No, I do not ground the Haltech chassis - though most installs I do bolt it to the metal panel behind the passenger kick panel.

 

Thanks,

I just didnt wanna have to pull the car apart again for the serial. But since you can get it without taking everything out, I'll send you an email when I get home!

I'm sure Sharif could send me a base map as well I bought it from Forged but since you work with them more often, you probably already have something worked up from a previous build.

Thanks!

 

since I am only using 1 wideband, does that mean i can double my points on the wideband calibration.

say do like
1 to 3V in .25V steps on o2 1 and then 3-5V in .25 steps on O2 2?

its pretty much a straight line on the AEM calibration, but is there a reason use the same values for both O2 banks as opposed to higher resolution across 2 banks?

 

just confirming. I can connect to the Haltech ECU if it is not hooked up to my car? I am trying to retrieve a map I have on the haltch ECU. The USB cable is connected but the ECU manager states "ECU offline"

 

Haltech will trim the banks individually based on the o2 inputs/calibrations, so both calibrations need to be the same if using one sensor. The Haltech perfectly interpolates, and AEM is linear - so you only need 2 cells as shown below (0v=10afr, 5v=20afr).

 

No, the Haltech requires power in order to connect to it. Earlier I was explaining that you can navigate the software and change your map offline if you have a saved copy (or use the base map included with the software if you just want to "explore the software")

 

good deal. i wasnt sure how well it interpolated. I added 8 points since I could and took actual voltage vs gauge display readings to match it up.

also speaking of interpolation, in your 32x32 base map, what happens if you rev higher than you have mapped?

say your 32x32 is set to 7500rpms, but you rev somehow to 7800. does the haltech know what to do, or do you need to build your base map hundreds of rpms higher than your rev limiter?

looks like setting the fueling is like the UTEC where you are inputting ms injector times. Tuning for a supercharger was straightforward becuase you'd always be at the same rpm for the same boost. With turbos you could be at all sorts of rpms will all sorts of boost. I'm sure tuning for that midrange driveability on and off boost is what takes alot of experience.

I also sent you and email last night with my map, setup, and serial #.

Thanks!

 

I am pretty sure that if you go past the row or column limit, the Haltech will use the contents of the cell at the limit. It will not "guess" beyond the data table. I would set up your table so that you never go into uncharted territory. That said, it interpolates perfectly between cells, across rows and columns simultaneously.

 

str8dum1, rcdash is correct - it will continue to use the closest values. On a VE tune, these should be close as it will still be considering boost etc.

I generally add one or two rows/columns past the max rpm/boost, and set the tune conservative there to help cover any accidental overshoot that may occur. This is not necessary, but a nice safety measure. For an extreme example, say a stock-engine car somehow shoots to 18psi... it has a greater chance of survival if extra fuel is flooding in and ignition backed way out so the driver immediately knows there is a problem and hopefully did not lose the engine. Yes there are other safety measures such as rev limiter and boost limiter doing the same thing, but why not use every safeguard?

 

no doubt you'd want more saftey, just like you said you really set your overboost protection so you 'know' when something went wrong buy not re-enabling the boost til a much lower level.

granted almost all this will be setup when I get the car pro tuned, but I still want to have the ability to make small adjustments down the road

 

 

Did Hal just make a joke?

 

woulda been better with GI Joe

 

The Z has an oil temp sensor while the G does not. Is it possible to use a standard 5V oil temp sender from an autometer gauge and splice it into the haltech wiring thru like AT1 ot AT2?

I know thats what you are doing for the AIT sensor and the widebands.

 

Not all Z's have oil temp either, but on the ones that do... you could grab the wiring off of the sensor to attach a gauge, but calibration will likely be a problem. I don't know for a fact, but I highly doubt the Nissan sensor is going to use the Autometer calibration - so hooking up an autometer gauge would be inaccurate.

 

Hal - how do we know if our cars have a factory sensor? First I've heard of this actually!

 

i was pretty sure that some Zs had oil temp gauges in the 3 gauge pod above the cubby. I have a G35 so i dont have one.

 

str8dum1 - You are referring to oil pressure on the 3 gauge pod. All Z's have that as far as I know. G35s have an oil pressure switch only.

Z1 - I am uncertain of what year/model combinations have oil temp - I believe revups? The sensor is on the front in the oil pan, and yours will either have a plug or a blue sensor.


The 370z has oil temp on the guage pod in place of oil pressure.

 

I know my 08 has an oil temp sensor, and I believe that the revup's do as well.

 

So does the Haltech have "spare" analog inputs (0-5V) if we do not have a factory oil temp sensor (that we might possibly re-purpose)?