What gear when stopped?
I don't think it is harmful but I always go to neutral. Reason is it eliminates any chance of my foot skipping off the clutch & launching the car into traffic. Also i just find it more comfortable.
You don't want to ride your clutch any more than necessary. Excessive clutch-riding could cause undue wear to the throw-out bearing. When stopped at a light, you should put the stick in neutral and get off the clutch. If you're just doing a momentary stop at a stop sign, you should be okay to just clutch-in as you stop and then shift to first and go. However, I generally shift into neutral and get off of the clutch pedal at a stop sign by reflex.
Gary
Gary
if the clutch is in all the way, or well past the engagment point, then your not wearing out the clutch.
the most your doing is compressing the spring in the clutch. I would imagine youll replace the clutch, and probably the car, long before that becomes a problem. just using a spring rather than letting it return to its natural position, not wearing out the clutch pad or anything.
the most your doing is compressing the spring in the clutch. I would imagine youll replace the clutch, and probably the car, long before that becomes a problem. just using a spring rather than letting it return to its natural position, not wearing out the clutch pad or anything.
Originally posted by ares
if the clutch is in all the way, or well past the engagment point, then your not wearing out the clutch.
the most your doing is compressing the spring in the clutch. I would imagine youll replace the clutch, and probably the car, long before that becomes a problem. just using a spring rather than letting it return to its natural position, not wearing out the clutch pad or anything.
if the clutch is in all the way, or well past the engagment point, then your not wearing out the clutch.
the most your doing is compressing the spring in the clutch. I would imagine youll replace the clutch, and probably the car, long before that becomes a problem. just using a spring rather than letting it return to its natural position, not wearing out the clutch pad or anything.
This is an issue for motorcycles, since you must always keep your bike in 1st gear, coming to a stop, clutch engaged ready to make a speedy exit. (at least those who have proper training do, in the event the car behind you does not stop).
Back to the Z- It takes a very long while for this type of damage to show its face. It is very, very minimal, and my opinion is that in the long run you will not notice any shortness of life.
However you never know, so its up to you.
I always keep it in 1st gear, clutch engaged till the car behind comes to a complete stop.
Never know,
Eric
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Yes, but with a $750 clutch... Do you really want to take the chance? Good Luck if you do. 
Just to let you know, I've gone over 200,000 miles on one clutch in my '75 Z. That was from NOT riding the clutch.
Zchick

Just to let you know, I've gone over 200,000 miles on one clutch in my '75 Z. That was from NOT riding the clutch.
Zchick
Who cares about the stupid clutch? If I didn't have the car in gear, ready to rock about 3 weeks ago, I would have gotten nailed from behind from some stupid b**ch in her SUV not paying attention. It's always better to be ready to act.
Originally posted by ares
if its depressed past engagment its not being "ridden" there is no wear on the clutch pads at all, meaning no risk. so all thats at risk is a 30$ throw out bearing. Ill take it.
if its depressed past engagment its not being "ridden" there is no wear on the clutch pads at all, meaning no risk. so all thats at risk is a 30$ throw out bearing. Ill take it.
Your spring/throwout bearing only has so much life in it. So lets say you hold it at a light for 30 seconds. And lets assume it takes you 1 sec to shift. You've just taken 30 shifts out of your transmission (bearing/spring).
Unless you can get in your transmission and replace the parts yourself, it's more than $30. Think about when you go to get your clutch replaced. How much does that cost you and how much of it is labor costs.
Originally posted by exzeltus
I understand the "always in gear" for emergencies. So keep it in gear until the person behinds you comes to a stop.
Your spring/throwout bearing only has so much life in it. So lets say you hold it at a light for 30 seconds. And lets assume it takes you 1 sec to shift. You've just taken 30 shifts out of your transmission (bearing/spring).
Unless you can get in your transmission and replace the parts yourself, it's more than $30. Think about when you go to get your clutch replaced. How much does that cost you and how much of it is labor costs.
I understand the "always in gear" for emergencies. So keep it in gear until the person behinds you comes to a stop.
Your spring/throwout bearing only has so much life in it. So lets say you hold it at a light for 30 seconds. And lets assume it takes you 1 sec to shift. You've just taken 30 shifts out of your transmission (bearing/spring).
Unless you can get in your transmission and replace the parts yourself, it's more than $30. Think about when you go to get your clutch replaced. How much does that cost you and how much of it is labor costs.
I have never heard of anyone wearing out the fingers on their pressure plate. That is the "spring" everyone is referring to. The clutch disk will certainly be worn out first, unless you smoke it and glaze everything.
It doesn't matter how you do it, just don't ride the clutch, meaning don't sit in gear with the clutch only partially engaged.
-TB
The focus should not be whether it the clutch, throw bearing or pressure plate but how much will it cost to replace these things.
Unless you guys are doing the work, most shops will charge the same for labor to get into the clutch area. The cost of "removing the engine" any where between 3 to 6 shop hours to get into this area. Since they have to do this no matter whether it is the throwout bearing or the clutch disc or pressure plate that needs to be replaced. Most shops will recommend replacing all three if one of them is worn. Generally the price for "clutch replacement" should include these three pieces plus the "pilot bearing".
The pilot bearing sit inside the crank supporting the transmission shaft, the shaft is surruonded by the clutch plate and the pressure plate that also bolts to the flywheel and finally the throwout bearing. To remove any of these you have to remove the transmission (or engine) enough to allow these parts to be replaced. Hence the basic 3 to 6 hours shop time depending on car.
My 2cts is to be binary on the clutch....either engage it fully or NOT.
Back to the stoplight.....again if you prefer to have the car in gear then fully engage clutch..... or NOT... requires you to put car in neutral.
Unless you guys are doing the work, most shops will charge the same for labor to get into the clutch area. The cost of "removing the engine" any where between 3 to 6 shop hours to get into this area. Since they have to do this no matter whether it is the throwout bearing or the clutch disc or pressure plate that needs to be replaced. Most shops will recommend replacing all three if one of them is worn. Generally the price for "clutch replacement" should include these three pieces plus the "pilot bearing".
The pilot bearing sit inside the crank supporting the transmission shaft, the shaft is surruonded by the clutch plate and the pressure plate that also bolts to the flywheel and finally the throwout bearing. To remove any of these you have to remove the transmission (or engine) enough to allow these parts to be replaced. Hence the basic 3 to 6 hours shop time depending on car.
My 2cts is to be binary on the clutch....either engage it fully or NOT.
Back to the stoplight.....again if you prefer to have the car in gear then fully engage clutch..... or NOT... requires you to put car in neutral.
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