I think he wanted to turn them on at a lower temperature...

 

I think what MR RIZK is talking about is having the fans come on at an earlier temperature. We have not had any problems requiring the fans to come on earlier, but I suppose it would still be a nice feature.

MR RIZK, adding fan control should little time once we identify the CAN channels.

 

Hal

Reading the manual, I see that you can use "pass-through" values (values that the stock ECU would put in) for base fuel maps and base ignition maps by inputting a "C" in that load point, rather than an actual value. However, I tried this in the intake/exhauast cam maps and it doesn't seem to work. It actually doesn't even allow you to enter a C. Is there anyway to use a "pass through" value in the intake and exhaust cam maps?

A possibly related question: I noticed that if you input zero (0) for every spot on a map, the entire map turns a light green shade. However, if you change even one value to something other than zero, the map goes to the normal colors. Does this light green shade on the entire map signify anything?

 

Dave, no copy-through on cam timing maps. Also, it only turns green when all values are 0 because there is nothing for it to shade.

 

Ok, thanks

 

All I was after is make the fans come on earlier without using a fan controller as it would be a "nice" feature.

RCDASH if you have a wiring diagram would be great otherwise the only thing I have to go by is the billion VFC wiring diagram.

In traffic I find my temps are about 90-99C. 90C when fans are on and 99C when they are off. 85C when moving at a constant speed.

 

Ive went through this whole thread and havent seen anything on if the Haltech can be installed on a car with a AT5 tranny . Can it be ?

 

Yes sir it can. We have run it on a few automatics.

 

Thank you !

My shop [ SubLime Speed Tech.] is a Haltech dealer and will be ordering one shortly

 

You'll definitely like it, and the support Hal gives is awesome, as well.

 

Got the Haltech ordered today . The shop mentioned that he would like to get rid of the MAF sensor all together and run the MAP only [ forgot what he called it ] . With out going thru the whole thread , is this possible with this EMS ? I had read others have done it with the F-Con I believe.

Thanks !

 

+1 the unit is nice and hal is a good guy!!

 

First of all, congrats! Yes, you can delete the MAF entirely from the system but you will need to add an air temp sensor (as the MAF houses the air temp sensor from the factory). This is no major issue, we have plenty of them here if you need - just let me know. Also if you want to send me an email with your setup details I can get a basemap together to help you all jumpstart the tuning process

 

Thanks Julian, but when are you going to change that "Got UTEC" in your sig to "Got Haltech?"

 

If you want the fans to come on before the stock ECU triggers it, then this won't help, so not sure this is what you want, but since you asked for the diagram...

Refer to the attached PDF (note that this is for a 2004.5 G35 coupe). Your wire colors may be different, so check your FSM to be sure.

This seriously is really simple – just tap the “hot” output wires from cooling fan relays 1 and 3 for each of the two fans. The fuses are rated 40 amps, but I’m not 100% sure about the relays (I would guess 30 amps each based on their size. If you really want to double check you need to pull them out and get the part # off of the underside – but it’s a PITA).

I would recommend tapping the wires behind the battery (at the base of the IPDM) so that you can run thicker wiring the distance to the fans (don’t know how thick the stock wiring is). I just used 10-12 gauge quick taps. Keep in mind that the low speed relay comes on with the AC. The low speed relay AND the high speed relay comes on if over temp. So one fan will be on for AC and both fans will be on over 95C. I wired the passenger side fan (which has the tranny and power steering cooler near it) to come on with the low speed relay. This helps to minimize noise that the driver hears.

 

PM sent THANKS !!!!!!

 

Hal

I was going to order a wideband for the Haltech ems . Im Looking at the Innovate LC-1
http://www.injectedperformance.com/V...ID=3066&VID=36

Is this exactly what I need to hook it up to the Haltech ?

 

Thx. RCDASH

 

Booger, that will work just fine with the Haltech Platinum. Any wideband with analog output can be calibrated in Haltech, including the AEM etc. Also, it will accept two widebands, one in each bank - and make adjustments specific to each bank with o2 correction on.

 

Do you need 2 widebands for the O2 correction to work ?