I've been lurking for a while but this is my first post. I have an 03 350z enthusiast with 123k miles.

Earlier today i was driving when suddenly the car would not go past ~2k rpms and the throttle became unresponsive. Went into neutral and the car revved just fine. Decided to turn around and go back home. On the way home no CEL or any other lights turned on besides the SLIP, TCS, BRAKE, and ABS which have been on for a long time (i am running 18's with big stretch all around/camber up front which is probably why those are on). Car started just fine without hesitation before all of this. Turned the car off when i got home and waited a few hours to try and drive again to see if anything would come up. Went to turn the car on now it won't start.

The car does crank, all fuses are good, fuel pump primes, battery is fairly new, voltage gauge reads 12V in accessory mode, and checked for the rubber grommet behind the gas pedal which was also fine. I don't have a scanner so i tried the self diag. test which just threw P0000 which means no codes are present.

I'm leaning towards a bad alternator but wouldn't that have caused a chain reaction of codes, the battery light to turn on, or the voltage gauge to drop on the way back home? Or could it be the crank position sensor?

 

You're guessing without a code reader. Get one, basic OBD scanners are cheap.

Clue: most common trigger of Brake, Slip, TCS is cam sensors, followed by crank sensor which CAN put your car into limp mode, which is surely what it's doing. But again, only way to get a 90% probable cause is looking for the P03xx, P04xx or other related or completely random codes.

 

I forgot to mention the TCS SLIP ABS and BRAKE lights turn on as the car starts rolling forward not when the car is first turned on, don't know if that changes the possibility of it being cam sensors. As for CEL code reading, would the self diag. test (CEL blinks in 4 segments, the amount of blinks in each segment = numbers for code) not be sufficient? I'm gonna pick up a scanner tomorrow regardless but just wondering

 

but that makes entirely too much sense Mic... obviously he isnt too bright since he is running "big stretch" and part of the camber retard gang

 

awww did a teen hurt your feelings LOL. Notice how i said camber up front NOT all around. I run -9 degrees of camber up front to maximize lead wheel contact patch when drifting. Seems like you're on the same retard boat as me because you didn't know how that worked. Now i know stretched tires are impractical but guess what i do before a track day? I change wheel and tire setups, who would've thought!! Based on other threads it seems like you're more of a nuisance than actually helpful so why are you even here? If it's some sort of childhood trauma there's people out there that can help you overcome those traumas

 

no not at all... just pointing out the stupidity. luckily thankgiving is right around the corner, we might have a new contender. dont like my post, cry me a river and put me on ignore

 

Update: just scanned every system in the car and only have the C1127 which says "RR RH Out ABS Solenoid" no other codes are present. Battery also seems to be getting drained, car won't crank anymore

 

you said you are running 18's that are streched, what is the wheel and tire size that you have (happy that I am assisting?)

 

about time haha

the ABS SLIP TRAC and BRAKE lights first came on in April this year, which is when i started running Enkei 370z stocks, 18x9 +15 squared with 215/35 in the front and 235/45 in the rear. In August i started running 18x10.5 with a 225/40 in the rear and kept the 18x9 215/35 in the front.

 

i am thinking that the smaller wheels are screwing with the speed sensors, you are essentially rolling on rubber bands (because really narrow, super stretched tire). looks like your front tires are about 6" in circumference smaller than stock sizes, and rear is 1" smaller. have a feeling your fronts are causing the issue





with the August setup

 

The car originally came with the 17in. stock 7 spoke wheels and 225/50 tires. I still have the old pair from my previous setup so i can throw those on in the front for the meantime. But now the starting issue, if the 18x9 235/45 setup is on the car in the front, how will the car know if it won't start now? Should i try jump starting?

 

does it crank like it wants to but not do anything else? with the car being 20 years old, over 100k miles... the camshaft and crank sensor might be acting up, and no they dont always throw codes

 

Yesterday afternoon it was still cranking, voltage gauge on the car read around 12V in accessory mode. Today after i scanned for codes i tried to start it but it won't even crank now. Voltage gauge read around 11V.

 

how old is the battery?

 

Less than 4 months old

 

Just got the battery tested it was dead, got a new one and the car started, voltage gauge read 12V when it's supposed to be 14V when it's running so i'm replacing the alternator

 

Well, Trav was dead on because therein lay your problem. (I assumed you had a stock setup not this janky weird setup.) You must have TCS or VDC. Said systems are looking for 3% +/- 0.25% delta between front and rear. The 215/35 and 235/45 setup is running some 9.5% delta (about 2.4" delta F/R!). VDC/TCS is triggering because the speed sensors are telling the ECM that the front tires are spinning out (when in reality, they're just running greater than 3.25% more rotations/ft than the rear, hence SLIP/VDC.

The car doesn't know the tires are that far off until the car is moving so the speed sensors can do their thing.

Stop throwing parts at the car. Did whoever test the battery just put a VOM on it and read 12v? Or, did they do the proper thing and load test the system to determine whether it's a bad alternator/regulator or just a plain bad battery?? Happens more than you think. Batteries built nowadays are pure crap. It might indeed be the alternator but don't put one on until you determine what's actually f'd up.

Nothing worse than trial & error (the old toss parts method) of car repair. Especially nowadays with technology both inside and outside of the car to get you close to root cause before you turn a single wrench.

 

Forgot to update but the battery was load tested. Replaced the alternator which was the problem car is now running.

As for the wheel/tire setup, i've been wanting to get 215/40 in the front and 235/40 in the rear, which would leave the difference at 2.4% or .6" which should be in the green right? (Front: 24.8" Rear: 25.4"). The original stock tire setup was 225/50r17 all around meaning there was a 0% difference. As for the janky setup it's just what the wheels came with and the tires were good so i haven't bothered replacing tires

 

Hey guys, I'm having a similar issue with my 2007 350z. I just test drove it after fixing a few issues and it went back into limp mode on the road and wouldn't go above 1500~ rpms. Threw an abs code C1127 for Right Rear ABS Solenoid. I recently replaced the ac ***** along with the white bcm box (i put my original box back in which is what let me finally drive it). Before that I did replace the crank position sensor and 3 wheel barring's. However I didn't replace the right rear wheel barring this time. I replaced it months ago because it started going out since the wheel was caked in rust dust and the barring was wobbling when i took the rotor off and tried moving it to test.

Could a c1127 abs code cause occasional limp mode? It wouldn't make sense to me since my abs light has been on for a while but didn't get a good code reader until now to diagnose properly. As far as the tire size, I run 18x8.5 i believe. The tire size I put on them are the stock tire size that's on the label in the drive side door frame (besides being 18's).

My best guess is maybe the abs solenoid is coverd in rust dust still and needs to be cleaned, maybeee a cam pos sensor is out and no codes, or maybe something else. Any ideas or experiences with this? The car does crank and drive but has a chance to go into limp mode while driving now. Before it would go into limp mode before it finished warming up the motor so within the first 30 seconds of cranking it. However that was before I fixed the bcm problem which threw up every solenoid being out so maybe this one being possibly covered in rust dust is my problem. Going to go try to clean it now.