when my front translinks were doing what you described i was at a loss at what it was till i inspected...it felt like something was seriously loose...and well, it was...lol...

i mean, of course inspect the rear, get wrenches on all rear suspension points and ensure they are not loose, etc....

post up what you find.......
-J

 

Couldn't find anything unusual so I changed both bushings on the lower control arm, one to the suspension and another one to the subframe. Didn't help
Got another recommendation to change both bushings on radius rod, but I doubt it's gonna help, they look fine. Don't know what else to do, car almost undrivable that's how bad it is. I checked everything on a back and didn't find anything.
Going to do an alignment again.

 

Any ideas Jason ?

 

Read thru the beginning of this thread but stopped there. wanted to lower the car so went ahead and did that with eibach springs. to realign alignment got an adjustable front a-arm and an ebay toe and camber godspeed kit off ebay. put a few thousand miles on car and heard a clunking sound from rear. brought car to shop to put on lift for inspection. the drivers side radius/traction rod was broken in half. you tube has a video on ebay godspeed camber/toe kit which shows another Z at the track with a broken rear radius rod. if had read thru this entire thread.. would have saved some grief. Thanks my350z community and Jason for the priceless info. Don't buy ebay godspeed products and don't replace the rear radius/traction rod.

 

^^ odds are that rear #23 "radius rod", on top of poor quality, was also adjusted wrong, where one side of the car was longer than the other and the misaligned side was taking way too much load/forces and finally snapped...



I mention earlier in this thread about this - and that it shouldn't be changed unless you know exactly what your doing......the oem is fine because its strong, at the very least you can change the bushing out in it, but its not a bushing that tears, gives way, etc...its compliance is minimal....
-J

 

... this is turning into more than a 2 question general suspension inquiry. Starting a repair thread in maint. section. Don't want to junk up a information only sticky!

 

Without purchasing true coilovers or purchasing the SPL Mid-Link, are there any other options for allowing more freedom of movement for the toe arm?

I bought OEM coilovers and would prefer to avoid buying the $800 SPL Mid-Link

Is there an SPL bushing that could be a candidate for replacing the bushing in the bucket spring?

https://www.splparts.com/store/produ...hp?pid278.html

Maybe an Energy Suspension bushing that's well lubricated and torqued properly?

 

Whiteline offers one, I had them on mine when I ran OEM spring buckets. It removed a lot of stiction from the arm.

 

Like i mentioned before - have a machine shop fabricate you some eccentric toe bolts with tighter tolerances, stronger bolt, etc...

-J

 

I'm listening J

Thank you guys , I'll do both.

 

I installed a set of Eibach pro springs on my 2004 coupe. The ride height did not change. The top coils of the springs have clear rubber sleeves on them. Should these be removed to allow the springs to compress further? Also along with the springs, I installed a set of Bilstein shocks, SPC rear toe bolts and SPL adjustable lower link and front SPC upper control arms. I checked the rear to make sure that the lowering part of the springs were setup correctly in the spring bucket. I also checked to make sure the front springs are set correctly in the spring mount of the struts. I realize that I should allow the springs to settle in before havnig an alignment done, but I thought I should see some drop after1 day.

 

I installed the Eibach springs so that you can read the lettering on the springs (right side up).

 

Thank you for this wealth of information on the Z's suspension! I have read it about 3 or 4 times and made countless references to it but I am left with one question... When I go and look at my car I see this bolt that sticks down in the front. Upon measuring it I seem to come up with about an inch above the tire! I know people drop their Z's lower than 1 inch in the front though so I'm curious as to how? Thanks!

 

That bolt is in the spindle , and kinda moves at the exact same rate as the tires and wheel. It's almost like it is connected.

 

Post #1 buddy - its called SLA suspension! like terrasmack said, its part of the front spindle - google images of SLA supension and see vids on how it works.


because of the Z's SLA suspension design - is one of the main reasons this car is a great sports car for the money....think about it..for its time (2003) and even now on the 370z.....you have to spend much more money before you get a sports car with great suspension like this.....bmw, etc...

-J

 

Alright thanks guys, upon looking at the diagram in the first post a lot closer I realize what you are saying now... that since the pieces are connected, when one moves so does the other so it doesn't really matter that its close to the tire because it moves the same distance as the tire. Sorry for the noob question lol. On another note what have people had the best luck with regarding either the removal or modification of the wheel well guard? The two pieces of plastic under the fender that keep all the nasty road grime out of your car? Obviously if you lower enough/have large tires/etc. you are going to hit the plastic under-fender guard. People seem to have very different opinions on this topic though. Some say keep them on and modify them so it protects the back of your headlights and keeps your engine bay cleaner but others say you are fine without them any suggestions?

 

Fantastic read, learned so much in one thread

 

What is the best coilover to buy to slam my Z? I just really wanted some feedback before I spend a fortune and it's not what I want. I was looking at Stance Street. Do those camber well? . Will those do what I want? Any feedback would be nice. Thanks, Troy.

 

d2 for the low

 

What are d2?