Injected Performance brings you HALTECH PLATINUM PNP STANDALONE
#581
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thanks alot!
so for your AIT sensor, you only spliced the aftermarket on into the new Haltech harness, but left the OEM harness alone, correct?
That sounds like what I want to do. I just want the Haltech to see proper AITs after methanol is sprayed.
Raj, i guess the programmable aux line is what I am going to use to trigger my methanol. Maybe Hal knows if that shift light works with the 350z EMS. Seems like plug and play for other models of haltech EMS.
so for your AIT sensor, you only spliced the aftermarket on into the new Haltech harness, but left the OEM harness alone, correct?
That sounds like what I want to do. I just want the Haltech to see proper AITs after methanol is sprayed.
Raj, i guess the programmable aux line is what I am going to use to trigger my methanol. Maybe Hal knows if that shift light works with the 350z EMS. Seems like plug and play for other models of haltech EMS.
#582
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Regarding AIT: If you want to use an aftermarket AIT you can splice it into the factory MAF wiring (Info Here). If you are going to leave the MAF plugged in, you must cut the two air temp wires, otherwise you can just tap onto them. Also remember you need to put the proper air temp calibrations in Haltech if you are using anything other than the stock air temp sensor.
Haltech Shift Light (or any shift light for that matter): Yes, you can use this with the Platinum 350Z unit. This will require setting up a relay with constant power to 30&86, Haltech generic output to 85, and Shift Light +12v to 87.
Two-Step / WOT Shifting: (Info Here) This can be tied to the clutch pedal without the need for an additional switch since the car comes with one from the factory. I don't remember polarity of the switch or if it is normally open or closed, but I do know it will work via a relay as my personal Z is setup this way. I can check later, or grab a multimeter and check it out.
Str8dum1, the harness you have is old - which does not create any problems but you will need some assistance locating the wires that are now found in the breakout connectors. Give me a ring if you need help.
Haltech Shift Light (or any shift light for that matter): Yes, you can use this with the Platinum 350Z unit. This will require setting up a relay with constant power to 30&86, Haltech generic output to 85, and Shift Light +12v to 87.
Two-Step / WOT Shifting: (Info Here) This can be tied to the clutch pedal without the need for an additional switch since the car comes with one from the factory. I don't remember polarity of the switch or if it is normally open or closed, but I do know it will work via a relay as my personal Z is setup this way. I can check later, or grab a multimeter and check it out.
Str8dum1, the harness you have is old - which does not create any problems but you will need some assistance locating the wires that are now found in the breakout connectors. Give me a ring if you need help.
#583
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Regarding AIT: If you want to use an aftermarket AIT you can splice it into the factory MAF wiring (Info Here). If you are going to leave the MAF plugged in, you must cut the two air temp wires, otherwise you can just tap onto them. Also remember you need to put the proper air temp calibrations in Haltech if you are using anything other than the stock air temp sensor.
Two-Step / WOT Shifting: (Info Here) This can be tied to the clutch pedal without the need for an additional switch since the car comes with one from the factory. I don't remember polarity of the switch or if it is normally open or closed, but I do know it will work via a relay as my personal Z is setup this way. I can check later, or grab a multimeter and check it out.
Two-Step / WOT Shifting: (Info Here) This can be tied to the clutch pedal without the need for an additional switch since the car comes with one from the factory. I don't remember polarity of the switch or if it is normally open or closed, but I do know it will work via a relay as my personal Z is setup this way. I can check later, or grab a multimeter and check it out.
As far as the 2 step that was the only instructions I found and that is how I did it.I was also wondering about the OEM switch by the clutch but no one had provided any detail information on that particular setup.
#584
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Glex, Yes it would cause conflict if you just tap onto it while hooked to the MAF.... which is why I said "If you are going to leave the MAF plugged in, you must cut the two air temp wires, otherwise you can just tap onto them."
Regarding the two-step... if I can find a little time I'll look over my work and give a little write up on how to setup two-step/WOT shifting based on stock clutch pedal switch. It was not difficult - just required a multimeter to quickly identify what the switch was doing.
![Smilie](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Regarding the two-step... if I can find a little time I'll look over my work and give a little write up on how to setup two-step/WOT shifting based on stock clutch pedal switch. It was not difficult - just required a multimeter to quickly identify what the switch was doing.
#585
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FYI, the clutch interlock switch is a positive trigger.
One side has battery voltage and the other side nothing. When the clutch is pressed in, the switch should join the 2 and passes the voltage.
so pretty sure you just wire up the 2 step like this (assuming firmware 1.04)
86 clutch switch wire with no voltage
85 ground
30 one side of haltech 2 step wiring
87 other side of haltech 2 step wiring.
so when 86 get voltage from the clutch being depressed it allows 30 and 87 to connect.
One side has battery voltage and the other side nothing. When the clutch is pressed in, the switch should join the 2 and passes the voltage.
so pretty sure you just wire up the 2 step like this (assuming firmware 1.04)
86 clutch switch wire with no voltage
85 ground
30 one side of haltech 2 step wiring
87 other side of haltech 2 step wiring.
so when 86 get voltage from the clutch being depressed it allows 30 and 87 to connect.
Last edited by str8dum1; 07-26-2009 at 12:13 PM.
#586
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Hi Hal,
The install instructions for the Aquamist HFS-6 calls for tapping the fuel injector 1 negative lead to read the fuel injector duty cycle. Where would you recommend tapping the signal? Behind the battery is always an option (I can find the wire using the FSM) but if I can figure out where in the harness to tap, that would be more convenient since the control box will be in the upper glove compartment.
Thanks!
The install instructions for the Aquamist HFS-6 calls for tapping the fuel injector 1 negative lead to read the fuel injector duty cycle. Where would you recommend tapping the signal? Behind the battery is always an option (I can find the wire using the FSM) but if I can figure out where in the harness to tap, that would be more convenient since the control box will be in the upper glove compartment.
Thanks!
#587
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The fuel injectors are controlled by the ECU which is behind the glove box - I would tap there. I always prefer to make taps inside the car whenever possible so the splice isn't subjected to the hazards that are under the hood.
#588
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I guess my question doesn't make sense really since the stock ECU is not in control, there's no point tapping the Haltech harness (that interconnects the Haltech to the stock ECU). I have to tap the outgoing harness that goes up towards the engine bay - that would be stock wiring I guess so I should be able to look it up in the FSM. Got it - thanks.
#591
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ECU Manager V1.05.0 Is now available at haltech website
ECU Manager 1.05.0
New Features
VE Tuning method available for the Sport Series.
Support for the R32/R33 Pro ECU.
Decel Cut channel has been added to all Pro ECU's.
Gear Ratio channel added to the Sport Series.
'Read Ratio' added to Gear Setup page for the Sport Series.
Gear Setup Enable setting has been added to the Sport Series.
Fuel and Ignition Gear Correction tables added to the Sport Series.
Support for saving and loading tab pages from files.
Channels have been added to the Sport Series for every specific output and input.
Changes
Data logging setup has been moved to the F4 page.
Gear setup has been moved from the 'Road Speed' tab page in the 'Inputs' category, to the 'Enhance' category under 'Gear Setup'.
Oil and fuel pressure calibration legal range has been extended from 10 to 30 bar for all ECU's.
'Narrowband Sensor' display range extended from 0 - 1 Volt to 0 - 5 Volts.
The Target Boost table max has been changed to follow the display range of 'Manifold Pressure' channel.
The importing of certain tables from legacy E11/E8 files has been improved.
Improved the unit converter for the flat shift timer setting.
Allow sequential and semi-sequential fuel mode with 'Ford PIP' trigger type.
New Calibration Files
Pressure - Haltech 10 Bar.cal
Temperature - Subaru MY08 Air Sensor.cal
Temperature - Subaru MY08 Coolant Sensor.cal
Temperature - Mitsubishi EVO 10 Coolant Sensor.cal
MAP - Mitsubishi EVO 10 4B11 Mivec 1865A052.cal
New Firmware
Haltech-Sport2000-1.05.0.hfm
Haltech-Sport1000-1.05.0.hfm
Haltech-R32R33-1.05.0.hfm
New MapsDefaults
Sport_2000-105_default.hs2-105
Sport_1000-105_default.hs1-105
Pro_R32R33-105_default.hr32r33-105
Nissan - R32 / R33
Pro_R32R33-105_RB25_VE.hr32r33-105
Pro_R32R33-105_RB26_VE.hr32r33-105
Pro_R32R33-105_RB26_MAF.hr32r33-105
350z new manager link
http://files.haltech.com/downloads/p...05_Release.zip
Hal you can update your website ^_^
ECU Manager 1.05.0
New Features
VE Tuning method available for the Sport Series.
Support for the R32/R33 Pro ECU.
Decel Cut channel has been added to all Pro ECU's.
Gear Ratio channel added to the Sport Series.
'Read Ratio' added to Gear Setup page for the Sport Series.
Gear Setup Enable setting has been added to the Sport Series.
Fuel and Ignition Gear Correction tables added to the Sport Series.
Support for saving and loading tab pages from files.
Channels have been added to the Sport Series for every specific output and input.
Changes
Data logging setup has been moved to the F4 page.
Gear setup has been moved from the 'Road Speed' tab page in the 'Inputs' category, to the 'Enhance' category under 'Gear Setup'.
Oil and fuel pressure calibration legal range has been extended from 10 to 30 bar for all ECU's.
'Narrowband Sensor' display range extended from 0 - 1 Volt to 0 - 5 Volts.
The Target Boost table max has been changed to follow the display range of 'Manifold Pressure' channel.
The importing of certain tables from legacy E11/E8 files has been improved.
Improved the unit converter for the flat shift timer setting.
Allow sequential and semi-sequential fuel mode with 'Ford PIP' trigger type.
New Calibration Files
Pressure - Haltech 10 Bar.cal
Temperature - Subaru MY08 Air Sensor.cal
Temperature - Subaru MY08 Coolant Sensor.cal
Temperature - Mitsubishi EVO 10 Coolant Sensor.cal
MAP - Mitsubishi EVO 10 4B11 Mivec 1865A052.cal
New Firmware
Haltech-Sport2000-1.05.0.hfm
Haltech-Sport1000-1.05.0.hfm
Haltech-R32R33-1.05.0.hfm
New MapsDefaults
Sport_2000-105_default.hs2-105
Sport_1000-105_default.hs1-105
Pro_R32R33-105_default.hr32r33-105
Nissan - R32 / R33
Pro_R32R33-105_RB25_VE.hr32r33-105
Pro_R32R33-105_RB26_VE.hr32r33-105
Pro_R32R33-105_RB26_MAF.hr32r33-105
350z new manager link
http://files.haltech.com/downloads/p...05_Release.zip
Hal you can update your website ^_^