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Jumped the car again. Anybody else have problem with a dead battery if not driven daily? I drive it only on weekends and it is dead if not started every other day. Battery is new and fine, alternator is good also
Jumped the car again. Anybody else have problem with a dead battery if not driven daily? I drive it only on weekends and it is dead if not started every other day. Battery is new and fine, alternator is good also
What brand battery do you have? Some batteries hold up better then others as far as sitting idle for a week or so. Decca ( I believe thats the name) dont hold up well unless they are used daily. These are what they sell at car quest, napa, and a whole bunch of other places. They use distinct font on all their labels. From my understanding Theirs only a handful of manufacturers of car batteries in the U.S. They distribute their products to a bunch of different places that slap their brand name on them.
Johnson controls the manufacturer who makes Wal-Mart batteries usually hold up good. (I dont shop at Wal-Mart but I cant say anything bad about their batteries) Interstate batteries are also usually good at keeping their charge when not daily driven. Wholesale clubs around here sell interstate batteries as well as most shops. The only thing to look out for is how long they have been sitting on the shelf. A5 would be manufactured in January. Of 2015 and so on. Being a 35 battery that is used on most import cars its not a big concern.
Autozone and advanced gold series batteries also tend to hold up well. Diehards im not sure havent dealt with too many.
Anyways I would suggest you pull out your battery and charge it fully on a charger and see if it still acts up. If its needed a jump 2 times already I wouldn't keep straining your alternator everytime you drive your car. It's got a lot to keep going in the z and im sure it's not happy about charging an unreliable battery at the same time. Their are small things that keep running when your car is off but it shouldn't kill the battery in a week. If you have a multi meter with an amp clamp you can try to check for a drain.
Good luck gotta eat lunch now
Jumped the car again. Anybody else have problem with a dead battery if not driven daily? I drive it only on weekends and it is dead if not started every other day. Battery is new and fine, alternator is good also
If your battery won't hold a charge overnight then it is either weak or you have a draw on the system.
If this just started happening then consider if you've had anything electrical installed. If you haven't had anything installed or changed when you probably need battery. Autozone testers are not super accurate.
Jumped the car again. Anybody else have problem with a dead battery if not driven daily? I drive it only on weekends and it is dead if not started every other day. Battery is new and fine, alternator is good also
I've sold Johnson Control batteries & East Penn (Deka) batteries and definitely prefer the Deka. I had one in my mothers old Buick for seven years (In Florida mind you) without a lick of trouble.
I've also moved a lot of batteries. The Deka batteries construction vs. most of the Johnson Control's is evident by weight. The same group 65 Deka Napa battery is substantially heavier than say, a Johnson Controls Advance Auto Parts equivalent. Thicker lead core walls, less prone to leaking, etc.
You should perform a parasitic drain test on your battery. All you need is a multi-meter (and preferably a buddy to watch the screen while you pull fuses), you can Google how to do it, it's very simple. That way you can rule out a circuit drawing current while the car is off.
Also restored my headlights last night. They were long overdue. I usually use the 3M kit to wetsand and polish, but I decided they weren't that far gone to justify all of that.
I used some White Diamond Metal Polish & Sealant to remove the oxidization on the lamps and finished up with some Zymol wax to serve as a temporary protectant.
They came out nice for very little effort. Much better than Plast-X could ever do.
I've sold Johnson Control batteries & East Penn (Deka) batteries and definitely prefer the Deka. I had one in my mothers old Buick for seven years (In Florida mind you) without a lick of trouble.
I've also moved a lot of batteries. The Deka batteries construction vs. most of the Johnson Control's is evident by weight. The same group 65 Deka Napa battery is substantially heavier than say, a Johnson Controls Advance Auto Parts equivalent. Thicker lead core walls, less prone to leaking, etc.
You should perform a parasitic drain test on your battery. All you need is a multi-meter (and preferably a buddy to watch the screen while you pull fuses), you can Google how to do it, it's very simple. That way you can rule out a circuit drawing current while the car is off.
Ive seen many people have problems with the Deka batteries here in the north east. If they are daily driven they hold up fine but after sitting idle for a week they tend to not start the car. They will charge back up but I wouldn't recommend one for anything but a daily driver.
Ive seen many people have problems with the Deka batteries here in the north east. If they are daily driven they hold up fine but after sitting idle for a week they tend to not start the car. They will charge back up but I wouldn't recommend one for anything but a daily driver.
I believe that may be what you've noticed, but there are too many variables to determine the actual cause of a weak or dead battery on a vehicle that is sitting idle for a week.
Batteries are meant to be used. Anyone who leaves their vehicle unattended for a period of time without a battery tender on it is asking for trouble in the first place.
There is a reason why Deka batteries are the number one choice for industrial and agricultural applications, golf carts, etc.
I believe that may be what you've noticed, but there are too many variables to determine the actual cause of a weak or dead battery on a vehicle that is sitting idle for a week.
Batteries are meant to be used. Anyone who leaves their vehicle unattended for a period of time without a battery tender on it is asking for trouble in the first place.
There is a reason why Deka batteries are the number one choice for industrial and agricultural applications, golf carts, etc.
I wish I felt as strongly about the Deka batteries quality as you do. The company I work for sells them and I always had a hard time selling them to people that didnt use their cars daily because I knew they would have problems and be calling back for a warrantee. However if you daily drive them its not a problem. But if you go on vacation for 2 weeks and the car doesn't start when you get back because you don't have a trickle charger in airport parking it would kinda suck.
Thanks for all the help guys! I took the battery and they said it was good just needed to be charged up. It's the bottom line battery from Autozone (came in the Carl it's pretty new, not even a year old. It doesn't die over night but i didn't drive it since Monday, but when i tried to start it Friday it was dead.
if the problem continues I will be upgrading to the Duralast gold or their new Platinum series of batteries. The Platinum seem to be made of gel I think which might be worth the extra $50 upcharge! If not I'll end up with the Gold series if I don't feel like spending basically $200 on a new battery. I've never had a problem with autozone warranty on batteries or premature deaths. Only the gold or up though. The ones under (the one I have) are meh
and yes I sold batteries for a while too and Johnson Control makes the majority of batteries
This doesn't even qualify. But pic of amber led's blinking. Glam shots ltr. DRL is visible, but off.
Actually, if I had it to do over, Diode Dynamics has 6" led strip that is DRL (white) until you put on blinker. Then it blinks amber.
It had a sub and amp but I tore it out fist day. The power and ground wires are still where there but all taped off so in theory they should be doing anything. Also I left the old remote wire for future use but being hooked up to 12V not constant it shouldn't do anything
Not sure, it was actually already like that when I bought it. I notice the stock ones are orange, probably the last owner replaced stock one with an aftermarket dash. Also they added the touch screen thingie too. The last owner really hooked it up.
Also restored my headlights last night. They were long overdue. I usually use the 3M kit to wetsand and polish, but I decided they weren't that far gone to justify all of that.
I used some White Diamond Metal Polish & Sealant to remove the oxidization on the lamps and finished up with some Zymol wax to serve as a temporary protectant.
They came out nice for very little effort. Much better than Plast-X could ever do.
My goodness I need something like this. I have the right light fogging up more and kind of yellowish than the left light. It looks like she has an eye booger or something lol.
My goodness I need something like this. I have the right light fogging up more and kind of yellowish than the left light. It looks like she has an eye booger or something lol.
Go into your bathroom, take out your toothpaste, wet a rag and put the toothpaste on the rag, go to your car, rub the living daylights out of your light, reapply a few times, then top coat it with something. Done!
Go into your bathroom, take out your toothpaste, wet a rag and put the toothpaste on the rag, go to your car, rub the living daylights out of your light, reapply a few times, then top coat it with something. Done!
There are lots of remedies for hazing lights!
I have heard but not tried 50/50 Marine Spar varnish and mineral spirits. Need to try this on the wife's mdx.