2007 VQ35HR Engine Oil Analysis
08-26-2008, 05:27 AM
#161
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You need to check the mix on your matter/anti-matter injectors, then possibly re-align the dylithium crystals. Makes all the difference between warp 8.5 and warp 9.
Captain Kirk
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08-27-2008, 09:02 AM
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looking for some advice on what oil to use for the 6,500 mile change. it will be my first change in the car as I bought it over last week, and picked her up. the guy used synthetic for the last oil change, and had the oil changed at 1200 per break in from the manual I guess at the dealer.
looking for some better performance and some use on tr ack. looking between 0w-30 and 5w-30... not sure yet on "who"
looking for some better performance and some use on tr ack. looking between 0w-30 and 5w-30... not sure yet on "who"
08-28-2008, 04:31 AM
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UOA on Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 from VQ35HR
An earlier poster on this forum wondered why no one has listed UOA's from PP 5w-30 out of a VQ35HR. Well, it's from a G35 rather than a Z, but here's my latest.
I'm thinking the PP 5w-30 has fallen a bit short due to shearing in the VQ35 after only 3400+ miles.
Any have any thoughts?
I'm thinking the PP 5w-30 has fallen a bit short due to shearing in the VQ35 after only 3400+ miles.
Any have any thoughts?
08-28-2008, 04:38 AM
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Originally Posted by XR400R
An earlier poster on this forum wondered why no one has listed UOA's from PP 5w-30 out of a VQ35HR. Well, it's from a G35 rather than a Z, but here's my latest.
I'm thinking the PP 5w-30 has fallen a bit short due to shearing in the VQ35 after only 3400+ miles.
Any have any thoughts?
I'm thinking the PP 5w-30 has fallen a bit short due to shearing in the VQ35 after only 3400+ miles.
Any have any thoughts?
09-04-2008, 07:34 PM
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got a great deal goin on at Pepboys, found and picked up a bunch of Castrol 0W30 ero blend, and a filter for 24.99 not bad. looking forward to get some good results for the 6500 mile change.
09-16-2008, 03:53 AM
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Originally Posted by jason350z
i have an 08 now with 120 miles. when do you guys recomend to get the first oil change, 1200 after break in VS. 3,000 as per owners manual?
Originally Posted by sasquatch308
looking for some advice on what oil to use for the 6,500 mile change. it will be my first change in the car as I bought it over last week, and picked her up. the guy used synthetic for the last oil change, and had the oil changed at 1200 per break in from the manual I guess at the dealer.
looking for some better performance and some use on tr ack. looking between 0w-30 and 5w-30... not sure yet on "who"
looking for some better performance and some use on tr ack. looking between 0w-30 and 5w-30... not sure yet on "who"
As for what oil on the track, can't help you there, since I don't track. Sorry
11-12-2008, 05:45 PM
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Just got my analysis back. Everything seems "ok." Confirms my 5k oil change interval should be fine for the next few changes. I say it seems okay because comparing with the other reports the metals that are high on my report came down on others with more miles (so maybe the motor is still breaking in).
And it appears Royal Purple's additives last a LOT longer than Amsoil's do.
And it appears Royal Purple's additives last a LOT longer than Amsoil's do.
11-13-2008, 07:15 AM
#172
First, there is a fallacy in associating TBN with all oil additives, since base stocks play a role in this and not all the additives are there to neutralize acid. So I wouldn't make such a broad statement that any oil with a good TBN has additives that "last a LOT longer" than an oil with a lower TBN for the same mileage. Especially if we don't know what the TBN was to begin with.
Second, there is little correlation between TBN and wear protection. The higher the TBN, the more base left in the oil. It is a great indicator for whether the oil is suitable for extended drains, and that is about it. I would take a higher TBN over a lower one any day as long as the wear metals were low and the oil is still in grade. However, protection and shear stability trump TBN any day, even in terms of drain interval. There is no point in using an oil for an extended oil drain interval just because the TBN is still high, if the wear metals and viscosity are poor.
Your oil looks decent... but then we don't know what it is, do we? RP 5W-30, 10W-30..? Either way, it's barely a 30 weight any more, with a cSt of 9.4 (9.3 is the cut-off from a 30wt to a 20 wt.) Al is high. Check your air filter and intake. Hopefully it's form ingestion of AlSi and not piston wear. Still, this is one of the better looking RP UOA's we've seen. I also think the HR is just easier on the oil than the DE.
Whether or not the wear results and relatively low TBN are worth the money you dish out for RP- that's up to you. But before making a misguided claim about RP additives and Amsoil, consider the fact that most, if not all, of the 30 weight Amsoil UOA's look better for the same mileage than your RP sample. In fact, I bet PP 5W-30 or 10W-30 would handle a 5800 mile oil change without an issue, and also have lower wear, for less money. Food for thought.
Will
11-13-2008, 03:23 PM
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Exactly, your TBN is only 2.5 after only 5800 miles. So how do you figure the additives in RP last a LOT longer than Amsoil, when there have been UOA's from DE engines with up to 12k miles on Amsoil ASL and the TBN is fine. Even the last UOA in this thread was from a 8k mile oil change using Castrol, and the TBN was better than this RP sample with only 5800 miles on it.
First, there is a fallacy in associating TBN with all oil additives, since base stocks play a role in this and not all the additives are there to neutralize acid. So I wouldn't make such a broad statement that any oil with a good TBN has additives that "last a LOT longer" than an oil with a lower TBN for the same mileage. Especially if we don't know what the TBN was to begin with.
Second, there is little correlation between TBN and wear protection. The higher the TBN, the more base left in the oil. It is a great indicator for whether the oil is suitable for extended drains, and that is about it. I would take a higher TBN over a lower one any day as long as the wear metals were low and the oil is still in grade. However, protection and shear stability trump TBN any day, even in terms of drain interval. There is no point in using an oil for an extended oil drain interval just because the TBN is still high, if the wear metals and viscosity are poor.
Your oil looks decent... but then we don't know what it is, do we? RP 5W-30, 10W-30..? Either way, it's barely a 30 weight any more, with a cSt of 9.4 (9.3 is the cut-off from a 30wt to a 20 wt.) Al is high. Check your air filter and intake. Hopefully it's form ingestion of AlSi and not piston wear. Still, this is one of the better looking RP UOA's we've seen. I also think the HR is just easier on the oil than the DE.
Whether or not the wear results and relatively low TBN are worth the money you dish out for RP- that's up to you. But before making a misguided claim about RP additives and Amsoil, consider the fact that most, if not all, of the 30 weight Amsoil UOA's look better for the same mileage than your RP sample. In fact, I bet PP 5W-30 or 10W-30 would handle a 5800 mile oil change without an issue, and also have lower wear, for less money. Food for thought.
Will
First, there is a fallacy in associating TBN with all oil additives, since base stocks play a role in this and not all the additives are there to neutralize acid. So I wouldn't make such a broad statement that any oil with a good TBN has additives that "last a LOT longer" than an oil with a lower TBN for the same mileage. Especially if we don't know what the TBN was to begin with.
Second, there is little correlation between TBN and wear protection. The higher the TBN, the more base left in the oil. It is a great indicator for whether the oil is suitable for extended drains, and that is about it. I would take a higher TBN over a lower one any day as long as the wear metals were low and the oil is still in grade. However, protection and shear stability trump TBN any day, even in terms of drain interval. There is no point in using an oil for an extended oil drain interval just because the TBN is still high, if the wear metals and viscosity are poor.
Your oil looks decent... but then we don't know what it is, do we? RP 5W-30, 10W-30..? Either way, it's barely a 30 weight any more, with a cSt of 9.4 (9.3 is the cut-off from a 30wt to a 20 wt.) Al is high. Check your air filter and intake. Hopefully it's form ingestion of AlSi and not piston wear. Still, this is one of the better looking RP UOA's we've seen. I also think the HR is just easier on the oil than the DE.
Whether or not the wear results and relatively low TBN are worth the money you dish out for RP- that's up to you. But before making a misguided claim about RP additives and Amsoil, consider the fact that most, if not all, of the 30 weight Amsoil UOA's look better for the same mileage than your RP sample. In fact, I bet PP 5W-30 or 10W-30 would handle a 5800 mile oil change without an issue, and also have lower wear, for less money. Food for thought.
Will
My air filters were dirty, changed them with the oil change.
Last edited by Peak350; 11-13-2008 at 03:34 PM.
11-13-2008, 08:19 PM
#174
I should have payed closer attention to your report and looked at the other elements. The Moly and Magnasium in your sample wasn't nearly high enough for RP 5W-30, the ZDDP was a little lower, and the Boron and Calcium in yours were much higher than RP.
There are 5 samples of Amsoil ASL (current formula) collected from the DE engine. Average mileage is 5800 and average TBN from those samples, at that mileage, is 7.2. Your Al and Fe wear metals are higher than the average for that blend in the DE, and your viscosity is lower. If this sample was ASL, then your report is rather odd since the HR is typically easier on oil than the DE engine, when comparing the same brands and weight. Even more odd that your TBN is so much lower than the DE average with ASL.
Hopefully, your new air filters will lower the Si and Al. However, the TBN is still low for a premium oil like ASL, if that's what you're using. I still think you could find better results than what you have here for less money. Although this did just go from being one of the best RP UOA's to one of the poorer Amsoil UOAs, which begs a few questions- Do you track the car, % mileage racked up on the highway vs stop-go, and what's the climate like where you live?
Will
11-13-2008, 08:41 PM
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That had probably 20 passes on the oil at the drag strip, 2,000 of it highway, the rest pretty intense city. Its FL and just got out of the heat so the oil was in for the hot and humid summertime.
It is the ASL, that said, the filters were dirty, the car had been run pretty hard on this change, and it was a pretty hot summer with a fair amount of bad city driving in the first 1,000 miles.
Out of curiosity, is there a particular oil you like? I'd probably switch to the German Castrol if I was to switch, but its been a while since I dug through too much.
It is the ASL, that said, the filters were dirty, the car had been run pretty hard on this change, and it was a pretty hot summer with a fair amount of bad city driving in the first 1,000 miles.
Out of curiosity, is there a particular oil you like? I'd probably switch to the German Castrol if I was to switch, but its been a while since I dug through too much.
11-13-2008, 08:54 PM
#176
Well, it sounds like you put the oil through its paces.
Back when I recommended oils in the analysis sticky, I had ASL on my list of oils not to bother with. Not that ASL is a bad oil, but much like M1 5W-30, it just wasn't the best of what the company had to offer. For the same price, there were better options from the company. If you like Amsoil, I would give their 10W-30 a shot instead.
Otherwise, seeing as to how your car is not getting the pampered treatment, Rotella 5W-40 has excellent results for a low price. GC is very good oil with excellent results in the VQ, and you won't go wrong with it. Both are less expensive than the ASL.
As far as what I like; right now I'm giving PP 5W-30 a try, because no one else has. Then I'll try something else new. Maybe Valvoline 5W-40. Either way, I just pick an oil that I'm interested in and no one has a UOA of yet.
Will
Back when I recommended oils in the analysis sticky, I had ASL on my list of oils not to bother with. Not that ASL is a bad oil, but much like M1 5W-30, it just wasn't the best of what the company had to offer. For the same price, there were better options from the company. If you like Amsoil, I would give their 10W-30 a shot instead.
Otherwise, seeing as to how your car is not getting the pampered treatment, Rotella 5W-40 has excellent results for a low price. GC is very good oil with excellent results in the VQ, and you won't go wrong with it. Both are less expensive than the ASL.
As far as what I like; right now I'm giving PP 5W-30 a try, because no one else has. Then I'll try something else new. Maybe Valvoline 5W-40. Either way, I just pick an oil that I'm interested in and no one has a UOA of yet.
Will
11-13-2008, 09:06 PM
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Well, it sounds like you put the oil through its paces.
Back when I recommended oils in the analysis sticky, I had ASL on my list of oils not to bother with. Not that ASL is a bad oil, but much like M1 5W-30, it just wasn't the best of what the company had to offer. For the same price, there were better options from the company. If you like Amsoil, I would give their 10W-30 a shot instead.
Otherwise, seeing as to how your car is not getting the pampered treatment, Rotella 5W-40 has excellent results for a low price. GC is very good oil with excellent results in the VQ, and you won't go wrong with it. Both are less expensive than the ASL.
As far as what I like; right now I'm giving PP 5W-30 a try, because no one else has. Then I'll try something else new. Maybe Valvoline 5W-40. Either way, I just pick an oil that I'm interested in and no one has a UOA of yet.
Will
Back when I recommended oils in the analysis sticky, I had ASL on my list of oils not to bother with. Not that ASL is a bad oil, but much like M1 5W-30, it just wasn't the best of what the company had to offer. For the same price, there were better options from the company. If you like Amsoil, I would give their 10W-30 a shot instead.
Otherwise, seeing as to how your car is not getting the pampered treatment, Rotella 5W-40 has excellent results for a low price. GC is very good oil with excellent results in the VQ, and you won't go wrong with it. Both are less expensive than the ASL.
As far as what I like; right now I'm giving PP 5W-30 a try, because no one else has. Then I'll try something else new. Maybe Valvoline 5W-40. Either way, I just pick an oil that I'm interested in and no one has a UOA of yet.
Will
I'll probably switch to the GC just because I've seen nothing bad about it, ever. Any favorite oil filter, with BMW's the quality difference was obvious because the elements were open so I always got Mann filters, is OE the best we can get?
11-13-2008, 09:40 PM
#178
As I'm curious for the differences (not a chemical engineer by a long shot) between the 10w30 and 5w30 blends, is it more significant than just a weight?
I'll probably switch to the GC just because I've seen nothing bad about it, ever. Any favorite oil filter, with BMW's the quality difference was obvious because the elements were open so I always got Mann filters, is OE the best we can get?
I'll probably switch to the GC just because I've seen nothing bad about it, ever. Any favorite oil filter, with BMW's the quality difference was obvious because the elements were open so I always got Mann filters, is OE the best we can get?
I like the NAPA Gold filters made by Wix, Champion lab's M1 and K&N filters, and the only filter to have shown the capacity for capturing some of the 10 micron or smaller particles measured in a UOA- the Donaldson-made EaO filter. I've never used the EaO, however. Like everything Amsoil, I've never bothered with drain intervals long enough to justify the cost.
Will