Ignition coils, plugs for a 2005 350z Roadster Touring Manual
12-15-2021, 04:59 PM
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
Ignition coils, plugs for a 2005 350z Roadster Touring Manual
Our son was recommended to replace his plugs and coils (they are original). I know the plugs are probably done if so, but not sure if all the coils need to be done. The mechanic told him they probably are not working right (I am sure there is some loss in the translation). How do I test on my own? I did pick up the Nissan Software and the proper OBD2 cable for it.
Working through getting his 350z dialed in (about 130k miles). The car is in good shape, has a couple touched up scratches on the paint but no real dents and dings. Aftermarket single exit exhaust that sounds good and not obnoxious. Replacement Kenwood headunit but only the rear speakers are connected. Top took some work and still dialing that in. Engine compression was good and transmission had a recent clutch (no idea what brand). Mismatched tires.
Had to put in a new Power steering pump, swapped out the pulley setup to the more modern one without the extra idler pulley (both pulleys were making noise). New belts. Brake flush. One of the under dash modules needed to be fixed. Thought it was BCM, but it was another one (his gauges weren't working right). I eventually want to dial in the suspension and get some decent matching tires under (he has the upgraded 18" wheels from the factory).
Don't want to blow money on things really not needed and don't want to buy parts that will need to be replaced soon. He is planning on keeping this car quite a few years.
Working through getting his 350z dialed in (about 130k miles). The car is in good shape, has a couple touched up scratches on the paint but no real dents and dings. Aftermarket single exit exhaust that sounds good and not obnoxious. Replacement Kenwood headunit but only the rear speakers are connected. Top took some work and still dialing that in. Engine compression was good and transmission had a recent clutch (no idea what brand). Mismatched tires.
Had to put in a new Power steering pump, swapped out the pulley setup to the more modern one without the extra idler pulley (both pulleys were making noise). New belts. Brake flush. One of the under dash modules needed to be fixed. Thought it was BCM, but it was another one (his gauges weren't working right). I eventually want to dial in the suspension and get some decent matching tires under (he has the upgraded 18" wheels from the factory).
Don't want to blow money on things really not needed and don't want to buy parts that will need to be replaced soon. He is planning on keeping this car quite a few years.
12-15-2021, 05:47 PM
#2
350Z/370Z Tech Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
Our son was recommended to replace his plugs and coils (they are original). I know the plugs are probably done if so, but not sure if all the coils need to be done. The mechanic told him they probably are not working right (I am sure there is some loss in the translation). How do I test on my own? I did pick up the Nissan Software and the proper OBD2 cable for it.
Working through getting his 350z dialed in (about 130k miles). The car is in good shape, has a couple touched up scratches on the paint but no real dents and dings. Aftermarket single exit exhaust that sounds good and not obnoxious. Replacement Kenwood headunit but only the rear speakers are connected. Top took some work and still dialing that in. Engine compression was good and transmission had a recent clutch (no idea what brand). Mismatched tires.
Had to put in a new Power steering pump, swapped out the pulley setup to the more modern one without the extra idler pulley (both pulleys were making noise). New belts. Brake flush. One of the under dash modules needed to be fixed. Thought it was BCM, but it was another one (his gauges weren't working right). I eventually want to dial in the suspension and get some decent matching tires under (he has the upgraded 18" wheels from the factory).
Don't want to blow money on things really not needed and don't want to buy parts that will need to be replaced soon. He is planning on keeping this car quite a few years.
Working through getting his 350z dialed in (about 130k miles). The car is in good shape, has a couple touched up scratches on the paint but no real dents and dings. Aftermarket single exit exhaust that sounds good and not obnoxious. Replacement Kenwood headunit but only the rear speakers are connected. Top took some work and still dialing that in. Engine compression was good and transmission had a recent clutch (no idea what brand). Mismatched tires.
Had to put in a new Power steering pump, swapped out the pulley setup to the more modern one without the extra idler pulley (both pulleys were making noise). New belts. Brake flush. One of the under dash modules needed to be fixed. Thought it was BCM, but it was another one (his gauges weren't working right). I eventually want to dial in the suspension and get some decent matching tires under (he has the upgraded 18" wheels from the factory).
Don't want to blow money on things really not needed and don't want to buy parts that will need to be replaced soon. He is planning on keeping this car quite a few years.
Ignition coils can be tested using a simple VOM (volt ohm meter) BUT this will not give you any idea of their longevity. If you have Consult 3, it can help to diagnose the DTCs but may not identify any pending doom bad components just as the case with VOM.
If this is something you want to do preemptively, do the entire set using genuine Nissan (PN 22433AL61C) or Hitachi equivalent (PN IGC0003 for HR or IGC0007 for DE) only. Pre-covid, I would have told you that you could buy a set of Nissan OEM for as little as $120 (I did in late 2019). but I don't see them that cheap any more. But this set at ConceptZ isn't horrendous at $189 for the set.
https://conceptzperformance.com/hita...07_p_60773.php
Or buy them as you need them - and you will - but I would (and did) replace them all with a fresh set, test the rest and keep the good ones as spares. Oh, and I did mine at only 78k miles after getting a P0300 then after a couple of days of intermittent misfires, a solid P0304 code (misfire cylinder 4); so, at 130k, you may (or may not) be living on borrowed coilpack time.
Sounds like you're working out the issues on the car, that's great. Will say this, the right set of tires will dynamically change the Z's character. Some cars, it hardly matters putting on mismatched tires but the Z loves good tires. If one cheaps out on tires, it's just sad to see that car's handling go to waste.
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alkemyst (12-15-2021)
12-15-2021, 06:07 PM
#3
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Thread Starter
Thanks. I don't have a whole lot of time to research since I have my own car build (came out after 1 year in shops and some asshat in a Prius decided to sideswipe me out of spite of whatever he was feeling then tried to flee. I got his tag and have dual car cameras.) and quit my old job due to too many hours so on that front now.
I have a 2016 Cadillac CTS V-Sport on E85 and pretty much the whole thing is dialed in now (except for the accident now).
I run 255/30R20 and 295/25R20 Michelin PS4s on my Cadillac so I know how tires matter.
What's the best bang for buck on this with the factory 18's? That part I really understand and if even as a stepping stone would like to source even some used good tires all matching. None of them are a decent tire other than having tread.
I have a 2016 Cadillac CTS V-Sport on E85 and pretty much the whole thing is dialed in now (except for the accident now).
I run 255/30R20 and 295/25R20 Michelin PS4s on my Cadillac so I know how tires matter.
What's the best bang for buck on this with the factory 18's? That part I really understand and if even as a stepping stone would like to source even some used good tires all matching. None of them are a decent tire other than having tread.
12-15-2021, 06:16 PM
#4
I have run Michelin ps3 on my on c6z and run ps4 on my current vette and love em. On my ats-v I ran continental extreme contacts.....hated them.
When I had my 350 I ran Hankook v12( wasn't a fan) and I can't remember the lat set I had on it to save my life right now.
Congrats on the cts-v, sucks about fender bender.
When I had my 350 I ran Hankook v12( wasn't a fan) and I can't remember the lat set I had on it to save my life right now.
Congrats on the cts-v, sucks about fender bender.
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alkemyst (12-15-2021)
12-15-2021, 06:52 PM
#5
350Z-holic
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Mic and I have differening views but I rarely see coil packs go out or fail - but anything is possible.
There is a test sequence in the Factory Service Manual that has how to test them.
Make sure you dont criss-cross plugs 4 and 6, they are very easily mixed-up, and illogically wired
There is a test sequence in the Factory Service Manual that has how to test them.
Make sure you dont criss-cross plugs 4 and 6, they are very easily mixed-up, and illogically wired
12-15-2021, 06:54 PM
#6
New Member
Thread Starter
It's a VSport so I have the ATS-V engine and the CTS body. I can't make traction with my mods now at 60+ mph 
I have kids to haul at times and limited parking so I have to choose my battles. The Hankook V12 comes up a lot and I had ran them as well and didn't care for them. Can't remember why on that one, but a Kumho Ectsa ES110? I ran that was a crowd favorite quickly became way to loud on the street. I have liked the Cooper line up (RS3-S and RS3-G1) when on a side car.
I have kids to haul at times and limited parking so I have to choose my battles. The Hankook V12 comes up a lot and I had ran them as well and didn't care for them. Can't remember why on that one, but a Kumho Ectsa ES110? I ran that was a crowd favorite quickly became way to loud on the street. I have liked the Cooper line up (RS3-S and RS3-G1) when on a side car.
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12-15-2021, 08:43 PM
#8
350Z/370Z Tech Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
Mic and I have differening views but I rarely see coil packs go out or fail - but anything is possible.
There is a test sequence in the Factory Service Manual that has how to test them.
Make sure you dont criss-cross plugs 4 and 6, they are very easily mixed-up, and illogically wired
There is a test sequence in the Factory Service Manual that has how to test them.
Make sure you dont criss-cross plugs 4 and 6, they are very easily mixed-up, and illogically wired
I did test all of my coil packs afterwards and sure enough, the only bad one was cylinder 4 so have five good ones laying around here somewhere.
Point: shid breaks, I don’t believe in BandAids. 😆
Last edited by MicVelo; 12-16-2021 at 10:24 AM.
12-16-2021, 09:37 AM
#9
In terms of tires. I'm a big fan of Michelin Pilot Super Sports. An excellent summer tire with pretty solid wet weather performance. I also love that these tires incorporate a nice overhang/lip that gives some added protection from curb rash. The Z33s use iridium spark plugs, these last a very long time, but at 130K, it's time for a replacement. New coils is also a good idea. Couldn't hurt to run some BG44K through the fuel system.
Other things to consider as you get the car sorted.
1) Clutch master & slave cylinder replacements or fluid flush at a minimum.
2) Check compression rod bushings and other suspension related bushings (especially the rear differential fluid filled bushing!)
3) Check shocks/struts. Not sure if they are original or aftermarket at 130K, but the OEM struts fail around 50-60K.
4) Check valve covers for oil leaks and replace. The spark plug tube seals are not serviceable, Nissan recommends all new valve covers. There are workarounds, but they can be quite messy (not recommended).
5) Monitor the oil levels regularly for the 1st year of ownership (or the first few oil changes). It's normal for these DE engines to consume a little bit of oil (0.5qt~0.75qt) between changes. More than that requires attention/awareness.
6) Coolant flush (especially if you have no history on when it was last serviced, if ever).
7) Inspect radiator or consider replacing it as preventative maintenance. The plastic endcaps are known to crack/fail from age (heat cycles) and becoming brittle.
8) Check radiator hoses and replace if needed.
9) Check/replace the PCV valve (super cheap, super easy, totally worth doing.)
I'm sure there's plenty of other things I'm missing. But that's a good list to get started with. I specifically left out upgrades and aftermarket mods since road-worthiness appears to be the priority over performance and added costs.
Cheers!
-Icer
Other things to consider as you get the car sorted.
1) Clutch master & slave cylinder replacements or fluid flush at a minimum.
2) Check compression rod bushings and other suspension related bushings (especially the rear differential fluid filled bushing!)
3) Check shocks/struts. Not sure if they are original or aftermarket at 130K, but the OEM struts fail around 50-60K.
4) Check valve covers for oil leaks and replace. The spark plug tube seals are not serviceable, Nissan recommends all new valve covers. There are workarounds, but they can be quite messy (not recommended).
5) Monitor the oil levels regularly for the 1st year of ownership (or the first few oil changes). It's normal for these DE engines to consume a little bit of oil (0.5qt~0.75qt) between changes. More than that requires attention/awareness.
6) Coolant flush (especially if you have no history on when it was last serviced, if ever).
7) Inspect radiator or consider replacing it as preventative maintenance. The plastic endcaps are known to crack/fail from age (heat cycles) and becoming brittle.
8) Check radiator hoses and replace if needed.
9) Check/replace the PCV valve (super cheap, super easy, totally worth doing.)
I'm sure there's plenty of other things I'm missing. But that's a good list to get started with. I specifically left out upgrades and aftermarket mods since road-worthiness appears to be the priority over performance and added costs.
Cheers!
-Icer
12-17-2021, 06:39 PM
#10
New Member
Thread Starter
Ordered up the ruth. plugs and an OEM PCV valve. Going to follow the coil pack test with the engine on to see if any cylinders show an issue. The plugs were definitely old. The suspension seems ok. Going to go through the rest of the work.
01-05-2022, 12:58 PM
#11
Thanks for the advice guys, I recently bought 350, all information is useful for me. Yesterday in the garage I decided to do my grandfather's Silverado. It was hard for him to wind up in frosty weather. I searched for the reason for a long time, tried everything, and even warmed up the fuel, but everything turned out to be much simpler. There was no spark in the candle. On this site https://davesoilchange.com/spark-plugs-for-4-3-vortec/ I found the best spark plugs for 4.3 chevy. The problem was solved. Now I ride my grandfather's car without any problems
Last edited by LarryK; 01-10-2022 at 12:26 AM.
01-06-2022, 12:20 PM
#12
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Thread Starter
It appears the shocks were changed once before but the rears are about due...Firestone said the rest of the suspension didn't look bad but the rotors and pads should be done (they said calipers as well, but that's firestone for you).
The Firehawk Indy 500's changed the car totally my son said. Car is smooth, quiet and just feels aggressive (his words) in corners and the steering wheel feels so connected now.
I picked up the Hotchkiss TVS Stage 1 kit as a surprise (Hotchkiss Sport Springs and front/rear sways). TireRack has it on closeout for less than the cost of the sway bars alone. I know some have said the springs are heavy, but I like them because they aren't a crazy lower and are not terribly higher rates than stock, plus they are linear which I think my son will like for the way he likes to drive.
I will look into strut/shocks in the next 6 months for him.
I will have the other recommended items checked. Firestone recommended an engine detail first since the oil, power steering pump and other fluids were changed recently so there are oil deposits that may not be real leaks. They said that would be the easiest way to start off and it could use a good cleaning anyway.
The Firehawk Indy 500's changed the car totally my son said. Car is smooth, quiet and just feels aggressive (his words) in corners and the steering wheel feels so connected now.
I picked up the Hotchkiss TVS Stage 1 kit as a surprise (Hotchkiss Sport Springs and front/rear sways). TireRack has it on closeout for less than the cost of the sway bars alone. I know some have said the springs are heavy, but I like them because they aren't a crazy lower and are not terribly higher rates than stock, plus they are linear which I think my son will like for the way he likes to drive.
I will look into strut/shocks in the next 6 months for him.
I will have the other recommended items checked. Firestone recommended an engine detail first since the oil, power steering pump and other fluids were changed recently so there are oil deposits that may not be real leaks. They said that would be the easiest way to start off and it could use a good cleaning anyway.
01-17-2022, 04:33 PM
#14
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Thread Starter
I may do all his coils as at 140k now they are probably about to die. I am planing the crank and cam position sensors too along with some other non-performance stuff to get the car up to snuff.
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