eyedeekay

First, my car is a 2006 Infiniti m35, but the engine is exactly the same as the 03-04 nonrevup DE Z's, with the exception of the intake and exhaust. I posted on the Infiniti forums but I would like to see what you guys over in the z forums say.

To get it out of the way, here is the important stuff

• Car has 271,000 miles
• Car has z tube, plenum spacer, and testpipes
• The only Codes are p0011 p0021. Won't go away after clearing with obdii
  • Main Timing chain checked, it's all good and tensioned up. Pretty sure was changed by previous owner so who knows, might have messed up install
• Both VVT Solenoids changed
• Crank and both camshaft sensors changed.
• Idle around 700-800
• ECU and idle relearn already done
• New sparkplugs

Things I have not done yet that I can think of:

• Check oil pressure
• Check compression
• Possibly check the timing chains with VVT Sprockets?
• Valve cover gasket leak. Oil also coming out of sparkplug seals (getting this fixed Friday)
• Check ALL fuses, harnesses, or any other electrical related things.

So after listing everything off, my question is; what is the most likely cause of such a significant power loss? The car has a really hard time going through basically the whole rpm range, but moreso after 4000-4500 rpm. The auto transmission actually shift at 6000 rpm rather than 6600-6700 rpm as a result. I have included a video of the acceleration.

Based of the video, someone on the g35 forums states the cars VVT is not advancing at all.

masterjr33

cam timings off . or VVT's not moving.
get it to someone who can monitor those.
or pull the front end down and look it over.

rustyschopshop

Would concider getting a oil pressure diagnostic at the dealer or any shop that specializes in Z's. Have a feeling the gallery gasket is leaking in the timing cover loosing pressure to the vvt and cam phasers

eyedeekay

Do these gaskets fail on DE's too? I thought it was just an HR problem from my research. About my oil pressure I forgot to note some important things:

Upon cold start, immediately driving the car it seems to perform significantly better for a just a few minutes. The car engine even sounds deeper and throatier, maybe this is when VVT is actually working? However, when it warms to operating temperature the performance is the same again.

Also, I just got my valve cover gaskets changed for a pretty bad leak, but for the past two months i have the issue where my oil pressure light would come on when I stopped/braked too hard. Every time this occurred I would just fill the oil a quart and it would go away for a week or two.

From my understanding, the VVT works based off of oil pressure, and p0011 and p0021 from my research typically occur together due to low oil pressure. Is there any other causes to low oil pressure besides the galley gaskets?

rustyschopshop

if the oil light is coming on during braking more than likely you oil level is too low. Bad thing is every time the light is coming on from oil being low you are doing engine damage. Would highly recommend checking and adding oil more frequently.

eyedeekay

I'm going to change the oil tomorrow, I will try to see how much oil was left. The dipsticks is kind of hard to read, I usually get a scattered mess or nothing at all even when the car is cold. Any recommendations for better readings?

travlee

iTrader: (8)

Glasses

jhc

If you are parking on level ground, waiting 5 minutes and remove/wipe the dipstick and see nothing at all you are confirming what Rusty says above. ^^^^^
Generally if you see nothing on a dipstick you are at least 2 quarts low. At your mileage even new oil won't be honey - colored but darker and should be very easy to spot. Friendly advice- watch a YT on how to check oil level. If you continue to run it on 3 quarts (or less) it will pay you back with permanent engine problems.

eyedeekay

Alright, so when the oil light is on the car most likely has 3 quarts or less? Unfortunately wasn't able to get oil changed today, will change on Tuesday.

I didn't clarify well but regardless of how much oil I still get a scattered reading, even right after an oil change when the engine is cool enough the dipstick is still hard to read. Its like my stick isnt catching the oil.

jhc

I don't know when the light comes on bc honestly I've never been in that situation. Mb the stick is bent slightly or more likely it's not getting seated all the way.
If it were mine, I'd pay $18 at the dealer for another. If your valves all of a sudden get loud, pull over quickly.