Nitrous Basics Thread, read here if you want nitrous for the first time....
I'd say any aftermarket clutch that is meant/designed to hold more power, stage 1 or stage 2 I'd say, is fine.
I personally have the Exedy Stage 1 clutch with the stock flywheel.
I personally have the Exedy Stage 1 clutch with the stock flywheel.
well i have stage 2 act clutch and a streetlight lightweight flywheel i beleive it was. u will be fine with any just make sure u know a lightweight flywheel has chatter when idle is low and under certain rpm's driving some worse than others, mine is not too bad
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...endations.html...
i searched for 2 seconds, like i said gobbs of info on this site just keep looking in the right places....there were many other threads i saw while looking that also had great info.. read read read..
i searched for 2 seconds, like i said gobbs of info on this site just keep looking in the right places....there were many other threads i saw while looking that also had great info.. read read read..
The AFR on nitrous, I'd say should be in the 11s. Low 11s to be on the safe side and upper 11s for a slightly bigger increase in power. Anything lower or higher needs adjusting via the fuel shot and/or tune.
Ok guys, first of all.... Thanks for the thread, after reading the 8 pages you cleared 80% of my questions. However:
I bought a ZEX system from a fellow member and it's gonna be deliver next Tuesday. I have the UTEC from a long time, so, without knowing it seems a good combo.
I have cover the mechanics 101, but when it comes to electronics, my brain just die.... I can do most of the install, but is there any shop that you can recommend close to me? (Jeremy it seems you're the man, but too far from here, sorry!)
I need someone familiar enough with the UTEC & ZEX that can close the game, and have a safe setup.
Second, this is the kit:
https://my350z.com/forum/turbos-nitr...et-kit-fs.html
I'm planning to add a pressure gauge, but not sure if I'll need a blow down tube or any other part.
Finally, I don't know you guys, but could you guys start a thread with pics of your install? I have seen people hiding their system under bags, etc. I'm curious to see (and maybe copy) your creativity
Thanks in advance!!!
I bought a ZEX system from a fellow member and it's gonna be deliver next Tuesday. I have the UTEC from a long time, so, without knowing it seems a good combo.
I have cover the mechanics 101, but when it comes to electronics, my brain just die.... I can do most of the install, but is there any shop that you can recommend close to me? (Jeremy it seems you're the man, but too far from here, sorry!)
I need someone familiar enough with the UTEC & ZEX that can close the game, and have a safe setup.
Second, this is the kit:
https://my350z.com/forum/turbos-nitr...et-kit-fs.html
I'm planning to add a pressure gauge, but not sure if I'll need a blow down tube or any other part.
Finally, I don't know you guys, but could you guys start a thread with pics of your install? I have seen people hiding their system under bags, etc. I'm curious to see (and maybe copy) your creativity
Thanks in advance!!!
Your question should be in your regional forums, not here. And search would get you all the answers you're looking for (by searching for the threads created by the big names in the nitrous forum).
Anyway, here's my thread:
https://my350z.com/forum/nitrous-oxi...-play-too.html
Anyway, here's my thread:
https://my350z.com/forum/nitrous-oxi...-play-too.html
On the bottom left of each section, there is display options. If you keep it to what it originally is, which is to post up to last month, thats where you will get only 21 threads, but if you change it from beginning, you will get all the threads.
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As you guys should already know, with nitrous we should use copper spark plugs. Most of us use NGK's LFR6A-11 spark plugs, which is 1 step colder (that's what 6 stands for) and comes pre-gapped at .043" (as noted by -11, which signifies 1.1mm gap - technically .04331"). However, there isn't much in writing as to why a colder plug is needed nor why the gap should or shouldn't be adjusted.
While reading up on some spark plugs information, I found out that while a 1 step colder plug as-is should be relatively ok when adding spray/boost, it is highly recommended that we reduce the gap by ~.004" for every 50 hp added.
Rather than just following blindly by what we're told, now we know for certain why those recommendations exist. 
Hope this helps you guys.
While reading up on some spark plugs information, I found out that while a 1 step colder plug as-is should be relatively ok when adding spray/boost, it is highly recommended that we reduce the gap by ~.004" for every 50 hp added.
Originally Posted by SummitRacing (with my edits underlined)
Since a nitrous-injected engine consumes more fuel, you need to make sure you have the right spark plug to ignite the larger air/fuel mixture. There are three factors to consider when choosing a plug for your application: gap, heat range, and reach.
Spark plug gap is the distance between the ground electrode and the center electrode on the plug. When the ignition fires the plug, the spark jumps between these two electrodes and ignites the air/fuel mixture.
In nitrous applications, increased cylinder pressure makes it harder for the spark to jump the plug gap. For this reason, nitrous manufacturers recommend spark plugs with smaller gaps to ensure adequate spark--between .025 and .035 inches in most cases (you should start from the recommended gap at .043" and reduce appropriately based on your shot size). Some capacitive discharge style ignitions may be able to handle slightly larger gaps, but you should check your instructions for manufacturer recommendations. Use of oversized spark plug gaps may cause misfiring and overall power loss.
Heat range refers to the temperature of the ceramic material surrounding the center electrode in relation to how it dissipates heat. If the heat range is too hot, you could run into an overheated or pre-ignition condition. If the heat range is too cold, the plug won't burn off deposits and can become fouled.
A colder heat range plug works well with the increased cylinder pressures of nitrous applications. Most nitrous system manufacturers recommend moving to a spark plug heat range one to two steps below your existing plugs when (1-step is fine, as 2-step will be too much for wet shots regardless of shot size). Other companies, such as Edelbrock, advise their customers to drop the heat range one step for every 100 horsepower added by the nitrous system.
The final piece of the spark plug equation is reach, or the location of the electrode in the combustion chambers. Always use shorter, non-projected style spark plugs with nitrous systems. Because nitrous helps produce greater combustion heat and pressure, the longer electrodes on projected plugs are more likely to absorb heat, burn up, or cause pre-ignition. In some ultra-high horsepower applications, you may even want to shorten the length of the ground electrode.
Spark plug gap is the distance between the ground electrode and the center electrode on the plug. When the ignition fires the plug, the spark jumps between these two electrodes and ignites the air/fuel mixture.
In nitrous applications, increased cylinder pressure makes it harder for the spark to jump the plug gap. For this reason, nitrous manufacturers recommend spark plugs with smaller gaps to ensure adequate spark--between .025 and .035 inches in most cases (you should start from the recommended gap at .043" and reduce appropriately based on your shot size). Some capacitive discharge style ignitions may be able to handle slightly larger gaps, but you should check your instructions for manufacturer recommendations. Use of oversized spark plug gaps may cause misfiring and overall power loss.
Heat range refers to the temperature of the ceramic material surrounding the center electrode in relation to how it dissipates heat. If the heat range is too hot, you could run into an overheated or pre-ignition condition. If the heat range is too cold, the plug won't burn off deposits and can become fouled.
A colder heat range plug works well with the increased cylinder pressures of nitrous applications. Most nitrous system manufacturers recommend moving to a spark plug heat range one to two steps below your existing plugs when (1-step is fine, as 2-step will be too much for wet shots regardless of shot size). Other companies, such as Edelbrock, advise their customers to drop the heat range one step for every 100 horsepower added by the nitrous system.
The final piece of the spark plug equation is reach, or the location of the electrode in the combustion chambers. Always use shorter, non-projected style spark plugs with nitrous systems. Because nitrous helps produce greater combustion heat and pressure, the longer electrodes on projected plugs are more likely to absorb heat, burn up, or cause pre-ignition. In some ultra-high horsepower applications, you may even want to shorten the length of the ground electrode.
Hope this helps you guys.
Why not get colder plugs since they're so cheap? You don't want to mess up your DD now, do you?
Look for 1 of the threads I started. I made a spark plugs DIY a while back.
No, I believe the nitrogen for your tires are just nitrogen atoms whereas the nitrous oxide is 2 parts nitrogen and 1 part oxygen.