Sorry man but this statement here is contradicting itself. While you don't need to spend millions to go faster, the first thing you must understand with the 350z is that you gotta pay to play.

 

So I assume that you are a baller considering you OWN a car in kuait it's a z. Just take it to one of the local shops and give them ur money and thier discretion. Middle east tuners are mad scientist anyways..

 

if i do what?

 

With na mods and 4.083 gears on an HR you will probably never reach the lower top end of >170 mph anyways so it doesnt matter.

 

so its means only the 6th gear will be shorter ? or all the gears ?

 

All the gears will be shorter! Read up in the drivetrain section. All the info you need can be found in a "sticky" at the top.. Gears are simply a torque modifier! For drift, this is a wise investment.

Stock FD is a very weak 3.5FD! Gears are spread wide! There are video's on Utube of test drivers complaining how the 380RS shouldn't be called an RS, due to it's gearing! Lots of complaints performance wise on Nissan's gear ratio's.

NA gears are a must! You will loose top end that you will most likely never hit anyways! I have done 165 in my car with RPM to spare.

 

cool !
how much it cost ?

 

Gears are only around $450 but I recommend doing the Diff while your in there. A good diff is another $1400-1500 + labor! The factory open diff and VLSD suck ***! It's prolly the best NA mod out there!

 

thank u man =D
but is it tomei ? or nismo or there is only 1 type ?

 

We used the Nissan Frontier 4.08 gears! What diff you choose is upto you! Some use quaife, OS Giken, Cusco, Carbonetics, nismo

https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-...d-reviews.html

They all have pros and cons! Best to read the reviews. Quaife is very quiet and reliable. So many of us run them.

Zim

 

which one is shorter ? 3.9 or 4.083 ?

and can u give me an example the 1th gear and 2th gear what speed it hit the full rpm ?

like example the regular gear 1th 60km , 2th gear 110km

so the 3.9 gear at what speed it will hit the full rpm (red line )
and also the 4.083 ?

thank u so much i really appreciated that man

 

https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-...installed.html

Speed and RPM can be found on the first page of this thread for all gears and engines!

For every turn of the driveshaft your rear wheels will turn 4.083 turns with a 4.08FD. For every turn of the drive shaft with a 3.9FD your wheels will turn 3.9 turns. The stock 3.5FD for every one turn of the driveshaft your rear wheels will turn 3.5 turns!

 

thank u man =)

ok my car has 60,000 mile , so i just will buy 4.08 gears see the link and tell me if im right ?

http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35...oducts_id=4523

Included in the install kit:

2 X Nissan OEM Differential Side Carrier Bearings
2 X Nissan OEM Differential Side Oil Seals
1 X Nissan OEM Inner "Back" Pinion Gear Bearing
1 X Nissan OEM Outer "Front" Pinion Gear Bearing
1 X Nissan OEM Pinion Oil Seal
1 X Permatex Ultra Gray Gasket Maker

and is there something oem i must change it and get if from nissan ? or i must order special bearings and these staff ?
?

or i must take
kit 1 (crush collar, pinion seal, pinion nut)
4.08 + Install kit 1 + Install kit 2 (new output shaft bearings, pinion bearings, ring gear bolts, side flange seals
?!

i saw that in the site and i confused a little :
4.08 ring and pinion: $590 shipped
4.08 + Install kit 1 (crush collar, pinion seal, pinion nut): $615 shipped
4.08 + Install kit 1 + Install kit 2 (new output shaft bearings, pinion bearings, ring gear bolts, side flange seals (highly recommended for cars with more than 25k milesand/or where you don't want any guesswork involved, ) - $900 shipped

https://my350z.com/forum/drivetrain/...-in-stock.html


am asking u just to be sure =)


please help =(

 

Stroker long tubes exhaust some cams a little head work and an uprev tune along with some suspension and gears will put a smile on your face but a whole in your wallet

 

after my research i find out the best mods for my HR are ;p :

tomei Headers V2
tomei test pipe
tomei procams Intake 264- 10.8mm Lift/Exhaust 264- 10.8mm Lift, and springs valves
injen air intake long
pullays
final drive nismo 4.08
catback exhaust
flywheel and stage 2 clutch

and finally up rev tune

i hope reach 310 - 320 whp

did i forget about something ?

 

In your original post you mentioned what amounts to a full engine tear down. Pistons, Rods, ARP studs, Cams, Valve springs is no picnic. Safe to assume that you'll have someone else do this work for you. The list you have here amounts to a hefty price tag. You're talking about 15K with labour if you are lucky and believe me when I say lucky because there's always something else you'll need or have forgotten about or "want". On top of that you aren't even in FI land yet. That will cost you another 15k with labour and will most likely negate some of your previous mods. I could go on forever about parts and what's better (some call it a disease) but if I could have done it differently from the beginning instead of attempting to stay NA I would have gone FI immediately. You would be sooooooo much better served to slap on a TT or SC on a stock block and then worry about all the things you'll need after that. Call it more effective long-term use of your money because you'll change your mind just like I and so many others out there have and are happy they did. Plus, it will be way more fun in the meantime.

But if you can be swayed to go the FI route instead of NA then for your 15-20K you can build yourself a 500hp car that can be your daily driver.

On another note, your list of parts includes long headers (emissions would be a concern and if you go TT would need to be replaced). 280 cams is extreme, I'm looking at the Quaife LSD and 3.9 gears to go with my Vortech Stage 3 setup.

PM me if you need advice, I've put upwards of 40K into my 04 roadster over the last 5 years and have encountered many pitfalls along the way. If i can help anybody avoid some of the problems, I've run into I can call it my good deed for the day.

Rob

 

If you were willing to throw down that much money id say boost like everyone else.

But since you wanna Stay NA (which can very much respect) Do the Gears and preferable the diff. With basic bolt ons (Intake exhaust maybe headers up to you and test pipes or HFC)and tune and I promise you will be very very happy and feel a HUGE difference

 

didnt notice date

 

Tomei is overpriced crap - Stick with JWT for cams and pick REAL long tubes, not that garbage ShortTube header they are trying to pawn off on people.