We are comparing 10mm (a fraction of an inch). Is the difference that significant?

 

It's almost half an inch. Considering the tires are also tied in relation to the aesthetics and overall appearance of a lowered car, 10mm can make a huge difference. Some people will notice, some will not, most people on the road won't care but for those owners who pay attention to detail, it does.

 

255/40 and 275/40 would be a perfect combo, a slightly shorter tire that would handle better would be a 265/35 and 285/35 combo. Either combo I mention will work perfect with your cars electronics. The first combo is well matched to factory tire height, the second set is slightly shorter than OEM.

10 +15 in the rear will probably require a slight roll.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/61208532@N05/5636241480/http://www.flickr.com/photos/61208532@N05/5636241480/]IMAG0007[/url, on Flickr

this is the 255/40 and 275/40 combo on a 9.5 and 10.5 wheel combo.


What a 285/35 looks like mounted front and rear. If I ran a 265/35 front tire it would be almost an inch shorter.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/61208532@N05/8897229338/[uron Flickr

 

That's all I was saying. I'd take the 285/35 over the 275/40.

My problem is I couldn't find a good front tire to match my 285/35 rear.. so I decided on trying to squeeze 295/35 rear and 275/35 front on a 9.5/10.5 +11 offsets

 

Not gonna lie my mind is being blown right now lol. Ok so I can go ahead and expect to roll the rears but will the 265/35 on the 10"+15 wheel fit up front without any issues besides the fenders needing rolling? If so I may end up getting the 265/35 and 285/35 combo and calling it a day. Final answer.

 

man my mind is blown off of all the research i did on tires right now and need a little help understanding a few things. From what i've read, basically we need to keep the diameter variance at 3% to avoid ECU problems. Great. With the help of the 1010tires.com tire calculator, i've narrowed down my choices considerably, but I'm confused on if that is an overall 3% for the car or just 3% for each wheel? i've seen a lot of guys that are running different sidewalls i.e. 255-40-18/285-35-18 so i'm not sure how that works...running the calculations i've gotten failing results using that tire combo for that front/rear setup. I may also be looking at this wrong so please let me know if i am, but my choices are this...oh and btw i am getting my results by adding the diameter variances together..but here it is:

295-35-18 R -2.07% slow
295-35-18 F .61% fast total -1.46%

275-40-18 F 2.65% fast
295-35-18 R -2.07% slow total .58%

255-40-18 F .23% fast
285-40-18 R 1.11% fast total 1.34%

Ideally, I would like to run 35's all around, but i've been at this for a while and I'm brains fried...also, when running different sized tread walls..does it matter which side is higher? i.e. fronts 35 rears 40 or vice versa...yeah i know lots of questions squeezed in here, but any info would greatly help!! also when some writes: 255-40-18 +15....whats the +15?? offset? how do get offset by adding spacers or some other way?

 

When I said +15 I was just referring to the offset of the wheels I purchased. Sorry to cause any confusion

 

About wheel size…

• If I wanted a great look (appearance), I would mount 19” wheels.
  
• If I wanted great performance, I would mount 17” wheels (and appropriate tires).
  
• If I wanted a compromise for appearance and performance, I would mount 18” wheels.
  
• If I wanted an extreme that was only that, I would mount 20” wheels.

--Spike

 

With a 265/35-18 mounted on a 10.5 +15 up front you may need to add a slight bit of front camber to clear. That pic of my car is actually a 285/35-18 front tire, I have to run -3.2 camber at my ride height to clear, no big deal, that is a proper race setting.

Remember, ride height effects the amount of clearance.

 

You seem to be making it a lot harder than it actually is. If you want to run 35 series all around.

265/35 front and 285/35 rear.
265/35 front and 295/35 rear
275/35 front and 295/35 rear

These combo's all work well.

You could even run other conbo's like 215/35 front and 235/35 rear, your speedo will be off a lot, the car will look stupid , but that gives you a proper ratio to keep electronics happy.

 

do all 18 inch wheels fit the stock tires of the Z? im confused since come wheels say 18x8.75 and others 18x9.
what does that 18x8.75 vs 18x9 mean? and will it fit any tire made for 18s?

 

thanks a lot...i knew it would be simple as that, but since i was doing multiple car part researches at once, my mind exploded when it came to choosing tires.

 

You can't be serious right now

 

The answer is no and no. The x9 and x8.75 is the width of the wheel in inches therefore you need a tire with an appropriate width for whatever wheel you have.

 

My one of a kind BBS RS. I'm finally done after 5 months of waiting and building. Hopefully tires will be in this week.

 

I like your commitment to being different but I really think these are step backwards for you.

 

Can't wait to see how they look on the car overall. May need to go full polish. Just couldn't wait to put them together any longer.

Custom step lipped to 18", shaved backs, custom neochrome hardware. Definitely an experience to build and haven't seen any other modern VQ with them.

I miss the Gram Lights every day, but needed something more functional. Done with the hellaflushslammed thing.

 

What are those centers off of? They look like 15" centers.

 

Actually 13" centers slanted and stepped all the way to 18".

The original rims were a rare set only found in Japan and never fitted to any particular model car. Originally I thought the fronts were off an old 300zx, but further investigation revealed the set was one of those never mated to any specific oem.

 

The front isn't flat back like the rear, which is a bummer. But the rear waffle cap won't fit with the extended lugs.



With this particular model in the rear I was able to achieve that lip with just a +11 offset (calculated to the best of my ability).