phandango

iTrader: (2)

I got a noob question...

I'm swapping out my LM's for some stock OEMs and was wondering if I needed to balance my wheels and align my car.

I had the car aligned about 3 months ago... does it need to be done after every wheel swap?

davidv

iTrader: (2)

What is a LM ?

zerostyle

iTrader: (11)

stock and oem are the same thing lol...

Spike100

Since so many tire-selections are very expensive for the Z, I do frequent alignments. I always do an alignment when swapping tire/wheel setups.

I don’t bother with balancing unless I mount different tires.

--Spike

DanDaMan89

Swaping rims shouldn't affect the alignment if there the same size

Spike100

^^ That’s correct as long as the new tire/wheel setup goes on perfectly and identically to what you already have. But, that may not be the case every time. If there is even a slight deviation, the wear pattern could be significant.

To protect your investment (Z tires are $$), do a new alignment (or at least a check on the existing alignment).

--Spike

crg914

iTrader: (5)

Don't be so dramatic. The differences between swapping tires is not going to be enough to warrant another alignment. You know there is a range on what's "in spec" right? That range is designed to allow for variations in wheels, tires, wear from suspension parts, etc. Tires may be expensive, but alignments aren't cheap either.

OP, unless your changing wheels and tires sizes drastically you alignment from 3 months ago will be fine. No need to waste money on another one.

Spike100

^^ I'm a little obsessive when it comes to alignments... but I started out in 2003 when there were all those alignment asnd tire feathering issues.

--Spike

GHOST1207

iTrader: (23)

I'm guessing he's talking about the Nismo LMGT4s.

kham25

iTrader: (3)

I had the OEM 18 inch wheels and switched over to Nismo 18/19 for about two years now. I did not go for an alignment.. Tires are upsized as well 255/285..
The car never pulled to either side off the road and was dead on as with stock wheels. Tire wear has been fine as well no complaints there. To me if it pulls only then i would do an alignment.

davidv

iTrader: (2)

Always happy to help. If you have other questions please do not hesitate to waste my time.

stradaONE8

iTrader: (2)

You whine a lot...

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

I agree with spike.....

In my honest opinion every Z owner should have either the NTB 5 year alignment deal or the Firestone lifetime unlimited alignment added to their car from day one (I choose NTB because their newer facilities have "in ground" alignment racks).

-(Nissan's in general) -
350Z is very picking in "toe" over many other vehicles i have seen..........usually there is a .5 to 1 degree range but with the 350z there is .08F to .07R toe variation change. (green zone)

It's quite easy for you to go "out of range" when peeps start buying LM/volks/works, etc in up sized wheels/tires and then "go back to OEM" some time down the road.

and not only for that reason, but the Z is also very **** to:

2. bushings - Z has crappy bushings.......Every Z i have seen has bushings that have worn, torn or straight up moved and deformed to a "non centered" location in its mount (rear shock to knuckle location, etc).

3. Front unibody does tweak - I have yet to see a 350Z with caster thats in range, close on each side or anywhere near the oem 8.17 degrees it should be....... and a .75 difference is huge!!!! IMHO A difference in caster of .5 is noticeable!! slight drift/pull to one side while cruis'n on the hwy, etc..

SEE HERE - notice the small difference in TOE....if your in spec with one wheel size, then swap to another, its easy to fall out of range:
FRONT:


REAR:


In the end, its up to you, but an alignment special is worth it if you plan on swapping wheels often............most alignment specials pay for themselves in two visits...

-J

stradaONE8

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the extensive write up Jason. I was confused myself as to how often it was needed. I think I might wait to do my new suspension before I get another alignment. Given the large similarities between Gs and Zs, do you think the same issues pertain across the two cars?

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

Honestly I would bet my money YES - as its "narrow" variations on even my Xterra and other Nissan's I have been around, and given how the G configuration for lower control arms and such are nearly identical.......

Couldn't know for sure until i saw alignment specs for them but i would be they are very close.

-J

stradaONE8

iTrader: (2)

I would bet yes too.

I try to keep my wheel size/tire specs as close to OEM sizes as possible; my speedo is off <1% with my Volks on compared to OEM. I hope that helps while it sits like a 4x4 and I switch between my winter and summer setups. I know when I lower it the camber will go up, though I'm not sure about toe. I will definitely try to get final settings as close to OEM spec as possible.

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

Toe will quickly fall out of spec when you lower the car, remember above, the range is only .08F and .07R.....so when lowering its quick for it to fall out of toe....

Front:
No matter what, toe is adjustable up front via the tie rods.

Your front camber will just go to a more negative number ~ 1.25 inch drop = about -1.8 camber (max neg spec is -1.33). To correct front camber - you need upper control arms.

Rear:
you can adjust rear via the eccentric washer at the spring bucket - oem wont let you adjust any further than about a .75 inch drop. BUT if you get the SPC toe bolt or equivalent aftermarket toe bolt you can adjust toe more as these toe bolts give you up to 3 more degrees of adjustability.

Toe bolts sold here:
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...alignment.html

Rear camber:
You need a rear camber arm.

-J

stradaONE8

iTrader: (2)

I was thinking either SPL or SPC front control arms/rear camber arms + toe bolts. The SPLs look so beefy and good, and if later this car becomes more track worthy, I'd be happier with a more solid product I feel.

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

Between those two - hands down SPL. Why? because camber and caster are adjustable "separate" from one another.

SPC uses an eccentric ball joint...ya, thats no fun.

Plus if you are into track...read my reasons why SPL is great here - POST 3 (2nd pic - quick at track adjust ability):
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...hims-made.html


ANOTHER OPTION:
Being that you want to track the car, i would say SPL........but if you really don't need caster adjust ability these are nice as well - which also allow at track adjust ability:

Sold here: http://www.importpartspro.com/kifradcoar03.html
used set for sale now here - https://my350z.com/forum/suspension/...nt-a-arms.html

I must also mention that those kinetics front upper control arms - while a great price do have one main downside....but its also a plus side (read on)

In order to adjust camber, you have to remove the nut front the front spindle and turn the rod end.......i would hope that they would come with instructions to explain what each 360 degree turn would result to in camber increase and decrease, but regardless........you may run into additional charges getting the alignment due to the alignment tech having to:

remove alignment sensors from wheels
jack the car up
remove wheels - 'may not need to'
disconnect nut and spin rod end in or out accordingly
reattach nut/torque to spec
reinstall wheels - 'may not need to'
lower car back on alignment rack
reinstall alignment sensors on wheels
re-shoot alignment and - IF not within spec - do it again! until you get it right.

UNLESS its an alignment machine that can "shoot" the specs with the front in the air, some shops have machines that can do this...that makes it much easier, where they can lift the car up and shoot its specs in the air and adjustment is easy for alignment techs.


POSITIVE THOUGH: PLEASE READ ON!
1. Once set, there is no way for it to move! by design...no slip, no nothing! ITS BOLTED INTO POSITION...CANT TURN WITH OUT YOU REMOVING AND TURNING IT.

2. AND!!! the bread winner of that design is this! while at the alignment shop you can have them turn it and get you a within oem spec alignment (NOTE DOWN THAT LOCATION BY MEASURING AND COUNTING REVOLUTIONS TO THAT POINT!

then count the number of turns to a lower more negative alignment for your track/racing set up. MEASURE AS WELL AS COUNT TURNS TOO....

once you know the number of turns/measurement from the base...you can do camber changes yourself at the track!!!! AND BE SURE YOUR WHERE YOU WANT TO BE!

WIN FEATURE with that design....

so in essence, the only fault is costly alignment....."if" your alignment shop does in fact charge you more for the added work.....get it?

plus, im sure they are stiffer than oem - made with SS...

so to me I like them for that...great set for the weekend warrior autoX'r...etc....THAT DOESNT CARE TO MESS WITH CASTER......AS CASTER IS NOT ADJUSTABLE ON THIS UNIT....

and of course there are others out there.......just research on..
-J

brandon3434

iTrader: (9)

My guess would differ... BBS LM's