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Old 02-16-2012, 12:34 PM
  #261  
mgrotel
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id be happy with 7200, i think the cutout will help
Old 02-16-2012, 01:54 PM
  #262  
0jiggy0
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Originally Posted by mgrotel
yea, ill check it. if it is low, i guess i need a new oil pump then???
Thats the number one suspect, but other reasons can cause it. IT's more then worth the piece of mind.
Old 02-17-2012, 07:07 AM
  #263  
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raised the idle with cipher and added 2* of timing. havent heard the rattle anymore so thats good i guess
Old 02-17-2012, 07:08 AM
  #264  
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im gonna be sooooo pissed off if that oil pump is bad, that is not an easy part to replace
Old 02-17-2012, 10:10 AM
  #265  
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You will make your power from cam phasing
Old 02-18-2012, 12:32 PM
  #266  
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well, from what ive read, the min oil pressure at idle is consdered 14psi, please advise if that is incorrect. i finally measured oil pressure on my car, and it seems fine to me, here are some pics and the associated rpms

startup, about 1200-1300 rpm: 37psi



adjust idle with cipher to allow it to go back down to 650rpm: 22psi



then used cipher again to have it idle at 900rpm: 28psi

Old 02-18-2012, 03:15 PM
  #267  
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yup, you are good, my car was down to 20 ish psi at idle until the motor broken in well. Then it went to a healthy 35psi
Old 02-18-2012, 08:17 PM
  #268  
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It fluctuated that much???
Old 02-18-2012, 09:36 PM
  #269  
Zazz93
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That's good, as for the noise, I know many of the timing chain tensioners seem to get noisy after they are pull off. Not sure why, but I know mine is a little noisy as well, but it clears up as soon as the oil pressure gets high enough.
Old 02-20-2012, 10:18 AM
  #270  
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So I guess I'll just raise the idle and not worry about it since it goes away with rpm
Old 02-21-2012, 02:07 AM
  #271  
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Originally Posted by mgrotel
It fluctuated that much???
Oil pressure changes for various reason. Good readings, piece of mind is a good thing.
Old 02-21-2012, 06:39 AM
  #272  
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Originally Posted by 0jiggy0
Oil pressure changes for various reason. Good readings, piece of mind is a good thing.
yea, i was pretty happy to see those numbers, so i guess i just wont worry about that terrible rattle and leave the idle high enough
Old 02-21-2012, 01:42 PM
  #273  
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so, the guy that assembled the block recommended just conventional oil, but i wanted to run synthetic through it to clean things out some, plus i ran can of seafoam through it too for a few miles. you guys think i should stay with synthetic or go to conventional oil?
Old 02-21-2012, 02:35 PM
  #274  
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Synthetic 5w40 all the way.
Old 02-21-2012, 10:33 PM
  #275  
bjmax
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Back again.. see you made some progress.. thats a good thing oil pressure looking good.. did you changed all the ruber oil rings between the chain tentioners and the block?
Old 02-22-2012, 04:58 AM
  #276  
denchan350gt
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Originally Posted by kacz07
Synthetic 5w40 all the way.
Why just wondering?
Old 02-22-2012, 06:09 AM
  #277  
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Originally Posted by bjmax
Back again.. see you made some progress.. thats a good thing oil pressure looking good.. did you changed all the ruber oil rings between the chain tentioners and the block?
i cant remember specifically, but i had a master gasket set, and replaced orings and gaskets whereever the factory service manual said to, so im sure i did.

where did the_coupe go? i think it might be the same issue he had, loud at startup but then fine once oil builds pressure
Old 02-22-2012, 07:01 AM
  #278  
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Originally Posted by denchan350gt
Why just wondering?
Higher shearing capacity is better for higher rpms and hard working engines. IPP recommended as high as 10w60 for my built motor built through them.

I have had a few turbos and I see a lot of other turbos running it, too.

Last edited by kacz07; 02-22-2012 at 07:02 AM.
Old 02-22-2012, 08:34 AM
  #279  
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that high of weight doesnt mess with the vct solenoids at all?
Old 02-22-2012, 08:54 AM
  #280  
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German Castrol acts like a 5w40 based on testing.

10w60 may be too high, though. I'll be updating my thread soon.


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