Head unit install questions
Alright, I'm sure this has been asked but I spent about 2 hours on here last night searching and reading this area to try and find it but I have had no luck. Well onto the questions. I am going to install a eclipse dvd/navi unit into my new acquired 350z and it currently has the terrible bose stereo. When installing this unit I am going to replace the speakers with components as well. Is there a special harness I need because of the current bose setup besides the normal harness you need to install any stereo? Will the stock doo-doo subwoofer still work without the factory headunit? If I install the head unit and the speakers will there need to be any special wiring to bypass the factory amp or can I just tap off of the existing wires? I am unsure which route I will pursue with the subwoofer yet as I don't really want to take up more of the already small amount of space in the rear hatch area. I am a new member here but not new to nissans or to forums. Thanks for you patience and your help.
no just use the harness that you suppose to use and hook it up plus the 12 volt for the amp, if that makes sense????? its that since your change the speakers you might want to bypass the amp to the speakers. but that means you would have to rewire everything, if this is just a temp setup its fine, but if your serious start looking for an amp that is adequate to do the job at least to be happy
When you say rewire everything you mean I'd have to run all new wires to the doors to bypass the OEM amp? I definately don't want to use the OEM amp to power the speakers and I believe I will be changing out the factory subwoofer as well. What is necessary to get around using the factory amp?
yes thats what i mean, get 100ft roll and rewire it, but if your going to drop in new components get and amp also and your all set. and just to give you head room get 14 g wire and 12g for the sub. it all depends on what your going to power but thats about it.
That’s a good question:
I did what I am with Z recommends…
…but really wasn’t sure if it was necessary. I guess it makes sense to improve the wiring when upgrading the components. I honestly don’t know if that provides better sound (never ran a comparison).
I am curious if better wiring makes a significant difference.
--Spike
Originally Posted by frontier2k1
When you say rewire everything you mean I'd have to run all new wires to the doors to bypass the OEM amp? I definately don't want to use the OEM amp to power the speakers and I believe I will be changing out the factory subwoofer as well. What is necessary to get around using the factory amp?
Originally Posted by I am with Z
yes thats what i mean, get 100ft roll and rewire it, but if your going to drop in new components get and amp also and your all set. and just to give you head room get 14 g wire and 12g for the sub. it all depends on what your going to power but thats about it.
I am curious if better wiring makes a significant difference.
--Spike
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Originally Posted by Spike100
That’s a good question:
I did what I am with Z recommends…
…but really wasn’t sure if it was necessary. I guess it makes sense to improve the wiring when upgrading the components. I honestly don’t know if that provides better sound (never ran a comparison).
I am curious if better wiring makes a significant difference.
--Spike
I did what I am with Z recommends…
…but really wasn’t sure if it was necessary. I guess it makes sense to improve the wiring when upgrading the components. I honestly don’t know if that provides better sound (never ran a comparison).
I am curious if better wiring makes a significant difference.
--Spike
example: 18 g powering say 90 watts rms is roughly 27 volts max ( you can calculate that one i did that in my head
compared to a 14g which is a little bit overkill but well do the job.
its like saying put a 700hp turbo on our stock block without a build. when you don't want to upgrade everything else in your install... well
English… Do you speak it?
Just kidding
(it’s a line from Pulp Fiction), but it is a little difficult making sense from your message. What I’m getting from your message is 18-gauge wire is too small, and 14-gauge wire is overkill. You didn’t say this, but I guess that would make 16-gauge just right (at least for the speakers).
When I pulled the cheap Nissan components, I noticed the wiring looked to be 18-gauge (I didn’t measure it though). I replaced the speaker wiring with 16-gauge and used 14-gauge to connect the other components. I have an external amp but not a SubW.
--Spike
Just kidding
(it’s a line from Pulp Fiction), but it is a little difficult making sense from your message. What I’m getting from your message is 18-gauge wire is too small, and 14-gauge wire is overkill. You didn’t say this, but I guess that would make 16-gauge just right (at least for the speakers).When I pulled the cheap Nissan components, I noticed the wiring looked to be 18-gauge (I didn’t measure it though). I replaced the speaker wiring with 16-gauge and used 14-gauge to connect the other components. I have an external amp but not a SubW.
--Spike
Originally Posted by Spike100
English… Do you speak it?
Just kidding
(it’s a line from Pulp Fiction), but it is a little difficult making sense from your message. What I’m getting from your message is 18-gauge wire is too small, and 14-gauge wire is overkill. You didn’t say this, but I guess that would make 16-gauge just right (at least for the speakers).
When I pulled the cheap Nissan components, I noticed the wiring looked to be 18-gauge (I didn’t measure it though). I replaced the speaker wiring with 16-gauge and used 14-gauge to connect the other components. I have an external amp but not a SubW.
--Spike
Just kidding
(it’s a line from Pulp Fiction), but it is a little difficult making sense from your message. What I’m getting from your message is 18-gauge wire is too small, and 14-gauge wire is overkill. You didn’t say this, but I guess that would make 16-gauge just right (at least for the speakers).When I pulled the cheap Nissan components, I noticed the wiring looked to be 18-gauge (I didn’t measure it though). I replaced the speaker wiring with 16-gauge and used 14-gauge to connect the other components. I have an external amp but not a SubW.
--Spike
like i went from 60watt to 140 watt rms components,lol
I would not mess with any of the stock stuff. IMO, bypass everything. There are some great tutorials on how to run after market speaker wires through the connectors in the doors for a nice clean look.
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