Yes but you still need the Solenoid to control your wastegate. Utec has another map that control the Solenoid.

 

yes, you just need a solenoid and a "pin" to hook into the UTEC harness plug.

 

I just read all 10 pages and Ive learned quite a bit.

Was Audible Mayhem able to successfully tune using speed density mode for full control?? Or anyone else? Its been almost 2 yrs.

 

Don't think so

 

Audible Mayhem???

 

Are you talking about using MAF and Speed Density?

 

Just bought a utec and tuner, I have a question. The tuner plugs into the back of the utec with the serial cable. After I plug the tuner into the back of the UTEC, than how do I plug the UTEC into my laptap, what connections do I use. Should, I only have one cable going to my laptop, since I know should be able to read data from the tuner and UTEC on my laptop. Just need some help with my connections.

 

You plug into the tuner Utec to Tuner pro then to Lap top The port is in the front of the tuner if you are using a tuner pro.

 

So the laptop connects to the tuner, not the utec. What kind of cable? This is the one of have

 

Serial. You may need a USB - Serial adapter if your laptop is newer and may not have serial port on it. Search the forums here. All of these questions and more have been answered. Most of your questions are answered in the instruction manuals, actually. Have you read those thoroughly?

 

I have read through the manuals and honestly they don't do a real good job. The manual I get from turboxs on the tuner looks like its from there old one. Its totally different, I going to email them right now.

 

No need to read the manual for the Tuner as it doesnt tell you much. The Tuner is just a 'bridge' to the UTEC anyways and is only there to give you A/F readouts, thats it.

The manual is pretty informative, you just have to understand what it is trying to say. You MUST read it, then read it again. Then read it a 3rd time because every time you pick it up, you learn something new.

Tuning the UTEC NA is pretty easy and not really necessary to get it as close to perfect like you would if you were FI. The UTEC, IMHO, is overkill for a NA setup. Your better off going with a reflash, but again, that is my opinion.. I have tuned many UTECs NA and FI too..

 

Ok, so currently I'm going to school for automotives, and I've already covered Open loop, and I was wondering why you guys tune in Open Loop? Open Loop is when the engine is cold and is taking readings of ECT and 02S correct? If the UTEC is programmed in Open Loop and then controls the car in that stage. Wouldn't that cause damage to the engine? I can understand if you guys are trying to go for more Rich mixture, thats why Open loop exist, rich A/F heats the car up quicker. But in the long run isn't more damage done if tune in this mode?

EDIT: Oh and isn't a 14.7/1 - A/F then ideal mixture? (For emissions atleast) if you go down on the air, that means you choke the burning process. You'd need to know compression of the chamber and how high the compression gets as RPM increases (Also the resistance of the spark plug increases as well). Going too Rich and advancing time too much is bad to say the least isnt it?

Correct if I am wrong in any of my statements, more I am corrected more I learn.

 

Your tuner came with a cabel that looks ike a telephone cable(RJ12). plug that cable into the Tuner and run i out to your laptop. You should have also received an RJ12-Serial adapter with your TXS Tuner. Use that adapter to connect to your laptop, OR if you don't have a serial connection, you need to use a USB-Serial adapter also. It's alot of adapters, but that's how it works.

to summarize:

LAPTOP to USB-Serial adapter to Serial-RJ12 adapter to RJ12 cable to TXS TUNER to serial cable to UTEC.

 

My thought is use a serial cable to connect the tuner to the utec and coming off the utec use the RJ12 to my laptop. So that would give me the ability to tune the utec.

 

Here's how I mounted my tuner (on passenger side):

https://my350z.com/forum/tuning/315130-txs-tuner-install-so-you-can-see-the-afr-readout.html

 

We tune for open loop in mainly boosted cars, so when we enter into boost, it switches from closed loop to open loop (fixed fuel map). I believe the reason for this is because we want to run around 11.5-12.5 AF (i believe is the ideal for VQ motors) while under boost but the ecu will aim for 14.7 if its in open loop. Correct me if im wrong guys.

 

The stoichiometric A/F ratio of gasoline is 14.7 and that is why car run on that A/F when cruising around. 13.3:1 is approximate lean best torque and 11.5:1 is approximate Rich best TQ. When WOT, you don't see any car run 14.7:1 even the the stock ECU don't do that. FI'd cars run in the low 11's to add extra cooling and to give the car extra margin for error.

 

So then what about N/A 350z's. I just picked up How to tune an Engine Manage System from workshop I believe it's called. Just to read up on it. I'm going through a class with Fuels and Emissions, hence my interests on Tuning.

 

Open/closed loop fueling - Same thing for NA. No different than boosted.

"Closed Loop" simply means the ECU is driving the injectors & timing based off it's own targets.
"Open Loop" means the UTEC is driving the injectors & timing off it's own internal user defined tables.

There is a 'transition' from closed loop to open loop and back again, as the ECU and UTEC trade off control of engine management.