Injected Performance brings you HALTECH PLATINUM PNP STANDALONE
11-20-2009, 05:08 AM
#641
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I guess I am simply used to monitering gauges periodically - I don't find it distracting at all. That is what I love about the Racepak - it is all right there in front of me, without having to look all over at various gauges.
11-22-2009, 08:53 AM
#643
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There is a pic on here somewhere with the racepak dash installed in the cubby. That was my plan ditch the A pillar and go with racepak. But I never got that far.
11-22-2009, 02:55 PM
#645
ve seen a couple done, but its easier in a Z than a G, just bc you guys have that cubby and we dont. I saw one in a G where the cut it into right in front of the shifter.
I can only do the most remedial of fiberglass, like my sub box. my kickpanels were done by a pro and to fit a racepak would also have to be done by a pro.
any word when the latest firmware/software is going to be released?
I can only do the most remedial of fiberglass, like my sub box. my kickpanels were done by a pro and to fit a racepak would also have to be done by a pro.
any word when the latest firmware/software is going to be released?
11-24-2009, 05:27 AM
#647
Your Haltech is a standalone fuel, ignition and cam timing system. The engine will start and run regardless of the immobilizers state of being. If you are trying to start the engine on an engine dyno, you will either need to use a mechanical throttle body or still incorporate the stock ecu to drive the electronic throttle blade. This remains true of all ems options for the 350Z currently.
11-24-2009, 05:55 AM
#648
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ve seen a couple done, but its easier in a Z than a G, just bc you guys have that cubby and we dont. I saw one in a G where the cut it into right in front of the shifter.
I can only do the most remedial of fiberglass, like my sub box. my kickpanels were done by a pro and to fit a racepak would also have to be done by a pro.
I can only do the most remedial of fiberglass, like my sub box. my kickpanels were done by a pro and to fit a racepak would also have to be done by a pro.
Here is mine installed. Sorry for the low res pics, it's hard taking a good pic with the car in the shop (damn flourescents). This required a bunch of wiring in order to fully replace the factory cluster, and I am still working on fully integrating everything. My next goal is getting the factory data gauge (the first one on the left in the center of the dash) to work perfectly (it is integrated into the factory cluster, so we need to make it work more as a standalone). I am then going to tackle getting the buttons on the side of the factory housing to change the brightness levels on Racepak as needed and also to scroll through pages. That will be more of a winter project. Right now I am working with Racepak on some other updates that I'll post about when they are completed. It's a work in progess for sure, but so far, so good. I have the display model. The logging one would have made things a bit easier to integrate fully as they have more functions, but I am happy with my decision. The cleanliness and functionality of this thing is amazing relative to the price, and the fact that it's a plug and play to the Haltech is a huge, huge bonus.
more on the project:
http://cornerbalance.wordpress.com/2...ash-installed/
http://cornerbalance.wordpress.com/2...up-the-booyah/
Last edited by Z1 Performance; 11-24-2009 at 06:00 AM.
11-24-2009, 05:57 AM
#649
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Your Haltech is a standalone fuel, ignition and cam timing system. The engine will start and run regardless of the immobilizers state of being. If you are trying to start the engine on an engine dyno, you will either need to use a mechanical throttle body or still incorporate the stock ecu to drive the electronic throttle blade. This remains true of all ems options for the 350Z currently.
11-24-2009, 08:18 AM
#652
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Makes me fall in love with Haltech again 
12-01-2009, 08:44 PM
#653
I (hopefully) am done wiring in my Haltech and just wanted to double check the widebands.
I dont have the breakout, so I had to cut C7 and C9. I am using a single AEM, so I just took the 0-5V signal from the AEM and soldered it to the C7 and C9 wires going into the white connector. The diagram said wire side, so C9 was top row and 2nd to the left. Hope I read that right as well
I left the other ends of the cut wires unconnected. Is that correct? Sucks you can't do any setup stuff (wideband cal, output settings, etc) without the haltech connected to the car. I was able to put my battery back in and it did connect, so thats good.
but i only tried it for a few mins bc nothing else on the harness is connected and stuff was clicking and making all sorts of noises. dont need a meltdown now
Oh ya, Hal what do you need to know in order to send a startup map?
I'm running HKS 1000cc at 46psi base fuel pressure, 9:0 compression on a 3.5l with JWT C2 cams. Thanks!
I dont have the breakout, so I had to cut C7 and C9. I am using a single AEM, so I just took the 0-5V signal from the AEM and soldered it to the C7 and C9 wires going into the white connector. The diagram said wire side, so C9 was top row and 2nd to the left. Hope I read that right as well
I left the other ends of the cut wires unconnected. Is that correct? Sucks you can't do any setup stuff (wideband cal, output settings, etc) without the haltech connected to the car. I was able to put my battery back in and it did connect, so thats good.
but i only tried it for a few mins bc nothing else on the harness is connected and stuff was clicking and making all sorts of noises. dont need a meltdown now
Oh ya, Hal what do you need to know in order to send a startup map?
I'm running HKS 1000cc at 46psi base fuel pressure, 9:0 compression on a 3.5l with JWT C2 cams. Thanks!
Last edited by str8dum1; 12-01-2009 at 09:00 PM.
12-02-2009, 05:16 AM
#654
^ Those are the correct two wires for wideband inputs. Also I have found it best to power/ground the wideband from the harness as well to alleviate any ground offset issues.
I am not sure what you are complaining about with regards to "setup stuff without the haltech connected" as everything is available 'offline'. Open the software and File->Load your map.
For a map, email me (
) your ECU serial number, as well as the information on your setup (specifically engine description, setup description, fuel system (including rfs or not and base pressure if so, as well as vac/boost referenced?).
I am not sure what you are complaining about with regards to "setup stuff without the haltech connected" as everything is available 'offline'. Open the software and File->Load your map.
For a map, email me (
) your ECU serial number, as well as the information on your setup (specifically engine description, setup description, fuel system (including rfs or not and base pressure if so, as well as vac/boost referenced?).
12-02-2009, 05:44 AM
#655
well i dont have map, so i just have to read from the haltech. So i didnt realize that you have full functionality of the haltech sitting on your desk in your office, like my old UTEC using a 9V battery. Had I known that I coulda got a better feel for the software from the comfort of my lounger
The instructions dont mention and power and ground wires. which wire #'s are those?
Realistically , I'm not going to change my wiring as its finally shoved up in the dash and that took me almost 4 hours to get it all situated.
I guess I'll have RCdash help me with a base map, as I am not pulling that out again to get the serial #. Is there a way to get the serial # thru the software?
The instructions dont mention and power and ground wires. which wire #'s are those?
Realistically , I'm not going to change my wiring as its finally shoved up in the dash and that took me almost 4 hours to get it all situated.
I guess I'll have RCdash help me with a base map, as I am not pulling that out again to get the serial #. Is there a way to get the serial # thru the software?
Last edited by str8dum1; 12-02-2009 at 05:46 AM.
12-02-2009, 06:51 AM
#656
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well i dont have map, so i just have to read from the haltech. So i didnt realize that you have full functionality of the haltech sitting on your desk in your office, like my old UTEC using a 9V battery. Had I known that I coulda got a better feel for the software from the comfort of my lounger
The instructions dont mention and power and ground wires. which wire #'s are those?
Realistically , I'm not going to change my wiring as its finally shoved up in the dash and that took me almost 4 hours to get it all situated.
I guess I'll have RCdash help me with a base map, as I am not pulling that out again to get the serial #. Is there a way to get the serial # thru the software?
The instructions dont mention and power and ground wires. which wire #'s are those?
Realistically , I'm not going to change my wiring as its finally shoved up in the dash and that took me almost 4 hours to get it all situated.
I guess I'll have RCdash help me with a base map, as I am not pulling that out again to get the serial #. Is there a way to get the serial # thru the software?
12-02-2009, 08:23 AM
#658
Must've been a pain to fit up there with your custom speakers built into the kick panel. I had to "customize" my kick panel because of the large wiring bundle. I'm looking forward to see how neatly tucked away it is. 
Attached is what I use for HKS 1000 cc injector dead times.
EDIT: Hal, do you ground the Haltech casing to chassis ground? I noticed the screws that hold the red casing on are grounded - never had a problem, just wondering...
Attached is what I use for HKS 1000 cc injector dead times.
EDIT: Hal, do you ground the Haltech casing to chassis ground? I noticed the screws that hold the red casing on are grounded - never had a problem, just wondering...
Last edited by rcdash; 12-02-2009 at 08:31 AM.
12-02-2009, 08:49 AM
#659
its actually very neat and compact. thats why i dont wanna mess with it bc I could prolly never get it back the same way. Plus I have all 3 breakouts getting used plus the wideband wiring.
Once I get the car back together, we'll have to get together for a crash course.
Once I get the car back together, we'll have to get together for a crash course.
12-02-2009, 11:33 AM
#660
well i dont have map, so i just have to read from the haltech. So i didnt realize that you have full functionality of the haltech sitting on your desk in your office, like my old UTEC using a 9V battery. Had I known that I coulda got a better feel for the software from the comfort of my lounger
The instructions dont mention and power and ground wires. which wire #'s are those?
Realistically , I'm not going to change my wiring as its finally shoved up in the dash and that took me almost 4 hours to get it all situated.
I guess I'll have RCdash help me with a base map, as I am not pulling that out again to get the serial #. Is there a way to get the serial # thru the software?
The instructions dont mention and power and ground wires. which wire #'s are those?
Realistically , I'm not going to change my wiring as its finally shoved up in the dash and that took me almost 4 hours to get it all situated.
I guess I'll have RCdash help me with a base map, as I am not pulling that out again to get the serial #. Is there a way to get the serial # thru the software?
Power and ground for widebands are included wideband breakout connector on the current patch harnesses. Otherwise they can be found on the following pins on harnesses w/out wideband breakout:
C1 - 12v
C10 - Ground
Serial number is found on the ecu or in the software via Tools->Firmware Version. Feel free to seek base map assistance elsewhere if you do not want to provide your serial - I would suggest contacting whoever you purchased the unit from.