Awesome. Sometimes its something so stupid and random. How the hell did you figure that one out?

 

^i would love to take credit for it, but that just is not the case.

someone suggested it was coming from the bottom end, so i drove it to the machine shop that put the bottom end together. he didnt think it was the bottom end, so he went next door to a mechanic shop and asked him to listen to it. i dropped the idle back down to the stock level so it would be super loud. within two seconds of hearing it, he said torque converter bolts. he didnt even know it was an auto at that point yet. dude was smart.

looking back, i should have just kept tinkering around with it, because when i couldnt find where it was coming from with the mechanics stethoscope on the timing chain case, heads, or intake, i just should have crawled under the car with the scope and might have found it that way. o well, who cares, all i know is that i was one happy little ricer when the noise went away. stock idle now, and purrs like a kitten, with the occasional hiccup from the cams of course.

 

need to fix oil leak, install cutout, and put 255 walbro in and then i think im set to get tuned

 

and then its time for a trip to Las Vegas...come visit buddy!

 

ill still come down, but i think i am going to get tuned at this elevation instead. i need another vegas trip anyway.

update:
leaks fixed
torque converter being loose screwed up the trans
trans is now rebuilt, will be in the car by this weekend
still need to install 255 walbro
still need to install cutout
change of plans to do direct port nitrous, 180 hp shot
then tune

 

whoa, look who is still around! 180hp direct port nitrous shot would be crazy!

 

Nice. Looking forward to seeing some changes in the nitrous set ups.

 

 

Nifty spot to put nitrous ports, pain in the dick to work on!!! I want to see this all done with

 

hee, good to hear it was nothing in the VQ.. but on it.. ;-)

 

Are you building your trans with better clutches or buying one already built?

 

was going to put better clutches in, but the trans guy got the clutches and said they were the same material as stock but thinner, fitting 6 instead of 5, so he recommended putting stock in, so thats what i did.

 

ok, so get the car back from the shop and im getting a p0335 and p0011. power is spotty every once in a while, but for the most part runs fine. i took it back but they cant figure it out. i am going to change the oil, filter, and clean the MAF sensor. then i will try to have the tcu reset at the dealer, because the transmission guy said it might need it, but im skeptical on that one. I have had this transmission out before. after that, i guess i can change the cam sensor. the crank sensor was just changed. if those all fail, any other ideas? this car should have been tuned by now!

 

i have cipher, so if there are certain parameters that i should log, please let me know

 

on cold starts only, i do get some timing chain or vtc rattle for 1-2 seconds, along with the oil light for the same amount of time. the two vtc solenoids are brand new as of a couple days ago. hopefully one of my chains didnt jump a tooth during one of those cold starts and is now off. i guess i will start with the easy stuff like i said earlier. anyone have any other ideas???

 

timing is off, intake sprocket/solenoid stuck open, or trigger wheel is off, those are the only things that could be wrong
monitor int/v tim b1 and b2... they should read 0+/-1 at idle and advance when you blip the throttle
rattle on cold start is caused from using a cheap oil filter that does not have an anti drain back causing the oil to run back down into your oil pan causing a "dry start" during cold starts (hence the oil light on)
I have told you this before... advise from someone is only as good as the person applying it

 

you had those 2 codes before your trans repair?

 

oil filter is a wix filter with a drain valve in it. and both of the solenoids are brand new. the only way my timing is if it jumped a tooth, which i doubt. what is the trigger wheel?

 

no, i had no codes whatsoever before the repair. what i did have were loose torque converter bolts, and a leaky *** motor caused by the loose bolts. now i have these codes after i get the car back. they cant figure it out. ive had the car back multiple times to them.

 

I have the same rattle and have seen the inside of my timing cover scored by the timing chain. I use a Mobil1 filter, too.