new valve cover. and gasket.
or you will just continue to missfire due to the oil on the plug/boot in the well.
The code went from P0305 to P0303 when the coil was moved from cylinder 5 to 3. The code itself doesn't mean the coil is bad, the fact that the misfire followed the coil is what means the coil is bad. That being said, the coil went bad because of the oil in the tube. That much oil on the spark plug socket means the coil tube had oil in it. Replace the valve cover. It's also a good idea to replace the plugs too, since you're there.
The misfire went away with the new coil about a week ago. We just had a downpour (vented hood) and I drove the car about a mile and it started slightly misfiring. It didn’t run as rough as previously. I checked the codes using the pedal method and it’s throwing P0030 and P0037 which are both O2 sensors on bank 1, which at least one of has been a problem for some time. Would they actually cause the car to run roughly? It’s not quite as noticeable when accelerating as it was when there was a cylinder misfire code. Yes I know I need to change the valve covers as well.
It's interesting that "just had a downpour (vented hood) and I drove the car about a mile and it started slightly misfiring." That sounds like a secondary complication: Moisture in the engine bay that is causing a ground fault.
It's interesting that "just had a downpour (vented hood) and I drove the car about a mile and it started slightly misfiring." That sounds like a secondary complication: Moisture in the engine bay that is causing a ground fault.
I’ve had that happen before being that I have a carbon fiber hood, but this rough idea isn’t going away. It’s not really a misfire like with the coil before. I’m replacing both sensors this week. Kind of annoying that I just hit 150K and my cam/O2 sensors and the coil are going bad all at once. At least they’re cheap parts and easy jobs. The valve covers look like a major pain in the ***** though. Not looking forward to do that in this heat. (NJ)
Last edited by phreaktor; Jul 21, 2019 at 04:18 AM.
Valve covers aren't that bad for the most part. However, those bolts towards the firewall will make you want to rethink your life if you don't have the right combination of extensions/swivel joints. Also, make sure you have a torque wrench that measures in-lbs so you don't overtorque everything when you're reassembling.
What was the issue when you started misfiring/flashing CEL?
