So you removed the whole front timing cover to replace it?

 

You have too... You can't get that sprocket out without doing it, and retiming everything is a lot easier with the cover off. It took a few hours with everything, it isn't that bad of a job compared to some to the stuff with the engine

 

son of a *****, that isnt what i wanted to hear, lol
im so sick of it all honestly

 

That is why I sold mine, I got sick of the VQ motors

 

I replaced my passenger side sprocket, etc. because that is what failed. How did you know it was your driver's side? The car runs wells and was messed up when the passenger side failed.

 

Sorry you are having issues. It is possible to get these dialed in, mine is running perfectly. (hopefully oc won't return)

 

i know it is the drivers side for a couple reasons, first i am getting a p0011 code which is the drivers side cam advance, and second i logged data with cipher and the drivers side is not advancing properly with throttle like the passenger side is. maybe this will also fix the rattle on cold starts

 

mine does all that as well. I'm prolly gonna replace the pulley this winter. gotta decide if I want the Nismo ones though. 50* of advance would prolly gain me 40 or 50 more whp thru my midrange.

 

will the nismo ones just bolt onto a de motor? work with my nonrev de ecu and everything? obviously it would be in the tune to advance that much, but is the capability there with the nonrev de ecu?

and about the midrange, mine is painfully slow right now especially with a high stall converter. if almost feels like compression is low and im waiting for a turbo to spool.

str8dum, have you logged data and you are also not advancing on the drivers b1 side?

 

The nismo ones gave me questions, like of I installed one would say 30 degrees of advance on a stock gear be more at the same pressure that the solenoid pushes out?? I could see that being a large issue if you don't tune it asap

 

it advances but is very noisy (in terms to how stably it holds the advance). i need to put a scope on the wires before I do anything else.

the pulleys bolt right on. THe stock pullleys are mechanically limited to 40*, not oil pressure. I'd imagine the pressure/degree advance is the same. These just let you tell the computer to run the solenoid more to let them advance further.

 

How far can you advance them safely, though? That's what held me back when I ran into my issues.

 

should i scope my wires probably before i tear into vtc pulley replacement when the motor is in the car?
and is there anything else i should try before i replace it?

 

or is there ANY WAY to verify for sure that the vtc solenoid is the root cause of the issue?

 

classy,
did you need to take any coolant hoses off to change it?
did you need to pull the valve covers to time it again?
im guessing so

 

I did not pull the valve covers, I ended up pulling the radiator completely out to use a pulley puller to get my ati pulley off

Timing was really easy, I remember doing it pretty fast

I remember pulling the alternator and power steering was the biggest pain in the butt

 

i would def scope the cam sensor as well as the IVT solenoid.

make sure the IVT solenoid is getting the signal and make sure that the cam sensor is reading the position properly.

 

what do you mean by scope, just check voltage?

 

classy, how did you determine that the vtc sprocket was the problem for sure before you replaced it?

 

It wasn't advancing/retarding, the wires from the ecu to the solenoid checked out, we swapped out a new solenoid, swapped ecu's and nothing changed, I am not sure what else we could have checked