Whats making you want to sell your TT kit if you dont mind me asking?

 

I spent almost $25k and in the last 15 months I drove the car for less than 5 months and the rest is in the shop

I'm done with FI. At least with the VQ's.

 

stories like this keeps me from jumping in that rabbit hole...

I've heard only good things about teh NOS yo but I been saving none the less and weighting my options on boths....

 

Has anyone tried direct port wet shot on the HR yet? Also i have been searching around about how to hide the purge valve so when you purge the system its not seen or as loud. I saw on the LS forums someone said you could purge into your exhaust? Wouldnt that let exhaust gases bleed into your lines?

 

The exhaust would not get into your lines. The amount of pressure in the lines far outreaches the pressure in the exhaust system, not to mention the purge solenoid stays closed. But, there are other places to purge. The temp of the purge gasses is really cold so consider using that to your advantage by purging onto something you want to keep cool like the intake plenum or transmission pan. There are plenty of options.

 

Completely disagree, most road courses have one long straightaway where some juice would be perfect. With a full bottle, you would get plenty of laps in before you ran out of nitrous. A bottle heater and remote pressure gauge would ensure the correct pressure was maintained. I plan to do this as well. But, do not spray on the turns and check the rules of the course to make sure nitrous is allowed.

 

Ok cool i think ill go with purging into my exhaust. Is the direct port really any better than the zex wet kit for the hr?

 

Dont hate me for asking........But has anyone did a NOS kit on a Auto? I hate it but I bought a Roadster thinking I would just drive it and enjoy it.....But I want to do as much as I can to it.........But I want a little more power for now.....Thanks In Advance....

 

Yes, I'm auto. Just make sure your window is set high enough

 

Wanted to add something to this. Keep in mind that UTEC only works for the DE and will not work for th HR. Don't ask me how I know

 

Hmm I got a question, I went to performance shop a while back (like a month ago) and was talking about installing nitrous, I mentioned using utec. They said utec is outdated and that I should use osiris or was it orisis. Anyone know here what other systems aside from utec are available?

 

You can use Osiris to put a tune on your z that has variables to include the nitrous...

 

There are many options available but the most popular right now in Osiris. Check the tuning forum for more information.

 

So Utec is outdated f/ the HR....go with osiris? This whole time I thought that the UTEC was some kind of management system for nitrous applications specifically? All in all it is just a simple tuner??.....

#1 great thread....just read the whole thing and I already have a pretty good idea of whats going on.

My main question after reading all this is how difficult would this install be for someone who has never done it before? And would it come out safe.
I am pretty mechanically inclined and try to do as much work as I can on my vehicles. Also, this would be a winter project where my car is in the garage so I would have more than ample time to make sure it comes out good. (sort of a perfectionist too)

I am also curious as to if anyone has ran nitrous w/ a 4.08 gear setup? This mod is in my sites probably going to happen w/in the next month or two. I have read here some of your concerns about loosing traction. With nitrous, how much traction are you really loosing? Right now I am running stock 18" wheels with 225's on front and 245's in rear. I am planning on getting 19" wheels with some 10.5's in the rear and the hancook v12's. With the gears I am also going with a 1.5 way LSD (undecided thus far).
Overall I plan on using the nitrous from a roll. Should I still be worrying about traction problems using nitrous with a gear setup?
-Zac

 

How difficult depends on your level of inclination, physical abilities, reading comprehension, and general problem solving skill.

With more power, you go through the gears faster (better acceleration). Shorter gears allows for greater acceleration. Put them together and the first 2 gears will be utterly useless as you won't catch traction. Just sit there and think about how each will affect your car. You'll find that you will answer your own question with what the pros/cons of each and the combined will be.

 

I dnt really care about 1 an 2 gear....id prolly be sprayin mostly from a roll in 3rd and 4th....by the way sum were talkin on here tho its like they never have traction......

 

After a run if you get down to 700-800 psi (guessing) how long would it take to heat it back up to 1000 psi-ish.....I've heard some say 10+ minutes....seems kind of long. I've also read some people saying certain bottle warmers = crap....which are the better ones??

 

You shouldn't lose that much psi after 1 run, even if you spray in every gear. If I used my through 2 gears I probably only lose about 20 psi give or take.

How much content you have in your bottle will determine how fast it heats up. The more the faster. With a half full to full bottle you should be able to heat up from 800 to 1000 in 5 minutes or less. Again, this is just my experience with my Dynotune setup.

I prefer automatic heaters that read based off psi, not temperature. Temperature based heaters won't be accurate every time. 1000 psi with a 1/4 filled bottle requires more heat than 1000 psi at 3/4 full.

 

Good info but you guys are replying to a almost 4 year old thread.

 

Mehh...figured it wasnt worth startin a new thread so when im readin through stuff ill just resurrect the thread if i have a question lol.....
This nitrous section is dead anyways!! Maybe i shuld start new threads!