Here is a screen capture of mine. You can see what Sharif was talking about by looking at this screen.

Later
Aceman

 

hey man i would put your knock count threshold at 3, that way it wont pick up random engine noises and kill your car, if it knocks three times in a row, you have a problem...



yes sharif, i meant in maf pulldown, NA cars. sorry

 

I have it set there now, this was a old screen shot. So how are things going on your end?

 

so for na, to have full control...do you need the MAF utec sensor?

still trying to see what i need here and i want to have a unit that does not piggy back.

thanks

 

I think Jermaine needs to answer that. If you run a MAP sensor on an NA car, you will hit near 0psi (no vaccum) as soon as your floor the accelarator. I dont think that is sufficient resolution to tune the engine...but I am not 100% sure, since i havent tried using a MAP sensor on an NA car.

 

As far as I understood it, you need the MAP because the Stock MAF has no resolution beyond 5-6 psi. Which would lead me to believe that you only need MAP for FI above 5 psi...

Danny

 

The MAF sensor maxes out a little bit more than 300whp, so even 5-6psi will max out the MAF sensor. A MAP sensor is required for FI.

 

i am about to try to tune my utec to speed density mode NA, i figure that i will set the WOT at 0psi. all i care about is 100% tps. i can slowly figure out the rest to make it run smooth.


i will let you guys know how it works out. i would like to have a base map for a low turbo psi (5.5 maybe) so i can take out some percent and run it NA. i have a feeling i can get this to work and then it wont be piggybacked...

 

FYI, Jermaine is running his car in speed density mode N/A and he maxed out his MAF voltage..

 

nice man, my goal is to get rid of that stupid nissan computer influence. thanks for the tuner wb. it worked for about 25 minutes. something happened to it. all the lights went out and it stopped working correctly. i checked the power and ground a million times (im an electrician and former car stereo installer) everything was fine on the wire side. i 2 day mailed it back to TXS. i hope they can look at it and let me know what it is and fix/or replace it.

thanks for the great service and fast shipping MRC. i appreciate all your help.

please pass on a word to TXS if you could that you just shipped that out and i just installed it. thanks again!!!


jeremy

 

I talked to Jermaine today, it was just a fuse that was blown in the unit.Recheck the way to have it wired and the 12V source your using. Let me know if you have any problems..

 

THANK YOU!!!! i checked it a few times, i grabbed my volt meter outta my truck and check it all. thanks again man. i will just reroute and check everything again. THANKS again. i need to get this beast tuned and running good.....

 

Would anyone have any idea why I've lost a good bit of power over 5700 RPM since the UTEC was installed? Even using "ECU" in fuel and timing maps over 5750 or with the UTEC on map 0. I also tried resetting the ECU's learned fuel settings.

 

Have you dyno tuned it? The base map that comes with the utec is pretty conservative and does not really make power.In some cases it looses power...You really need to fine tune for your mods, since each car is different.

 

I tried more agressive timing up there, stock timing, and the UTEC basemap timing, all of them feel very weak. The AFRs up there are generally within acceptable ranges (besides the two banks being a bit different, one around 12, one around 13).
And even on map 0 (stock setting) the car feels so much weaker above 5700 than it did before the UTEC. I don't get it. If I put it on map 0, shouldn't it act like before? It feels so against revving to redline now.

edit: I was messing with it more, and around 6300 RPM the power almost completly dies and the car virtually stops accelerating. Urg.

 

yeah my map 0 on my car doesnt run exactly like my stock computer. if i take out the utec and just run the stock ecu, my AFR is around 13.1, if i leave it in and put it on map 0 my AFR is around 12.5s

have you taken out the utec and checked if your car is running that way with the stock computer.


i would hook the utec up and re flash it. then put all the base map figures in and work from there. its really easy to do if you follow the manual. make sure you right down any of your maps you like if you have them in there now... good luck

 

Thanks for the advice. I'll give that a try tonight.

edit: My UTEC shows software version 2.6, but the website only shows 2.3. Should I still flash it?

 

My UTEC should be coming in today. I can't wait. Does anyone know if the UTEC has any type of MIL elimination capabilities for cat inneficiency. I thought I read in another thread that it did. I have test pipe non-foulers, but I'd rather not use them if I don't have to.

 

well if you are NA then no. because the utec just changes the MAF voltage going to the computer. so if the computer is running in limp mode, the maf voltage change will just alter the limp mode fuel.

if you are FI then it acts like a stand alone and will not matter with or without the O2 cel you will get.

a couple people are actually running it NA with the MAP sensor set to 0 psi, i am going to try to do this as soon as my tuner wideband gets back here...

THANKS TURBOXS FOR FIXING THE INTERNAL FUSE AND THANKS MRC FOR GIVING THEM THE HEADS UP!!!

 

Ahhh, thanks. I was hoping the UTEC would have some sort of signal clamping for the 02 sensor inputs. Oh well.