I've wanted to run that same setup since I read the article about the car, but I have some questions.

First, they run 18x10 all around with a 25mm offset in FRONT and a 35mm offset in the REAR. 265/35/18 tires all around. From the calculations I've done, those offsets keep the inside TRACK WIDTH the same as stock in front and rear. There MUST be a reason why they did it this way. Anybody have the technical knowledge and the ability to verbalize this? All I know is that widening the track in the rear should theoretically give it more grip, so if they went with a 25mm or 15mm offset in the rear it should theoretically increase understeer. Who knows if it's really noticable to anybody but professional race car drivers.

Second, will a 275/35/18 fit in the FRONT on an 18x10 +25mm offset wheel WITHOUT running excessive negative camber? I'd like to stay at -2 degrees in the front for street driving.

Thanks for the input.

 

No need for a staggered setup with AWD.

 

So for a RWD car would it be a good idea to widen the rear track so I can power out of the turns better? I'm more concerned with performance than being perfectly flush with the fenders, so if there is a real reason to have these offsets I want to know.

Also, I don't plan on turbo'ing my car for a very long time so I want to keep the car more balanced by keeping the same width tire front and rear. So far it helps a LOT.

 

18*10+25 and 275/35/18 should fit in the front.
I'm running 18*9.5+30 275/35/18, but I still have room to the fender.

 

According to the calculator, the 18x10 +25 would have 1mm LESS clearance on the inside and EXTEND an extra 11mm on the outside. Do you think that will clear?

Thanks for the help.

 

I'll go take a look to make sure. I believe it should, especially if you are running some neg. camber. I'm stock height and camber right now..

 

Thanks, that would be a perfect car to check these clearances on since it's at stock camber.

 

Not necessarily. I've read that if your AWD has a rear drive bias, staggered tires may still be beneficial.

 

You are correct, such is the case with the Porsche 911 Turbo.

This car was built AFAIK off of an R34 driveline that doesn't utilize ATTESA but I may be wrong.

 

LOL I don't think the Z ever has to worry about rear bias.

 

Actually, they used the R32 AWD system because it has less electronics to mess with. It is ATTESA also, if you've ever seen "Drift Bible" check the guage cluster on the in-car view. I think that's where I saw that anyway.

 

This looks like a competition set-up for open road or autocross. Way too much potential for oversteer for me.

 

Would this compromise on road safety? I wasnt sure if i was going to run a staggered setup when i was deciding on wheel and tire options.

 

I've been running equal sized tires front and rear for almost 1 year now and love it. It's very neutral and controlable. I don't have an LSD yet, so that may affect the outcome, but lots of track drivers have same sized tires all around.

 

18x10 +25 has 1 mm LESS inner (to the strut) clearance than your set, and sits 11mm further out - that's not a small amount.

The reason they have the offsets they do? Who knows - the car is AWD, and and is not even owned by JUN, its a customer car. It could be a handling thing, it could be a legality thing (for the series it is intended to compete in) - could be a variety of reasons to be honest. I can try to ask them, I wouldn't count on them answering me to any great detail though.

Lots of guys prefer the same size, lots of guys prefer a staggered set. There is no right and wrong, there is just different. It comes down to how the rest of the car is setup, from spring rates, to swaybar rates, to alignment specs, to driver style. I've tried both, and I personally don't like how the car feels wtih the same size all around, no matter how much I played with it. But again, its largely a personal preferce thing, as there are SO many variables that can totally change things exclusive of tire size itself.

I honestly wouldnt worry about duplicating the setup to a "t" unless you're planning to go to the same extent of modification with yours. The best way to determine your tire sizes, and successes/failures with suspension setup is to take the car to the same track consistently. Play with the non parts first (camber, tire pressure, toe), and take copious notes. From there, you can begin altering damper settings, swaybar settings, ride heights, etc. It's alot of trial and error and time consuming, but the net result will be a car that does what you want it to do, not a car that does what someone else wanted it to do.

 

Very well put. I guess I'll go with the same offset all around so I can at least rotate them.

Time to get an annual pass to VIR.