Injected Performance brings you HALTECH PLATINUM PNP STANDALONE
#481
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I believe the speed limiter is throttle controlled and not a fuel cut (as the rev limiter is in the pre-05 cars, which is why the Haltech can alter that).
So you must reflash to change. Give Hal a buzz though - he's an Osiris pro-tuner and you might be able to work out a deal for the reflash+Haltech combo.
Last edited by rcdash; 02-14-2009 at 06:44 AM.
#482
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P0011 and P0021 are reporting that ECU outputted cam timing does not match the cam sensors. This is true, because we are controlling cam timing - not the oem ecu. These codes are allowed, because they 'soft codes', meaning they alone will not trip the CEL or cause any problems. The only way around this, would be giving cam control back to the stock computer.
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Only codes that trigger a CEL should cause OBD2 derived inspection failures. On my own car, I get a mystery P0000 code every now and again. It's just some random thing that happens and has no specified fault. My car passed without any problem, and NY uses OBD2 based inspections. They told me about the code, said they read it and that it was undefined...I told them I was aware of it and that was that
Last edited by Z1 Performance; 02-15-2009 at 03:06 PM.
#484
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EDIT: see note below from Dave. You can disable them permanently with a reflash. I CAN confirm (on a 2004.5 G35 5AT coupe) that if you disable them, none of the readiness monitors are affected other than possibly EVAP (which takes forever to show ready for me). Most states allow 1 or more "not ready" and you can still pass emissions, so it didn't affect me.
Last edited by rcdash; 02-17-2009 at 11:44 AM.
#487
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Rcdash/Z1, thanks for helping out with answers to questions.
Dave, that is odd. I still haven't come across any others where the intake cam codes trip the CEL.
Glex, currently you would need to take the safety trigger from your system and run it to a relay in order to put the Haltech in a conservative mode. I can help you with this. For triggering, it currently operates the same as the nitrous trigger - with 3 and/or statements. Example: rpm > 3000, tps > 95%, load > 5psi. We are working on a PWM meth driver which I am excited about.
Dave, that is odd. I still haven't come across any others where the intake cam codes trip the CEL.
Glex, currently you would need to take the safety trigger from your system and run it to a relay in order to put the Haltech in a conservative mode. I can help you with this. For triggering, it currently operates the same as the nitrous trigger - with 3 and/or statements. Example: rpm > 3000, tps > 95%, load > 5psi. We are working on a PWM meth driver which I am excited about.
#488
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Dave, edited my post. Hal, I sent you a bit of this by e-mail but I'm going to paste this in here as it relays my experience passing emissions with the Haltech:
I passed once with 3.5" test pipes. I passed once with cats. Check the attached PDF, which is an excerpt from the FSM for my model year on system readiness for emissions testing. I have Osiris and can reflash my ECU to disable designated CEL codes. The first time, I did not disable ANY (not intake cams either). I reset the ECU and drove very slowly - lol. Like max 2.5k rpms. No boosting. Drove highway and city for 30 mins and went straight to the testing station. They stopped the car, plugged in the OBD, started her up, and let it idle. Passed no problems. The second time around I tried to use Osiris to disable specific CELs and I could not complete testing because EVAP and O2 systems were "not ready". I then used Cipher and decided to do a little digging...
Even if all CELs are enabled, the EVAP readiness code is the one that takes forever to set – I tried following the pattern in the FSM, but my intake temps may have been off because of the Haltech sensor precluding initiation of the test. I never got EVAP CEL codes (they were enabled) but couldn’t get it to show ready. I eventually passed with that one showing “not ready”. I believe every state will allow at least one not ready, so you have to get everything else “ready”. That was the case here in NC. Every state’s website has the rules for OBD testing, so I would look it up. If you can have 2 or more not ready (Texas allows 3!) then it is really easy to just clear CELs or disable certain CELs, drive 20 mins to inspection station, and pass. It is possible to pass even if you routinely throw a CEL just by doing a reset and timing it right as all the other readiness indicators turn on pretty quickly. Having a tool that can show you readiness status AND 1st time DTC is helpful because you know a code is coming and you need to get tested within the next 1 or 2 start ups of the car. Cipher can do neither. I used ProScan (www.myscantool.net). There are probably better ones for the money but I bought it a long time ago and to their credit they keep improving the software.
On the last page of the attached PDF, there are the driving patterns to set the readiness codes. You can drive the patterns (20 mins or so), turn the car off. Turn the car on, all should show ready except the EVAP. Drive to the inspection station, leave the car running. The guy testing will take it back, turn it off, plug in the OBD connector, initiate the test, turn the car on and let it idle for about 20 mins. Should pass. Mine did, twice this way. Mine could actually go for a good bit without any CELs as I was watching for 1st trip DTCs and I could adjust AFR targets (well, I was changing stock O2 calibrations actually) to compensate via the Haltech based on O2 AFR readings in Cipher. For example, if I saw the "too rich" code on one bank, I would adjust the O2 calibration in the Haltech until Ciper was reading towards the lean side. The "too rich" 1st trip DTC would go away without triggering the CEL. This method allowed the car to definitely set all readiness monitors without worrying that the CEL was going to trip. I knew if there were no 1st trip DTCs pending, it would take at least 2 power cycles to trigger a DTC. I could therefore guarantee I would pass OBD testing.
Hope this helps others.
I passed once with 3.5" test pipes. I passed once with cats. Check the attached PDF, which is an excerpt from the FSM for my model year on system readiness for emissions testing. I have Osiris and can reflash my ECU to disable designated CEL codes. The first time, I did not disable ANY (not intake cams either). I reset the ECU and drove very slowly - lol. Like max 2.5k rpms. No boosting. Drove highway and city for 30 mins and went straight to the testing station. They stopped the car, plugged in the OBD, started her up, and let it idle. Passed no problems. The second time around I tried to use Osiris to disable specific CELs and I could not complete testing because EVAP and O2 systems were "not ready". I then used Cipher and decided to do a little digging...
Even if all CELs are enabled, the EVAP readiness code is the one that takes forever to set – I tried following the pattern in the FSM, but my intake temps may have been off because of the Haltech sensor precluding initiation of the test. I never got EVAP CEL codes (they were enabled) but couldn’t get it to show ready. I eventually passed with that one showing “not ready”. I believe every state will allow at least one not ready, so you have to get everything else “ready”. That was the case here in NC. Every state’s website has the rules for OBD testing, so I would look it up. If you can have 2 or more not ready (Texas allows 3!) then it is really easy to just clear CELs or disable certain CELs, drive 20 mins to inspection station, and pass. It is possible to pass even if you routinely throw a CEL just by doing a reset and timing it right as all the other readiness indicators turn on pretty quickly. Having a tool that can show you readiness status AND 1st time DTC is helpful because you know a code is coming and you need to get tested within the next 1 or 2 start ups of the car. Cipher can do neither. I used ProScan (www.myscantool.net). There are probably better ones for the money but I bought it a long time ago and to their credit they keep improving the software.
On the last page of the attached PDF, there are the driving patterns to set the readiness codes. You can drive the patterns (20 mins or so), turn the car off. Turn the car on, all should show ready except the EVAP. Drive to the inspection station, leave the car running. The guy testing will take it back, turn it off, plug in the OBD connector, initiate the test, turn the car on and let it idle for about 20 mins. Should pass. Mine did, twice this way. Mine could actually go for a good bit without any CELs as I was watching for 1st trip DTCs and I could adjust AFR targets (well, I was changing stock O2 calibrations actually) to compensate via the Haltech based on O2 AFR readings in Cipher. For example, if I saw the "too rich" code on one bank, I would adjust the O2 calibration in the Haltech until Ciper was reading towards the lean side. The "too rich" 1st trip DTC would go away without triggering the CEL. This method allowed the car to definitely set all readiness monitors without worrying that the CEL was going to trip. I knew if there were no 1st trip DTCs pending, it would take at least 2 power cycles to trigger a DTC. I could therefore guarantee I would pass OBD testing.
Hope this helps others.
Last edited by rcdash; 02-17-2009 at 12:01 PM.
#490
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Hi Hal, you're welcome re: the above. I'm happy to discuss in this thread with others if you don't mind since it might be easier than copying PMs back and forth. ![Smilie](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Quick ? (hopefully):
I noticed that you can enter negative values into the variable cam timing tables. Is the VQ35DE non-revup variable intake cam capable of reacting to negative settings? I know on the stock ECU values range from 0 to 35 degrees cam timing advance. On the Haltech it seems to go from -10 to 50 degrees.
Since I have JWT S2 cams which have greater overlap than stock, I was wondering if it might be advantageous to retard the intake cam at high rpms to prevent reversion of flow (more so than I have now). I went from no cats, to having cats, to again not having cats, and I didn't get Sharif to really re-tune the cam tune most recently. I think this might be especially important if I decide to inject methanol through the intake tract as I don't want any chance of a backfire (which is what I think happened to Luie's engine that resulted in his Crawford plenum exploding when he suddenly let off the throttle at redline).
For reference, the stock cam intake valve opens 6 degrees AFTER TDC and the exhaust valve closes 8 degrees after TDC. For the S2 cam the intake valve opens 5 degrees BEFORE TDC and the exhaust valve closes 16 degrees AFTER TDC. So the intake valve is 11 degrees advanced as it stands compared to stock and relative to the exhaust valve closing, it is 19 degrees "advanced" compared to stock, which has only 2 degrees of overlap. Even at a maximum 10 degrees retard (if the Haltech allows it), the S2 cam would facilitate a little bit of scavenging, but with the exhaust backpressure caused by the turbos, I would think you would want to ensure no reversion takes place at high boost, high rpm by minimizing cam advance to the extent possible. Hope this makes sense...
![Smilie](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Quick ? (hopefully):
I noticed that you can enter negative values into the variable cam timing tables. Is the VQ35DE non-revup variable intake cam capable of reacting to negative settings? I know on the stock ECU values range from 0 to 35 degrees cam timing advance. On the Haltech it seems to go from -10 to 50 degrees.
Since I have JWT S2 cams which have greater overlap than stock, I was wondering if it might be advantageous to retard the intake cam at high rpms to prevent reversion of flow (more so than I have now). I went from no cats, to having cats, to again not having cats, and I didn't get Sharif to really re-tune the cam tune most recently. I think this might be especially important if I decide to inject methanol through the intake tract as I don't want any chance of a backfire (which is what I think happened to Luie's engine that resulted in his Crawford plenum exploding when he suddenly let off the throttle at redline).
For reference, the stock cam intake valve opens 6 degrees AFTER TDC and the exhaust valve closes 8 degrees after TDC. For the S2 cam the intake valve opens 5 degrees BEFORE TDC and the exhaust valve closes 16 degrees AFTER TDC. So the intake valve is 11 degrees advanced as it stands compared to stock and relative to the exhaust valve closing, it is 19 degrees "advanced" compared to stock, which has only 2 degrees of overlap. Even at a maximum 10 degrees retard (if the Haltech allows it), the S2 cam would facilitate a little bit of scavenging, but with the exhaust backpressure caused by the turbos, I would think you would want to ensure no reversion takes place at high boost, high rpm by minimizing cam advance to the extent possible. Hope this makes sense...
![Smilie](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Last edited by rcdash; 02-18-2009 at 07:27 PM.
#493
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Quick ? (hopefully):
I noticed that you can enter negative values into the variable cam timing tables. Is the VQ35DE non-revup variable intake cam capable of reacting to negative settings? I know on the stock ECU values range from 0 to 35 degrees cam timing advance. On the Haltech it seems to go from -10 to 50 degrees.
I noticed that you can enter negative values into the variable cam timing tables. Is the VQ35DE non-revup variable intake cam capable of reacting to negative settings? I know on the stock ECU values range from 0 to 35 degrees cam timing advance. On the Haltech it seems to go from -10 to 50 degrees.
#496
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Glex, there are a few small updates in the new software, a lot of it is just layout (moving calibrations to the setup menu etc). We are still ironing out one last detail in new 350Z firmware to make it work with the 1.02.0 software. I will post up when a new release is ready.
#499
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Oups, I have updated the software. Car is working without any proble. Is there any possibility to damage the car or setup?
#500
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I'm assuming it forced you to update your map, correct? I have not used the old firmware with the new software, as there were a few architectural changes requiring new firmware. If it is running without any problems that is a good sign. The only thing I am waiting on before release, is the ability to control the o2 correction PID values. The currently non-adjustable values work great for stock o2s and injectors, but are too aggressive for use with 800cc and the likes.