Let the fun begin
12-16-2012, 07:16 AM
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Let the fun begin
I finally found a shop I feel good about doing the install. JE Import which I'm pretty happy with for they did some modifications some my exhaust. They seemed like more of a N/A or Turbo/Supercharger build kind of shop but I'm happy to say I spoke with Chris and felt pretty good about our convo. The happily gave me quotes and adjusted to meet my needs.
I told them the deal that I need to be with if not walking on a 2013 Boss. They talked me into at 100 shot to start with and go form there so we will see what happens. I'll know immediatly if I need to move up to 150 shop cus the guy that has the Boss is gonna take me to pick up the Z when it's done so you catch my drift.
Stayed within the 2.5k budget...actually over by $50. Includes ZEX kit, colder plugs, bottle fill and tune. Takes about 2 weeks to get parts in but I won't be back home until first week of January so I can't get the car to them until then so it should be good timing.
I still have to get a window switch and figure out how to switch between maps since I don't have cruise control on my car. I'll add on all the goodies later like, remote bottle opener, bottle warmer, blow down tube, purge, ect. but for now we will see what we get.
I'll be sure to get some base line #'s first. I bought the car used so I'm not sure if the prior owner tuned it or not. Currently I have Injen CAI, Megan HKS Replica with Magnaflow X-Pipe welded in.
I told them the deal that I need to be with if not walking on a 2013 Boss. They talked me into at 100 shot to start with and go form there so we will see what happens. I'll know immediatly if I need to move up to 150 shop cus the guy that has the Boss is gonna take me to pick up the Z when it's done so you catch my drift.
Stayed within the 2.5k budget...actually over by $50. Includes ZEX kit, colder plugs, bottle fill and tune. Takes about 2 weeks to get parts in but I won't be back home until first week of January so I can't get the car to them until then so it should be good timing.
I still have to get a window switch and figure out how to switch between maps since I don't have cruise control on my car. I'll add on all the goodies later like, remote bottle opener, bottle warmer, blow down tube, purge, ect. but for now we will see what we get.
I'll be sure to get some base line #'s first. I bought the car used so I'm not sure if the prior owner tuned it or not. Currently I have Injen CAI, Megan HKS Replica with Magnaflow X-Pipe welded in.
12-16-2012, 05:47 PM
#3
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$2500 sounds like a lot for what you're getting, imo. Plus, I'm not sure why you're skipping on things like a pressure gauge and bottle heater but spending money on a tune. Sounds like those guys don't know what they're doing either.
If I were you, I'd go back to square one. Do more research on what a bare minimum kit should look like so you can spray properly, then you can start thinking about installing and tuning.
If I were you, I'd go back to square one. Do more research on what a bare minimum kit should look like so you can spray properly, then you can start thinking about installing and tuning.
12-17-2012, 05:36 AM
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$2500 sounds like a lot for what you're getting, imo. Plus, I'm not sure why you're skipping on things like a pressure gauge and bottle heater but spending money on a tune. Sounds like those guys don't know what they're doing either.
If I were you, I'd go back to square one. Do more research on what a bare minimum kit should look like so you can spray properly, then you can start thinking about installing and tuning.
If I were you, I'd go back to square one. Do more research on what a bare minimum kit should look like so you can spray properly, then you can start thinking about installing and tuning.
With a 100 shot I thought it had to be tuned and timing pulled so now your saying no tune is needed? I read the directions from ZEX and they even say to get a tune and pull timing. You have more experience then me as it comes to Nitrous so please let me know.
I would install myself but I've never done it and the shop has. I'm they type that likes to see someone else do it before I start trying to getting my hands into something I've never done. Just how I am, my personality. I could come out $1300 cheaper but I'm having them install and tune it.
12-17-2012, 10:46 AM
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Bottle pressure should remain between 950-1050 psi to get the most out of your nitrous kit safely, without a pressure gauge you won't know where it's at. After your first couple of runs chances are the pressure would be under 900 psi which you won't actually get the hp you want, by using a bottle warmer when ready to race the pressure would be increased and should be shut off once proper psi is reached..
Last edited by rtiid22; 12-17-2012 at 10:47 AM.
12-17-2012, 09:10 PM
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Your response is exactly why you need to go do more research, OP. But yes, +1 to what the above guy said. That is what I'd consider bare minimum and the fact that your installer/tuner doesn't even know this should set off an alarm.
12-18-2012, 04:21 AM
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I ordered the ZEX window switch so I don't blow it up flooring it at 1.5k.
Dynotune a/f gauge and bottle warmer. bottle warmer is pressure controled and fully adjustable. I know the ZEX kit comes with active fuel monitoring but I would like to keep my eye on it too so I can shut down if I need to.
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12-18-2012, 08:50 AM
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[QUOTE=HarleyDobbs] I ordered the ZEX window switch so I don't blow it up flooring it at 1.5k. <This concerns me and requires more research 
>
Dynotune a/f gauge and bottle warmer. bottle warmer is pressure controled and fully adjustable. I know the ZEX kit comes with active fuel monitoring but I would like to keep my eye on it too so I can shut down if I need to.[/QUOTE]
I do not believe most bottle warmers control pressure (like a NANO). They have a thermostat to control tempurature, which in turn controls pressure. The biggest weakness with warmers is the ability to properly set temp to combat environmental temps to achieve a specific bottle PSI sought. The point I am trying to make is that there is some margin of +/- error inherent. Therefore N2O pressure gauge is a must imho.
As for Zex active fuel monitoring.....it seems that the nozzle has some sort of throttling capabilities based on inputs from bottle psi, which again would be determined by the balance between the warmer and surrounding air temps.
there are many misconceptions about the NMU. It is only a good looking
way to contain the solenoids and the wiring needed for the TPS activation.
It has no sensors or anything that monitors AF ratio or any thing like that.
Now the ZEX nozzle design is what actually does a lot of what people think
the NMU does. The ZEX nozzle has Fuel Shear and Active Fuel Control
Technology. The Fuel Shear Tech. injects fuel using a fuel transfer tube.
This tube allows the fuel to inject in the highest velocity area of the
nitrous plume. This allows for the best possible fuel atomization ensuring
one cylinder does not go dangerously rich or lean. Active Fuel Control Tech.
is a safety feature that basically allows the level of fuel drawn from the
nozzle to vary depending on bottle pressure. This way your nitrous never
goes lean or rich due to changing bottle pressure or temperature changes.
Many people mistakenly believe this to be controlled by the NMU but it is
not. I hope this has answered your questions.
>Dynotune a/f gauge and bottle warmer. bottle warmer is pressure controled and fully adjustable. I know the ZEX kit comes with active fuel monitoring but I would like to keep my eye on it too so I can shut down if I need to.[/QUOTE]
I do not believe most bottle warmers control pressure (like a NANO). They have a thermostat to control tempurature, which in turn controls pressure. The biggest weakness with warmers is the ability to properly set temp to combat environmental temps to achieve a specific bottle PSI sought. The point I am trying to make is that there is some margin of +/- error inherent. Therefore N2O pressure gauge is a must imho.
As for Zex active fuel monitoring.....it seems that the nozzle has some sort of throttling capabilities based on inputs from bottle psi, which again would be determined by the balance between the warmer and surrounding air temps.
there are many misconceptions about the NMU. It is only a good looking
way to contain the solenoids and the wiring needed for the TPS activation.
It has no sensors or anything that monitors AF ratio or any thing like that.
Now the ZEX nozzle design is what actually does a lot of what people think
the NMU does. The ZEX nozzle has Fuel Shear and Active Fuel Control
Technology. The Fuel Shear Tech. injects fuel using a fuel transfer tube.
This tube allows the fuel to inject in the highest velocity area of the
nitrous plume. This allows for the best possible fuel atomization ensuring
one cylinder does not go dangerously rich or lean. Active Fuel Control Tech.
is a safety feature that basically allows the level of fuel drawn from the
nozzle to vary depending on bottle pressure. This way your nitrous never
goes lean or rich due to changing bottle pressure or temperature changes.
Many people mistakenly believe this to be controlled by the NMU but it is
not. I hope this has answered your questions.
12-18-2012, 09:40 AM
#10
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$2500 sounds like a lot for what you're getting, imo. Plus, I'm not sure why you're skipping on things like a pressure gauge and bottle heater but spending money on a tune. Sounds like those guys don't know what they're doing either.
If I were you, I'd go back to square one. Do more research on what a bare minimum kit should look like so you can spray properly, then you can start thinking about installing and tuning.
If I were you, I'd go back to square one. Do more research on what a bare minimum kit should look like so you can spray properly, then you can start thinking about installing and tuning.
I got a Complete Nitrous Express VQ35HR Bolt on kit with custom made lines/jets specific for the application without a Nitrous Bottle for $350
Dynotune Nitrous Progressive/Window Switch/WOT controller for $200
Nitrous express GEN-X 2 - All safety equipment, AUTOMATIC bottle heater, pressure gauge, purge valve, blowdown tube, Fuel pressure safety switch etc etc for $300
Used Nitrous Express high flow valve for $110
After a 40$ tank fillup your looking at $1100
No need for a tune, its only a 75 shot and Vq35HR sparkplugs are ok for 75 shot, at 100 I would bump to 370z plugs...
12-18-2012, 09:54 AM
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I got a Complete Nitrous Express VQ35HR Bolt on kit with custom made lines/jets specific for the application without a Nitrous Bottle for $350
Dynotune Nitrous Progressive/Window Switch/WOT controller for $200
Nitrous express GEN-X 2 - All safety equipment, AUTOMATIC bottle heater, pressure gauge, purge valve, blowdown tube, Fuel pressure safety switch etc etc for $300
Used Nitrous Express high flow valve for $110
After a 40$ tank fillup your looking at $1100
No need for a tune, its only a 75 shot and Vq35HR sparkplugs are ok for 75 shot, at 100 I would bump to 370z plugs...
Dynotune Nitrous Progressive/Window Switch/WOT controller for $200
Nitrous express GEN-X 2 - All safety equipment, AUTOMATIC bottle heater, pressure gauge, purge valve, blowdown tube, Fuel pressure safety switch etc etc for $300
Used Nitrous Express high flow valve for $110
After a 40$ tank fillup your looking at $1100
No need for a tune, its only a 75 shot and Vq35HR sparkplugs are ok for 75 shot, at 100 I would bump to 370z plugs...
I have some time in early Jan and I'm going to do the install myself and then take to the shop for a tune. I figure what the hell, if I mess something up they can correct it but the directions seem dummy proof and it will allow me to get everything needed.
I'll keep things updated as I go.
Last edited by HarleyDobbs; 12-18-2012 at 10:00 AM.
12-18-2012, 10:02 AM
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[QUOTE=Old Rice;9984699][QUOTE=HarleyDobbs] I ordered the ZEX window switch so I don't blow it up flooring it at 1.5k. <This concerns me and requires more research >
Correct me if I'm wrong the ZEX kit doesn't come with a window switch the WOT sensor/switch. So if I floor it at 1.5k, which is possible, the nitrous should activate correct? Maybe my logic is wrong?
>Correct me if I'm wrong the ZEX kit doesn't come with a window switch the WOT sensor/switch. So if I floor it at 1.5k, which is possible, the nitrous should activate correct? Maybe my logic is wrong?
12-18-2012, 10:17 AM
#13
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And the price of the Nitrous bottle? $200 - $250? So you're at $1,300. $2.5k included install and uprev so I would say that's not that bad. Also I am moving to a 150 shot so I will need a tune. Hell the tune alone is $850 so I'm not sure how $2,500 is a rip off. Also if I bring them parts, like most shops the labor rate is $120 and up...that's a rip off. I mean unless someone can find me a shop that will tune for $600 including sofware upload...I think $2,500 wasn't bad. But enough of that...
I have some time in early Jan and I'm going to do the install myself and then take to the shop for a tune. I figure what the hell, if I mess something up they can correct it but the directions seem dummy proof and it will allow me to get everything needed.
I'll keep things updated as I go.
I have some time in early Jan and I'm going to do the install myself and then take to the shop for a tune. I figure what the hell, if I mess something up they can correct it but the directions seem dummy proof and it will allow me to get everything needed.
I'll keep things updated as I go.
No I mean't. 110$ for the NX TANK with high flow bro...
12-18-2012, 10:18 AM
#14
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[QUOTE=HarleyDobbs;9984786][QUOTE=Old Rice;9984699]
sounds like you need to be doing more research into the basic principles of nitrous and the safety features that come with a reliable setup
Originally Posted by HarleyDobbs
I ordered the ZEX window switch so I don't blow it up flooring it at 1.5k. <This concerns me and requires more research >
Correct me if I'm wrong the ZEX kit doesn't come with a window switch the WOT sensor/switch. So if I floor it at 1.5k, which is possible, the nitrous should activate correct? Maybe my logic is wrong?
>Correct me if I'm wrong the ZEX kit doesn't come with a window switch the WOT sensor/switch. So if I floor it at 1.5k, which is possible, the nitrous should activate correct? Maybe my logic is wrong?
sounds like you need to be doing more research into the basic principles of nitrous and the safety features that come with a reliable setup
12-18-2012, 10:27 AM
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^
Sure thing man...obviously I need a Wide Open Throttle Switch and a Window Switch.
Window swtich - allows you to set the RPM rage that the nitrous activates?
Wide Open Throttle Switch - activates nitrous when throttle is wide open?
The ZEX™ 350Z Nitrous System is designed for a plug and play installation on 350Z dual throttle body engines. Adjustable from 75 to 100 horsepower, the kit includes a custom designed billet fuel adapter that bolts easily on to the factory fuel rail. This adapter keeps you from having to cut any fuel lines during installation. Because of the 350Z’s higher than usual base fuel pressure of 51psi, the kit also includes a custom set of tuning jets that not only maximize power but engine safety as well. ZEX™ Active Fuel Control™ technology adjusts fuel enrichment with variations in bottle pressure to ensure that you’re never too rich or too lean. ZEX™ electronics activate the nitrous system only at wide open throttle for safety and power when you need it most.
I don't see anything about a window switch in there at all...do you? I see WOT switch but no Window. English is my first language so I'm sure I'm reading it right. Does ZEX come built in with a Windown Switch?
Don't say I need to do more research cus from what I'm reading that is what is making sense to me based on the kit. I'm not slow and don't say do more research. If you have if figured out then explain. If it does then say it does cus the ZEX site it's self doesn't say it comes with the kit.
Sure thing man...obviously I need a Wide Open Throttle Switch and a Window Switch.
Window swtich - allows you to set the RPM rage that the nitrous activates?
Wide Open Throttle Switch - activates nitrous when throttle is wide open?
The ZEX™ 350Z Nitrous System is designed for a plug and play installation on 350Z dual throttle body engines. Adjustable from 75 to 100 horsepower, the kit includes a custom designed billet fuel adapter that bolts easily on to the factory fuel rail. This adapter keeps you from having to cut any fuel lines during installation. Because of the 350Z’s higher than usual base fuel pressure of 51psi, the kit also includes a custom set of tuning jets that not only maximize power but engine safety as well. ZEX™ Active Fuel Control™ technology adjusts fuel enrichment with variations in bottle pressure to ensure that you’re never too rich or too lean. ZEX™ electronics activate the nitrous system only at wide open throttle for safety and power when you need it most.
I don't see anything about a window switch in there at all...do you? I see WOT switch but no Window. English is my first language so I'm sure I'm reading it right. Does ZEX come built in with a Windown Switch?
Don't say I need to do more research cus from what I'm reading that is what is making sense to me based on the kit. I'm not slow and don't say do more research. If you have if figured out then explain. If it does then say it does cus the ZEX site it's self doesn't say it comes with the kit.
Last edited by HarleyDobbs; 12-18-2012 at 10:47 AM.
12-18-2012, 10:57 AM
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Although I do not own a ZEX kit, I believe the "management unit" (or electronic brains + solenoids) prolly has an electronic WOT switch integrated (as opposed to TB\pedal micro switch). Window switch I am not sure, but they would have it as addl accessory as an option.
The point I was steering you to is that you would not want to spray as low as 1500RPM since you would probaby see your final drive, driveshaft and\or axles spread along the pavement in your rearview mirror. Most set the activation window at 3400RPM, or 1st gear lockouts to reduce the WTQ factor.
The point I was steering you to is that you would not want to spray as low as 1500RPM since you would probaby see your final drive, driveshaft and\or axles spread along the pavement in your rearview mirror. Most set the activation window at 3400RPM, or 1st gear lockouts to reduce the WTQ factor.
Last edited by Old Rice; 12-18-2012 at 10:58 AM.
12-18-2012, 10:58 AM
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[QUOTE=Old Rice;9984699]
Makes completed sense and thanks for the knowledge. A/F gauge is back on the list along with pressure gauge. This is why I'm moving to install myself so I can get all parts needed. The install is really what had me hesitant but I'm in for some fun and quality time with my Z.
Originally Posted by HarleyDobbs
I ordered the ZEX window switch so I don't blow it up flooring it at 1.5k. <This concerns me and requires more research >
Dynotune a/f gauge and bottle warmer. bottle warmer is pressure controled and fully adjustable. I know the ZEX kit comes with active fuel monitoring but I would like to keep my eye on it too so I can shut down if I need to.[/QUOTE]
I do not believe most bottle warmers control pressure (like a NANO). They have a thermostat to control tempurature, which in turn controls pressure. The biggest weakness with warmers is the ability to properly set temp to combat environmental temps to achieve a specific bottle PSI sought. The point I am trying to make is that there is some margin of +/- error inherent. Therefore N2O pressure gauge is a must imho.
As for Zex active fuel monitoring.....it seems that the nozzle has some sort of throttling capabilities based on inputs from bottle psi, which again would be determined by the balance between the warmer and surrounding air temps.
there are many misconceptions about the NMU. It is only a good looking
way to contain the solenoids and the wiring needed for the TPS activation.
It has no sensors or anything that monitors AF ratio or any thing like that.
Now the ZEX nozzle design is what actually does a lot of what people think
the NMU does. The ZEX nozzle has Fuel Shear and Active Fuel Control
Technology. The Fuel Shear Tech. injects fuel using a fuel transfer tube.
This tube allows the fuel to inject in the highest velocity area of the
nitrous plume. This allows for the best possible fuel atomization ensuring
one cylinder does not go dangerously rich or lean. Active Fuel Control Tech.
is a safety feature that basically allows the level of fuel drawn from the
nozzle to vary depending on bottle pressure. This way your nitrous never
goes lean or rich due to changing bottle pressure or temperature changes.
Many people mistakenly believe this to be controlled by the NMU but it is
not. I hope this has answered your questions.
>Dynotune a/f gauge and bottle warmer. bottle warmer is pressure controled and fully adjustable. I know the ZEX kit comes with active fuel monitoring but I would like to keep my eye on it too so I can shut down if I need to.[/QUOTE]
I do not believe most bottle warmers control pressure (like a NANO). They have a thermostat to control tempurature, which in turn controls pressure. The biggest weakness with warmers is the ability to properly set temp to combat environmental temps to achieve a specific bottle PSI sought. The point I am trying to make is that there is some margin of +/- error inherent. Therefore N2O pressure gauge is a must imho.
As for Zex active fuel monitoring.....it seems that the nozzle has some sort of throttling capabilities based on inputs from bottle psi, which again would be determined by the balance between the warmer and surrounding air temps.
there are many misconceptions about the NMU. It is only a good looking
way to contain the solenoids and the wiring needed for the TPS activation.
It has no sensors or anything that monitors AF ratio or any thing like that.
Now the ZEX nozzle design is what actually does a lot of what people think
the NMU does. The ZEX nozzle has Fuel Shear and Active Fuel Control
Technology. The Fuel Shear Tech. injects fuel using a fuel transfer tube.
This tube allows the fuel to inject in the highest velocity area of the
nitrous plume. This allows for the best possible fuel atomization ensuring
one cylinder does not go dangerously rich or lean. Active Fuel Control Tech.
is a safety feature that basically allows the level of fuel drawn from the
nozzle to vary depending on bottle pressure. This way your nitrous never
goes lean or rich due to changing bottle pressure or temperature changes.
Many people mistakenly believe this to be controlled by the NMU but it is
not. I hope this has answered your questions.
12-18-2012, 11:02 AM
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Although I do not own a ZEX kit, I believe the "management unit" (or electronic brains + solenoids) prolly has an electronic WOT switch integrated (as opposed to TB\pedal micro switch). Window switch I am not sure, but they would have it as addl accessory as an option.
The point I was steering you to is that you would not want to spray as low as 1500RPM since you would probaby see your final drive, driveshaft and\or axles spread along the pavement in your rearview mirror. Most set the activation window at 3400RPM, or 1st gear lockouts to reduce the WTQ factor.
The point I was steering you to is that you would not want to spray as low as 1500RPM since you would probaby see your final drive, driveshaft and\or axles spread along the pavement in your rearview mirror. Most set the activation window at 3400RPM, or 1st gear lockouts to reduce the WTQ factor.
I'm giong to have the switch set from 3500 to 7000. want the extra 500 for shifting purposes...don't want to bounce off of the rev limiter...can cause serious issues.
From what I've seen it's activated via a physical swtich not an electronic switch.
Last edited by HarleyDobbs; 12-18-2012 at 11:06 AM.
12-18-2012, 11:58 AM
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I am also in the camp that you should do the install yourself. I will be the first to admit that I knew nothing about cars in general, never worked on them, and viewed them as basically the depreciating\disposable assets that they are. I then bought a 350ZR with no intention on doing anything with it. Then I discovered these damn forums and that was the end for me...lol. Once I knew what "could" be done I got interested in mods. I planned and read up for 2 years on all "power-adders". Nitrous seemed to be a good fit for what I was after (fun, cost, simplicity).
I planned the layout and installed my system with many of the bells and whistles. Again I am admittedly not mechancially inclined. The main benefit to me was the knowledge to support it afterwards. Cuz after the pro install...ur on r own. You can do most of it yourself and have the 12V wiring and relay work done at a shop. That is what I did. Use the Time, Tools, Talent analysis. Do you have the....Time, Tools, or Talent to accomplish whatever.
Also keep in mind the basic kit is really short. Meaning I wound up not using much of what was included. Depending on your layout you come across needing additional 45/90 NPT fittings, longer hoses, 1/4 aluminum hardline, etc, etc. Either you layout your install or the install defines your layout since stuff will be jammed here & there to make things reach and connect.
Something to think about..
I planned the layout and installed my system with many of the bells and whistles. Again I am admittedly not mechancially inclined. The main benefit to me was the knowledge to support it afterwards. Cuz after the pro install...ur on r own. You can do most of it yourself and have the 12V wiring and relay work done at a shop. That is what I did. Use the Time, Tools, Talent analysis. Do you have the....Time, Tools, or Talent to accomplish whatever.
Also keep in mind the basic kit is really short. Meaning I wound up not using much of what was included. Depending on your layout you come across needing additional 45/90 NPT fittings, longer hoses, 1/4 aluminum hardline, etc, etc. Either you layout your install or the install defines your layout since stuff will be jammed here & there to make things reach and connect.
Something to think about..
12-18-2012, 12:12 PM
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I am also in the camp that you should do the install yourself. I will be the first to admit that I knew nothing about cars in general, never worked on them, and viewed them as basically the depreciating\disposable assets that they are. I then bought a 350ZR with no intention on doing anything with it. Then I discovered these damn forums and that was the end for me...lol. Once I knew what "could" be done I got interested in mods. I planned and read up for 2 years on all "power-adders". Nitrous seemed to be a good fit for what I was after (fun, cost, simplicity).
I planned the layout and installed my system with many of the bells and whistles. Again I am admittedly not mechancially inclined. The main benefit to me was the knowledge to support it afterwards. Cuz after the pro install...ur on r own. You can do most of it yourself and have the 12V wiring and relay work done at a shop. That is what I did. Use the Time, Tools, Talent analysis. Do you have the....Time, Tools, or Talent to accomplish whatever.
Also keep in mind the basic kit is really short. Meaning I wound up not using much of what was included. Depending on your layout you come across needing additional 45/90 NPT fittings, longer hoses, 1/4 aluminum hardline, etc, etc. Either you layout your install or the install defines your layout since stuff will be jammed here & there to make things reach and connect.
Something to think about..
I planned the layout and installed my system with many of the bells and whistles. Again I am admittedly not mechancially inclined. The main benefit to me was the knowledge to support it afterwards. Cuz after the pro install...ur on r own. You can do most of it yourself and have the 12V wiring and relay work done at a shop. That is what I did. Use the Time, Tools, Talent analysis. Do you have the....Time, Tools, or Talent to accomplish whatever.
Also keep in mind the basic kit is really short. Meaning I wound up not using much of what was included. Depending on your layout you come across needing additional 45/90 NPT fittings, longer hoses, 1/4 aluminum hardline, etc, etc. Either you layout your install or the install defines your layout since stuff will be jammed here & there to make things reach and connect.
Something to think about..
Why can't others be like you, just share their experiences are they are relative to what your trying to acheive and just reality of things?
Since I have a base I've also ordered the items needed to install the cruise control on my base so I can switch between maps also. It's coming together no matter how much research I need to do ;-)