do you still need a boost reference to the Haltech nipple if you are using an external MAP sensor?

 

dont believe so

 

Nope. I use the external MAP, and have nothing connected to the boost nipple.

 

^ you guys running higher than the standard 21psi that the haltch can do without an external map?

 

If using an external map sensor, you do not need to run a vacuum hose to the haltech ecu.

 

This is why I use an external MAP. I don't particularly want to have a vacuum tube running into the cabin, where the ECU is. I would rather have a nice short vacuum tube to the sensor, and then wires from the sensor to the ECU. Less chance (in my mind) of getting a vacuum leak, and quicker responsiveness.

 

I found out that if you need a 0-5V signal for boost for W/M injection, the internal Haltech MAP cannot support that. So you must use an external MAP sensor. I picked up an Aeroforce GM-style 3 bar map sensor for some $50. I will be running both for a while and I will see if I can data log both and identify if response is actually faster with the external MAP (with the much shorter vacuum line).

 

hm feel like a sucker paying 90$ for the same thing

that will be interesting data! I think you should grow a pair, meth heavily, and maximize that 3 bar MAP

 

LOL. I know where my turbo runs out of steam (or will know soon). If I had a bigger "pair" I would use them. I'm just trying to maximize what i've got!

 

I know you can wire in a new AIT sensor and can monitor water temps from the can bus. Is it possible to wire in a oil temp sensor as well?

That way I can have my AIT, Water temp, and oil temp on my in car monitor and not have to buy and fit another autometer gauge!

 

Not currently. You would need something like the Racepak dash option for additional gauges.

 

OK, so even with the racepak, the haltech still wont do anything with the information though right?

But it will still be able to make tuning decision on water temp though, since thats a stock sensor? And that and AIT will be able to turn into gauges on a computer screen?

 

To connect oil temp to the Racepak, you would need an add on sensor module from Racepak. You can then use Racepak's own sensors (the unit recognizes them and they are precalibrated to talk to one another), and you're off and running, or you can use another aftermarket sensor, and set the calibration tables within the racepak software, provided you can get the info from the sensor manufacturer. The modules allow you to connect singular, or multiple additional sensors to be displayed on the screen. You can then set the racepak to issue a warning light if oil temp (or any sensor value) reaches a user-defined limit. Not really sure why one would use oil temp as a parameter to alter a map though. Once the light comes on, it's time to take the car to the pits and address the underlying issue...limping it around track at that point would be pretty futile IMHO.

You can use coolant temp within the Haltech to alter maps by a user defined %, which is useful for setting cold start/hot start alterations, and idle parameters, with aftermarket injectors, throttle bodies, etc. I know the stock ecu limits top speed when coolant temp reaches a prescribed limit. I don't know if the Haltech maintains that or not, I've never experienced anything other than normal coolant temps.

 

ya not so much to tune by. but by warning.

guess we really need to wait on that input/output box to make really failsafe setups.

 

I have a reed relay setup that can disable boost to wastegate pressure based on any number of inputs. I will test it soon. If it works well enough (fast enough), I can make one for you from the batch of spare relays I have.

 

The Racepak lets you establish a warning for any input connected to it

 

ya but that warning has no way to trigger the haltech to go to a "safe" map like you can do with the FCON or ProEFI

 

the safe map is your right foot and pulling over I'd rather rely on something I have control over than hoping the ecu does it when necessary

oil temp should never pose an issue unless the car is being run 10/10ths on a roadcoarse, at which point, unfortunately, your race is over

 

I agree, map switching based on an input trigger is critical. Even one input can be diode isolated to allow multiple triggers to engage a safe mode/map.

This is something that can and should be automated. The driver should be concentrating on the road, not worrying about the status of a dozen sensors.

 

I agree, the stock ecu saved me on my car a few months back since I never worry about my water temp I normally don't pay attention to it. I burned through my lower radiator hose and lost all coolant and the computer is what got my attention when it went into limp mode otherwise I probably would have kept running it hard until something bad happened. I normally watch my gauges but it is nice to have that fail safe considering an engine isn't exactly cheap.