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Old 05-29-2012, 05:58 AM
  #341  
mgrotel
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Originally Posted by kacz07
I have the same rattle and have seen the inside of my timing cover scored by the timing chain. I use a Mobil1 filter, too.
what oil do you use? brand and weight? conventional or synthetic?
i think it can be the chain tensioner, but that doesnt make sense cause mine was brand new
Old 05-29-2012, 04:26 PM
  #342  
kacz07
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Mine was replaced, too. Mobil1 5w40. I've used as heavy as 10w60 with no real change on cold starts. Head milled too much causing slack in chain is really the only thing I can think of. HR gasket thinner? Idk.
Old 05-30-2012, 12:34 PM
  #343  
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i am going to try and log the int/v tim bank1 and 2 tonight, will post results if i get to it
Old 05-30-2012, 04:54 PM
  #344  
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Gotta love VQ's! I hope you get this all figured out though
Old 05-30-2012, 04:57 PM
  #345  
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Originally Posted by johnwigs
timing is off, intake sprocket/solenoid stuck open, or trigger wheel is off, those are the only things that could be wrong
monitor int/v tim b1 and b2... they should read 0+/-1 at idle and advance when you blip the throttle
ok, so just logged the intake timing advance on both banks. the bank 2 cam is being advanced with throttle. bank 1 on the other hand never goes outside of the -1.5,1.5 window, even with throttle. i also monitored engine speed and the intake cam solenoids, and both bank solenoids are working the same, so i think its safe to say those are ok. i logged the engine speed too, so if someone wants to look at my file i can send it to someone. other than that, based on the intake advance being dead on bank 1, does anyone have any ideas? safe to say it didnt jump a tooth? where do i go from here?
Old 05-31-2012, 08:33 AM
  #346  
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below is a cutout of part of a log i just did, the order is like this:

engine speed - b1 int tim adv - b2 int tim adv - b1 solenoid % - b2 solenoid %

863 0 1 0 0
963 0 1 0 0
1025 0 1 0 0
1088 0 1 0 0
1200 0 0 0 0
1325 0 0.5 58.8 57.6
1450 0 0.5 59.6 59.2
1563 1.5 2.5 57.6 56.5
1675 2.5 5 58.4 54.9
1825 2 9 63.1 54.1
1975 1.5 11 69.4 56.9
2075 1 14 74.1 56.9
2163 1 16 74.9 54.5
2300 1.5 20 74.5 49.8
2413 4.5 21.5 71.8 48.2
2575 1 24 76.9 44.7
2700 1.5 26.5 77.6 40.8
2800 3 27.5 75.7 40.8
2900 5 28.5 74.5 41.2
3000 4.5 29 75.7 41.6
3100 4 30 74.9 29
3200 3.5 30.5 74.1 26.7
3325 5 29.5 71.8 27.1
3413 5 28.5 71.4 28.2
3525 3.5 28 74.5 29.4
3663 5 26 68.2 28.2
3813 5 25 0 0
3875 1 21.5 0 0
3925 0.5 18 0 0
3950 0.5 14.5 0 0
3963 -1 8.5 0 0
3963 -1 3 0 0
3963 -1 0.5 0 0
3925 -0.5 0.5 0 0
3913 -0.5 0 0 0
3888 -0.5 0.5 0 0
3863 -0.5 0.5 0 0
Old 06-01-2012, 08:36 PM
  #347  
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solenoid % has nothing to do with the solenoid... it is just saying what the ECM is telling the solenoid to do... at least it ruled out the base timing being off... so now it is either wiring ECM->solenoid... or hydraulics.... could be lack of oil pressure on B1 or cam sprocket is full of junk... or just the solenoid has some crap stuck in it and isn't opening no matter what the ECM is telling it
Old 06-01-2012, 08:42 PM
  #348  
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Vince at RT hypothesized it was lack of pressure, the way the cams settle after the car is shut off, or a combo of both when the oil drains into the pans.
Old 06-02-2012, 07:52 AM
  #349  
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Originally Posted by johnwigs
solenoid % has nothing to do with the solenoid... it is just saying what the ECM is telling the solenoid to do... at least it ruled out the base timing being off... so now it is either wiring ECM->solenoid... or hydraulics.... could be lack of oil pressure on B1 or cam sprocket is full of junk... or just the solenoid has some crap stuck in it and isn't opening no matter what the ECM is telling it
Ok, the solenoid % makes sense, because the ECM is really trying to advance the b1 side. For example, the actual advance will be about 4* on b1 and about 30* on b2, but the solenoid % for b1 will be about double that of b2. So that tells me the ecu is doing its part on at least trying to get b1 to advance more. Can I rule out the ECU by that?

I swapped the solenoid again yesterday with one I had and it's no better, so I think I can rule out the solenoid, agree?

So down to wiring or the cam sprocket I guess. Any recommendation on how to proceed? Car throws the P0011 regularly and is noticeably down on power, especially midrange. With a high stall torque converter the midrange is painfully weak. Car has hard starts sometimes, sometimes starts super easy, thanks

Last edited by mgrotel; 06-02-2012 at 07:55 AM.
Old 06-02-2012, 08:02 AM
  #350  
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Originally Posted by kacz07
Vince at RT hypothesized it was lack of pressure, the way the cams settle after the car is shut off, or a combo of both when the oil drains into the pans.
I'm guessing you are referring to the noise on cold starts here? Did it do a lot of scoring to the timing chain case when you looked at it? I have royal purple 5w30in now and it seems to be a little worse. Might go with thicker and conventional. Might have the dealer change the tensioner cause maybe I put the new one on incorrectly or something. Are you just planning on living with that noise? It's embarrassing
Old 06-02-2012, 08:06 AM
  #351  
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Originally Posted by mgrotel
I'm guessing you are referring to the noise on cold starts here? Did it do a lot of scoring to the timing chain case when you looked at it? I have royal purple 5w30in now and it seems to be a little worse. Might go with thicker and conventional. Might have the dealer change the tensioner cause maybe I put the new one on incorrectly or something. Are you just planning on living with that noise? It's embarrassing
I am not trying to start an oil debate or uproar but I just had my 4.08 and quaife reinstalled and the differential specialist said the warranty would be void if I used RP.

He insisted on only Amsoil syn or Mobil 1 dyno.

Last edited by e30cabrio; 06-03-2012 at 12:55 PM.
Old 06-03-2012, 12:19 PM
  #352  
Classy
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I never have been a fan of the royal purple band wagon. If your cam gear is advancing like it is supposed to, it is working. When my car did it's first starts at Uprev, my driver's side intake sprocket was frozen and it did a flat 0 for retard and advance when it was hooked up to the computer. I think your car is advancing like it should, I think there might be something to the resurfacing the heads/block and the chain itself being loose from it. I don't know, I hate seeing you in this spot... I wish I could have just sold you my engine, lol
Old 06-03-2012, 04:49 PM
  #353  
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Originally Posted by Classy
I never have been a fan of the royal purple band wagon. If your cam gear is advancing like it is supposed to, it is working. When my car did it's first starts at Uprev, my driver's side intake sprocket was frozen and it did a flat 0 for retard and advance when it was hooked up to the computer. I think your car is advancing like it should, I think there might be something to the resurfacing the heads/block and the chain itself being loose from it. I don't know, I hate seeing you in this spot... I wish I could have just sold you my engine, lol
what was the cause of your "no advance/retard" problem at uprev? how did you fix it? sounds just like mine, the drivers side will not advance properly despite the ecu telling it to. my passenger side will advance to 30* with just a throttle blip, the drivers side never above 5*. this is definitely not normal operation and i can feel it in the powerband, not to mention the p0011 code on a regular basis.
Old 06-03-2012, 04:53 PM
  #354  
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and about the oil, i think i might try a 10w30 conventional and see what that does for the cold start timing chain rattle
Old 06-04-2012, 02:36 AM
  #355  
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Oh, I thought it was advancing, ya, my drier's side cam sprocket was shot, I got a limp tune from Uprev, drove it home, got a new sprocket and a week or so later went down to Uprev again and it was working perfectly
Old 06-04-2012, 04:32 AM
  #356  
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Also, it made a pretty consistent tapping noise, I drove it around without a hood so I could hear it to make sure it didn't get worse, haha
Old 06-04-2012, 05:33 AM
  #357  
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hmmm, how loud of a tap?
did you have to remove the timing cover to replace it?
Old 06-04-2012, 10:12 AM
  #358  
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You have to remove the cover to replace it, it wasn't as loud as my #6 piston slapping around with no rings, it is pretty audiable
Old 06-04-2012, 01:25 PM
  #359  
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just the sprocket cover? or do you mean the whole timing cover?
and you had a piston in the block with out rings? whoa, lol
Old 06-04-2012, 03:18 PM
  #360  
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The whole reason I did a motor build is because my motor was knocking away! The whole sprocket needs to be replaced, and yes, I know how big of a pain it is to pull the front timing cover off while it the engine is in the car... I did it to fix my car, but ya, after that, ran like a champ, about 10k miles of no problems at all, and whoever the luck **** is who bought my 350z is will probably never have a problem with the motor...


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