AAM is literally an hour from me.

My mods are....popcharger, aam plenum, test pipes, pulley, exhaust. Should the reflash pull all these together? I am done with performance modding my car. No turbo or Supercharger or nitrous coming my way.

Any thoughts.

 

if your finish then yes.

 

I say skip the reflash and get a piggyback

 

Hey Scarface, what would be the advantage of the piggyback vs. a reflash? Looking at my mods, which piggyback would be best? I don't think FI is in my future either. Thanx Bro.

 

The piggyback will allow you or your tuner to have greater precision in tuning your car for your exact mods. The reflash is kind of a "generic" tuning method for what is expected of the mods you have. All cars will act differently given the exact same mods and because of this, many guys have had to send their ECUs out to TS or AAM multiple times to get everything correct. And if you do decide to do more mods in the future, you will have to have it reflashed again.

You can also get the Technosquare L-SPEC reflash which raises the rev limiter to 7100 or 7200 RPMS, it cuts the speed limiter and it allows the TB to open 100%. I think that is what the L-SPEC does. I think this reflash is $495 from TS unless they have raised their price. You can run this reflash option in conjunction with a piggyback for even better results!

I know the AAM reflash does some things with the timing to remove the 3 (?) stock maps for bad gas, etc which is supposed to be really good from what I have heard.

As for picking a piggyback, there are several ut there but probably the best are the GReddy Emanage Ultimate, the TurboXS UTEC and the HKS FCON. This route is more expensive than just a reflash, but it should be more precise.

 

If you can get a custom AAM reflash while the car is on the Dyno then I would recommend that. The reflash is nice if you can get it done while on the dyno specific to your car. The reflash falls short when you have to tune though the mail. AAM has done both types of tuning, they may give you an honest opinion given your car and your goals. If you ever plan to sell the car and want to part things out, a UTEC or EU may be the better option since you can sell that part easily and return back to the stock ECU flash.

 

I am gonna drive to AAM cause its only an hour from my house and get it done and tuned right there. I think it should work nicely like that. No downtime.

 

Get the Utec. I've seen nothing but sucess stories from everyone who has them installed. From the looks of things reflashes will become obsolete.

 

The reflash is in my budget though. Don't really want to spend too much money.

Mortgage and Luxuries > UTEC

 

If your done have Mike@ AAM tune your car via the stock ECU. It will provide the same gains as a tuned UTEC and save you $$$. I was just there yesterday and he had a G on the dyno, produced awesome midrange gains....

 

cool thread. in the exact same position as you sprazyo, and close to AAM as well. if you could, let me know when you get the reflash done and how it turns out.

thinking of hitting AAM in the next week or two for a dyno and reflash, myself

 

If you can get it reflashed on a dyno and you're done with mods, that'd be a good choice. Otherwise, the future-proof-ness, if you will, of the piggyback is a better idea.

Oh, and the cost isn't that much different. A flash is what, $600? I got my UTEC for $850 shipped brand new. So if you ever might flash again down the road, the UTEC is a better deal.

 

The main cost difference is in the install and tuning costs. I would assume install will run about $300 or so and then tuning will be another $600+. Someone who has installed and had 1 tuned chime in on costs.

 

Its easy as crap to install. Takes maybe 30 minutes at the most and is easily self-done. Anyone who pays 300 bucks to get that job done got totally ripped off. Its a plug-n-play system.

(ps if that sounded harsh its not supposed to.. haha)

A local tuner around here charges $150 to dyno-tune a UTEC. Or, if you have some sort of AFR logging device, you can make a buncha maps yourself, then go dyno them all for around $50 and use the best one.

 

OK, I may be way off in left field on this one. But, for some reason, that was what I was thinking I have read somewhere on here.