how goes it? long time reader first post


here is the story..

Went to replace my Bose sub with an aftermarket sub at the car audio shop. Originally with a 8ohm but found to be a 2ohm sub, so he said.. well he put a different sub woofer in the stock location, after a custom bracket cause the stock was oversize fit. When all was said and done got in the car cranked up some KORN and was disappointed! there was LESS bass!

I guess he put a powerful sub (JL) in there cause he said if I want more base I would need to change the amp. my question is can i replace just the Bose sub amp with a aftermarket one?

 

NOt following 100% but your best bet is to replace the entire bose amp/sub setup with aftermarkets that will work together. Depending on the voice coil configuration, your JL is likely a dual Voice Coil sub with two 4 Ohm coils. You could wire them in Series to the stock amp and the amp will see an 8 oohm load (if the stock sub is 8 ohms). Otherwise you would have to wire the coils in parallel and buy an aftermarket amp that will support a 2 Ohm mono load.

Hope this helps. Welcome to the forums.

 

IIRC the stock Bose subwoofer is an open air design, meaning doesn't need a "box." Did the shop replace your sub with a JL open air sub, or one of the standard type? If the latter is the case, and the sub was just mounted in the stock Bose location, that's probably why it doesn't sound right, since it doesn't have a proper enclosure.

TK

 

I believe most people don't bother trying to use any of the stock Bose components when upgrading.

Actual subs get mounted in either corner enclosures, strut bar enclosures or in the spare tire well area. Amp can be mounted in the cubby behind the driver's seat where the bose sub normally is, on the back of a strut bar enclosure or in the spare tire well.

 

well i looked at the sub. the replaced it with a "total mobile audio" (a JL company) sub model # T10D4P dual voice coil.

umm i dont think this is a free air sub. says it's "power handling" is rated for 150w. Is the bose amp strong enough to push this? I might just get a new amp and have the shop install it wiht a free air sub.. Im going there on monday this sucks!

 

ur out your mind if you tryin to push a jl sub with that bose stock amp. If you really want to put a sub in the stock location. Get the wicked cas box that goes there put 1 10"w3 and get a jl audio 250/1 or 300/1. And it will sound decent. But all the stuff i read subs just sound like crap in that location. Just get a zenclosure 2 10" box get jl 500/1 and put 2 10" w3s.

 

No. The stock BOSE amp can't power anything well other than the stock sub or an extremely low power speaker. I tried driving a 300watt 10" with it, barely anything. Tried to drive a 100w 10" speaker, no bass whatsoever.

 

I have been in this same boat with other cars before. Try to save some cash by just "upgrading" the stock components. Trust me. It will be much cheaper to buy all of your components and replace the whole thing rather than trying to skrimp. You will end up replacing components two or three times because youvare not happy with them. My advice to people these days when it comes to car stereos is this: if you are not willing to put down the cash to go all the way, then don't even bother. Keep it stock.

 

Look here:

https://my350z.com/forum/audio-and-video/310630-anyone-keep-their-bose-head-unit-but-add-amp.html

 

cool beans thanks guys....well im getting the sub placed in the back corner of the hatch with a custom box and a new amp to power the jl sub...and the blose amp will power my mids....do you guys know of any replacement component and or 2 way speakers that will work with the bose amp system?

 

whats the ohms for the factory bose speaker? i know the sub is 2ohms