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arp wheel studs in rear possible??/

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Old 02-20-2013, 04:19 PM
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Daytondakid13
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Default arp wheel studs in rear possible??/

i just bought 10 new arp extended studs for my rear wheels. i did the fronts already but the rear doesn't have the cheater hole that the front did... so my question is, is it possible to install the arp extended studs without removing the rear hub??? if so please help and explain!!
Old 02-20-2013, 04:34 PM
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terrasmak
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cheater hole is where the ebrake cable comes thru
Old 02-20-2013, 04:40 PM
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Daytondakid13
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so pull out the cable ?
Old 02-20-2013, 04:54 PM
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terrasmak
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Originally Posted by Daytondakid13
so pull out the cable ?
The stud can't be fed thru the hole if there is a cable there.
Old 02-20-2013, 04:58 PM
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well no ****... but there nothing else i have to do... just the cable
Old 02-20-2013, 06:58 PM
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freddys 350z
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spend an extra hour or two and remove the bearing, press out the old and press in the new. i did it recently and its no big deal.
Old 02-20-2013, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Daytondakid13
well no ****... but there nothing else i have to do... just the cable
You also need to remove the bracket that holds the cable. 3 bolts total once the ebrake shoes are removed.
Old 02-21-2013, 04:30 AM
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vtchang
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google is your best friend. "site:my350z.com arp studs rear"

https://my350z.com/forum/body-interi...stilation.html
Old 02-21-2013, 06:11 AM
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Robert_K
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Originally Posted by Daytondakid13
well no ****... but there nothing else i have to do... just the cable
If you know so well you shouldn't be asking the questions.
Old 02-21-2013, 05:49 PM
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ian99rt
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Originally Posted by terrasmak
You also need to remove the bracket that holds the cable. 3 bolts total once the ebrake shoes are removed.
This ^

I literally got in from the garage doing this to my Z 10 mins ago. I'm using the KD tools ball joint remover to pop out old studs and drive in new studs.

I've attempted it 3 times trying to use a large flanged M10 nut and washers to draw the ARP stud in but the nut's thread will deform and damage the stud before the stud is fully seated.

Only conclusion I came to is my 600 ft/lbs impact gun is hammering too hard/fast and the nut gives before the stud moves.
Old 02-21-2013, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by ian99rt
Only conclusion I came to is my 600 ft/lbs impact gun is hammering too hard/fast and the nut gives before the stud moves.
3 foot breaker bar and some smooth turning. Takes about a minute, simple and easy.

Also lube the threads since your putting stress on then as your draw the stud thru. Makes it much easier to turn.
Old 02-21-2013, 06:15 PM
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ian99rt
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Originally Posted by terrasmak
3 foot breaker bar and some smooth turning. Takes about a minute, simple and easy.

Also lube the threads since your putting stress on then as your draw the stud thru. Makes it much easier to turn.
Yeah I had anti-seize on there for lube, I'm done with 3/4 corners using the ball joint separator to seat the studs and works just fine.

I can use my impact on that with no issues
Old 02-21-2013, 08:23 PM
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freddys 350z
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thats why i prefer to remove the hubs and press them in. no damage done to the threads.
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